tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-53628365717234464242024-03-13T03:41:51.229-07:00Dun on the RoadA travellers exchange of ideas, inspiration, and advice.Unknownnoreply@blogger.comBlogger19125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5362836571723446424.post-39502326687944994652015-06-07T12:42:00.002-07:002015-06-08T00:16:54.694-07:00Balkan Road Trip June 6 - Bosnia Herzegovina<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><b><i>June 6, 2015 Cacak Serbia to Sarajevo, BiH</i></b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">The drive was amazing --- along a brilliant green river (reminded me of the train up to Prince George, Seton Lake area), gorges, and windy roads all the way.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Just before the border I came to Drvengrad, a movie set which I could see most of from the road driving by. There were a few tour buses there --- first I've seen on this trip, so I guess it's popular.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">I crossed the border near Visegrad, BiH. Serbia charged an environment fee upon leaving, just a small amount. The BiH guard as for the green card which was in my folder from the rental company (first time I had to produce that). </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">No exchange kiosks at the border but I had changed some in ????</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Visegrad has a 10 arch bridge (bombed to bits and rebuilt). Home of Nobel Prize winner for a book called Bridge at Drina (?). I saw it from the car window as the road wound back and forth so I had several views from both sides of the river, from a distance and very close. There is no access to it, just plywood and fences falling down.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">The approach to Sarajevo coming out of the mountains is spectacular and soon you are right in the city. Fairly easy to find the hotel with Garmin and phone app. Hotel Halvat is in the old city, Muslim part, with Moorish style, mosques, etc. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">It was very exciting actually as the pope was visiting and helicopters were hovering. I walked over to the cathedral after parking the car in an nearby parking lot, changing some money at nearby FX shops. The town was full of police security and none of the outdoor cafes had chairs and tables out, but as the pope was leaving, they started setting up. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">I had carafe of white wine and a cold plate --- beef proscuitto and 3 kinds of cheese and green olives. All delicious. Except one cheese had gone mouldy and the mould cut off, but it was quite strongly evident.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">My hotel was simple but everything worked. They only had the room for one night but arranged for me to move to a nearby hotel next day for two more nights.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><b><i>June 7, 2015, Sarajevo</i></b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">This was a fabulous day. The hotel had recommended a free city tour at 10 am so I went to the Cathedral area at the time. I very nice young man walked me all over (I was the only one) and it was really excellent. He was an economist so it was a very good conversation. I tipped him well. Then arranged for a trip to the Tunnel Museum at 3 pm.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Lunch was a pide and coke -- not very good at all. Changed more money and paid for 2 more days parking. Moved to the new hotel. The rooms have little kitchenettes. No table or couch, just minimal cooking facilities, but almost no equipment, no dish soap or dish towel. But great AC and after persistent gentle complaining, WIFI was excellent (wires jiggled, reset)</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">The guide picked me up at 3 pm and drove me and 2 Brazilian tourists out to the airport and gave us the tour. Soooo interesting. The UN would have shut down the tunnel - guide said Serbias pay the UN a lot of money ??. Learned a lot about the smudging and who became rich. The smugglers paid the Bosnian army $50,000 for 8 hours use of the tunnel. Our guide was in the siege (1000 days) as a 6 year old, (deaf in one ear from the shelling), and remembers the food aid (cans from 1962, war rations from Viet Nam war, one meal for 4 people for 1 week). 12000 people died probably more. We saw a short film on the siege and the tunnel and toured a small section of tunnel. Cigs, gas, and alcohol were not allowed through the tunnel. Food was really expensive during the siege. Smuggled food was sold for a fortune. None of the smugglers who got rich were ever prosecuted. The UN (and hence Canadian peace keepers) are not popular here, so I now do not mention that Canadians were here any more. There were a few small groups of English speaking tourists with guides. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">The first time I have seen anybody taking pictures for ages (other than kids in a cafe yesterday) and having to stay out of the way of people's photos and getting flash going off in small spaces in my eyes. It sure changes the experience. Instead of taking the opportunity to talk to the guide and ask questions, they are taking pictures of each other in front of things, and later wondering what it is they saw.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">We also met the man who owned the house where the tunnel started and was a truck driver bringing the supplies. What a privilege. Had a rakia (home made) with him and bought a little book from his tiny little little shop. He was never recognized at all for his work and risk to facilitate the tunnel and keep Sarajevo alive.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Finally got my WIFI at the hotel working --- 3rd floor needed a reboot and wires reconnected. Went for a walk to find dinner. The town is so alive, with crowds of people and dozens of cafes and restaurants. Talked to a young fellow in a book store and bought a book. Had a coffee and pastry. Went for a long walk around town and found where I should have gone. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">One of the best days of the trip.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">June 8, 2015, Sarajevo.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"> </span>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5362836571723446424.post-86239284428474984152015-06-06T01:06:00.001-07:002015-06-08T00:19:49.386-07:00Balkan Road Trip June 4-6 Serbia<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">In Sofia, I decided to skip a side trip to Skopje (Macedonia) as I would have had to return to Bulgaria to get back to Serbia, and head for Montenegro via Serbia. I have to avoid Kosovo with the rental car as it is on the list of no-go countries. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">June 4, Sofia, Bulgaria to Nis, Serbia</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Leaving Sofia was very easy. However, the Garmin is out-of-date and there are many one-way streets and roundabouts not in the maps. The roads were good and the scenery marvellous.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">The border crossing was easy, except that the border guard kept letting her buddies go ahead of me. What a b….! There was a fight to shove in ahead of others. What is going on? There are only about 5 cars/trucks and we have to fight to be first? </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">No vignette is required for Serbia, the crossing was smooth I changed a few Euros at the border from a selection of exchange kiosks. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">I planned an easy drive the first day, and reserved a hotel in Nis. What a pleasant surprise. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Before heading into the centre, I visited the Roman imperial villa (Emperor Constantine's villa) of Mediana before I went into the city of Nis. It was "closed" for renovations but there was a guy from the museum explaining things with help of very good "tables" (a sheaf of very large posters with high quality diagrams. Unfortunately, the mosaics are not open and they are rebuilding walls in a dreadful way. It is a huge and interesting site, so hopefully, they can make it great one day. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">I arrived in Nis centre, but couldn't find the hotel using either phone app or Garmin (hotel too new), but eventually using the phone as a telephone for once, I got there. Hotel staff tried to come and meet me --- very nice. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">The Hotel Eter is extremely modern designer boutique style. Staff are really accommodating and changed room from attic style (those high windows are too claustrophobic for me) to window style on request, parked my car, carried my luggage, provided a map, directions, etc.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">I took a short walk and visited the museum a block away. It has a small exhibit of what was found in Mediana (the coolest thing is a metal gate that closed in one section of the villa. There are also photographs and replicas of the 2000-year-old barrel vaulted painted tombs destroyed by construction of the Benetton factory. They reminded me of the Etruscan tombs in Tarquinia. It's not enough that the ages, and wars have destroyed so much, now the global manufacturing economy has to plunk a factory right there --- no wonder people give up worrying about these things --- it's so futile and painful.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">The town of Nis has a very lively cafe life. There was a great bar and restaurant second down from hotel. Great waiter -- he gave me back my tip! I had a plate of cheese (like Ukrainian cottage cheese) with paprika (peppers) and herbs --- excellent. And a meat dish which I have forgotten. Good beer in the afternoon and very good wine with dinner. Very cheap too.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">There are beggars and the restaurants all just put their garbage in the beautiful park, which is then torn apart by dogs, then sorted in and removed at 4 am, first manually, then by garbage truck. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">June 5, 2015, Nis to Cacak, Serbia</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Cacak was a half way stop to Sarajevo. I didn't want a border crossing at the end of the day. The town was not unpleasant but nothing special. The Hotel Tema Nova was pretty good, a little smoky. My dinner was terrible -- wine gone off and fried breaded meat. There was football and tennis on so waiters were glued to the TV. Left for BosniaHerzegovina next morning.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">I stopped for gas (no OMV's along this route), and filled up. I spied a cevak shop nearby and stopped for coffee and lunch. It was very good and cheap. </span><br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5362836571723446424.post-82899541418320203162015-05-29T23:41:00.002-07:002015-06-06T01:09:00.597-07:00Balkan Road Trip May 29-June 5 Bulgaria<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">May 29, Day 1, Varna, Bulgaria</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">"I am sitting in a terrible dump of a resort on the Black Sea called Varna (supposed to be the best in Bulgaria, but at least the beer is good). As usual they are tearing up everything or it's totally falling apart. The modern part looked great, so I am disappointed in the old part. I was beginning to think Bulgaria was more advanced than Romania. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The drive this morning from Bucharest was interesting. There are no street signs or house numbers in Romania or Bulgaria (very rare), and the Garmin can't keep up in the city so it takes some time to get out of town. The drive to the border was okay, but the border was crazy. Roads all over the place, but no signs, finally got across a big bridge across the Danube (first sight of the Danube since Budapest). </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Anyway, first I had to pay the bridge tax on the Romanian side, then drive all over the place to find the crossing. There were trucks by the 100's lined up on both sides of the border and in huge parking lots (really just in big dirt fields). Of course the bridge is under repair although it is so old, flimsy, and narrow I can't see why. It is very very high and very long and there are lines trucks stuck on it, so it was a little hairy and shaky. Also, only one-way due to everlasting construction. They use red and green table tennis bats in Romania and Bulgaria for the many many one-way roads to indicate who can go (usually, sometimes just a guy waving his arms, or nothing, people just make up the rules). </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Eventually, I got across and to the passport check on Bulgarian side. Was I ever glad to see my favourite OMV gas station with coffee, pastry, WIFI, etc. The drive was great, a nice paved 2-lane highway with very few trucks and even very few cars, so smooth sailing and nice countryside. Oh yes, back to the Danube, my god, industrial with huge coal or nuclear power plants. The river is treated like a garbage dump. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">So catch up on Romania. I loved Romania, very interesting country, and would stay another week at least if I didn't have so much more to do. It is a road trip after all, and an overview. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">So Transylvania is the most interesting because of the German people who lived there for 800 years and then left in 1990 (500,000 Germans or Saxons as they are called left). They were the ones responsible for any prosperity there. There are 250 villages left empty, with gorgeous fortified churches, and lots of houses and farms. The Romanian government took ownership of everything. Romanians and gypsies have been moved in. Still, there are great larger towns there like Sighisoara my favourite. The hotel was owned by a Canadian-Romanian family --- great people. I had fun looking around the cemetery and standing around after church to listen to the Saxon dialect (no Mennonite names, no plautdeetch), except for the name Reimer and some people were saying things like gundach (good day). </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I have also been looking into the Jewish history here in the Balkans. Mostly of course, all dead, but there are synagogues that are museums and give tours and history. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Bucharest was not a great city, all falling down, and museums a mess, mostly closed for renovations. The collections are marvellous and they only show a small amount, but not much English explanation. The art museum is amazing (although the Brukenthal in Sibiu is more interesting). T<span style="font-size: 12pt;">he history museum has an incredible gold horde, and the peasant museum is amazing. The most amazing thing in Bucharest is the Palace of Parliament, the largest office building in the world, and very gorgeous built in the 1980's by the infamous Ceausecu. All marble, they say all the resources of Romania are in that building. I did a tour and the guide was great, provided a lot of extra information. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">I found one good restaurant and ate there 3 times --- Romanian live music every night --- free and fantastic, and good Romanian food and of course good wine. Not a word of English, but we managed.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">I don't know what I'll find in Bulgaria --- not keen on monasteries, but I'll check out Plovdiv --- it has a Roman </span>amphitheatre<span style="font-size: small;">.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">So there's the Balkan Update. Love to all you guys. Bev"</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: 12pt;">May 30-31, Day 2-3, Plovdiv, Bulgaria</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">This is a great little city. Lots to see. The town is situated amidst all sorts of </span>ruins<span style="font-size: small;">, including Roman amphitheatre and more, Dacian fortress, and many restored and open houses of the 19th C. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">My hotel was also pretty good, short walk to town.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">June 1-3, Days 4-6, Sofia, Bulgaria</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Sofia is not very exciting and I never found a great cafe street. However, renting an apartment "Brown Cottage" through booking.com was great. A new experience and met the most wonderful couple Poli and Svetlin. Very convenient to the Mall of Sofia, lovely shops for food, local bar under the vines, German restaurant "Werner" on the corner. Short walk into the centre. Downsides of an apartment -- have to arrange to meet hosts when arriving and leaving. I did this by means of email as I am not comfortable with the phone yet (overcame that in Nix yesterday). It was very modern and even had a washing machine and dishwasher. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">City maps provided/available are not good and I lost the good one I had bought somewhere earlier. No stores in Sofia with decent maps (bought another but no help). I have resorted to using my Samsung Maps feature --- it has more on it and searches are easier.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Poli and Svetlin took me to the mall the first night to find an Apple store and exchange. There was an iCorner and a very nice young guy fixed my "virus" (bad me watching PFTV and accidentally opening something). Then they took me for a beer and snacks. Svetlin speaks good English and is a chatter (both are) so we easily and quickly became great friends.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">The archeology museum in the middle of the city is fantastic, excellent exhibits, and very good interpretation. Thanks to Philip Kendrick from the Algeria tour, I recognized a lot of things --- measurement table, stele, etc. Never did find the other museums --- nothing is labelled and the maps are hopeless. I did see the changing of the guard (right outside the Arch. Museum, and a big noisy protest against the banks. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">I did find a L'Occitane by first googling and then searching --- what a surprise amongst the ordinary shops. There are a few luxury shops like Gucci, but mostly the usual down market local shops.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Interesting, a gypsy guy helped me park and find the apartment, hoping for money, but didn't hang around for it. Poli explained later. There are guys with horses and wagons in the city, they seem to have a business carting away any junk from renovations. I assume these are gypsies too, but hard to tell. One really needs a local guide in these countries.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Random Tips for Driving in Bulgaria:</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">- most things are the same as for Romania. Roads are better and not so many horses and wagons on the roads. Lots of construction</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">- Border crossing - easy but for the confusing roads (see above). You pay a vignette at the border instead of tolls on the roads. It's very cheap and they generally take euros</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">- FX - best to have cash in small bills. I usually try to have euros, and some currency of the country I am leaving and the country I am going into. At each border there are exchange booths, so it's easy to exchange a few euros and change your previous country currency right there, rather than try to find something open upon arrival. I was exchanging euros but am hoarding those now, so I am getting cash out of ATMs</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">- decent maps are scarce of non-existent. The best option is to buy at the gas station, but these maps are in local language, and not great maps for tourists, topography, etc. (same all over the Balkans. The locals seldom know of much less where things are</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">- OMV, my favourite gas station is in Bulgaria (and Serbia)</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">- navigating - my routine is to program the directions to the hotel on the Samsung phone Maps app while on WIFI (at hotel or OMV station). The Samsung seems to have more on it. I do the same with Google maps on my computer. In the car, I plug in the Garmin and program to the city I am going to. It won't program to the hotel until I am right in the city AND the hotel is in the list of Hotels</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">- safety - every where is safe and the car is safe. Don't leave anything in the car. Don't leave money on the table but rather hand directly to the waiter</span><br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5362836571723446424.post-48831430504960846122015-05-29T23:37:00.002-07:002015-06-08T00:42:12.168-07:00Hotels and booking.com<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">I generally travel without booking hotels in advance with a few exceptions. I just like to wander and make up my mind what to do as I travel. I always rent a car when travelling on my own (not in a tour group), so I don't have to worry about arriving in a town at a late hour and then trying to find something. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Sometimes, I just drive to the centre of town or city, park in the square or as near as possible, then walk over to the nearest likely looking hotel and if it's under 100 Euros I take it. Pros --- often find a very good hotel at a lower price.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Sometimes I check Lonely Planet for ideas and then have a place to look for in my price range.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Most often, I use booking.com and book something the day before or morning of. I have my computer with me and WIFI is easy to find. I specify my date, and that I need parking and WIFI, and my price range (under 100 euros), and hotel under type of property. I don't like apartments or hostels. I sort the resulting list by review rating and then by distance from the centre, check out a few likely ones under Facilities for Parking and WIFI. Then read the first 20 or so reviewer comments to make sure there are no warning signs.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">In Western Europe, high 7 and up are good. In Central Europe (Balkans), local tourists rate everything very high, so I check specific comments and nationality of the reviewer and go for high 8's and 9+. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">I don't get too stressed about the price or amenities as a few euros won't bankrupt me and you absolutely cannot tell everything from reviews, price, pictures, or descriptions. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Ideally I like an attractive room, big windows or balcony, view, good mattress and bedding, especially pillows, good lighting (not too dark to read or find something in my suitcase), BBC or CNN in English on the TV, </span><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">handy plugs for charging computer, phone, beside the bed within having to move lamps, and no smoking in or around the hotel, and friendly staff who like talking to guests. But I am okay if the room is</span><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"> clean, has windows that open (not small high up attic windows), AC, very good WIFI in the room, parking on site or close by, and is within walking distance of restaurants, cafes, and museums.</span><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Smoking in or around the hotel is often a problem, a restaurant in the hotel is good and necessary if the hotel is not walking distance from restaurants, and friendly helpful staff (nice to chat with staff about the country, the town, etc.)</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Ideally, the bathroom has nice towels, hot water, a shower that does not flood the bathroom, hair dryer, good lighting, a mirror that is not too far away or high for me to see my face, a shelf to put my toiletries by the sink and in the shower, and a nice bar of soap and/or bath gel.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Things that many hotels, even the more luxurious, commonly get wrong:</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">- hard pillows</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">- no place to put toiletry products next to sink </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">- no shelf in the shower for soap, shampoo, gels, conditioners</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">- no place to hang towels</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">- bad lighting in the bathroom and bedroom</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">- carpet on the floor</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">- the full length mirror located where you cannot stand more than 2 feet away from it</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">- bathroom mirror too high to see my face in or put make up on (I am average height for a woman)</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">- only one plug beside the bed (can't plug in computer and a lamp at the same time)</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">- no English news channel on TV</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">- no fruit or overripe or dried out fruit at breakfast, poor quality coffee and bread, those artificial tasting scrambled eggs, packaged processed butter, spreads, and yogurts, juices that are merely fruit flavoured mixes</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">- no place to hang laundry to dry</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">- loose toilet seat</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">- closet hangers so high that even on tip toes I can barely reach</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">- those small foot pedal garbage cans are a pain to use.</span><br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5362836571723446424.post-67433497493067133512015-05-24T10:47:00.000-07:002015-05-29T23:38:35.198-07:00The Saxon Story in Romania<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">The Saxon story in Romania is so astounding that I just had to copy it here. It's extremely interesting that half million people moved after 800 years? Here's a Guardian article copied below so as not to lose it.</span><br />
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http://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2009/oct/01/romania-saxon-conservation-village<br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Also, a little explanation about the Stollen chests. The bread of the same name is from the same word. It derives from the shape --- Stollen refers to the support, pole, post or prop (also stall and stool). The chests are on legs with poles through so they can be carried. They also have a roof shaped lid that can be locked. </span><br />
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<span class="drop-cap drop-cap--wide" style="background-color: white; box-sizing: border-box; color: #e6711b; display: inline-block; float: left; font-family: 'Guardian Egyptian Web', 'Guardian Text Egyptian Web', Georgia, serif; height: 4.5rem; line-height: 24px; margin-right: 0.3125rem; padding-top: 0.0625rem; text-transform: uppercase;"><span class="drop-cap__inner" style="display: inline-block; font-size: 5.25rem; line-height: 4.25rem; vertical-align: text-top;">B</span></span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Guardian Text Egyptian Web', Georgia, serif; line-height: 24px;">etween the collapse of the Ceausescu regime in December 1989 and the spring of 1990, half a million indigenous so-called "Saxons" fled Romania for West Germany. It was the most astonishing, and little reported, ethnic migration in modern Europe. In the seven towns and 250 villages of Saxon Land in southern Transylvania, no less than 90% of the German-speaking population packed its bags and committed eight centuries of history to memory. They drove west to a country few of them knew, enticed by the notorious "return to the fatherland" speech of the German politician, </span><a class=" u-underline" data-component="in-body-link" data-link-name="in body link" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hans-Dietrich_Genscher" style="-webkit-transition: border-color 0.15s ease-out; background-color: white; border-bottom-color: rgb(220, 220, 220); border-bottom-style: solid; border-bottom-width: 0.0625rem; color: #005689; cursor: pointer; font-family: 'Guardian Text Egyptian Web', Georgia, serif; line-height: 24px; text-decoration: none !important; transition: border-color 0.15s ease-out;" title="Hans-Dietrich Genscher">Hans-Dietrich Genscher</a><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Guardian Text Egyptian Web', Georgia, serif; line-height: 24px;">.</span><br />
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The exodus left behind a deserted landscape the size of Wales, hundreds of square miles of rolling beech woods, bears, lush pastures and wild flowers, once home to the <a class=" u-underline" data-component="in-body-link" data-link-name="in body link" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dracula" style="-webkit-transition: border-color 0.15s ease-out; background-color: transparent; background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial; border-bottom-color: rgb(220, 220, 220); border-bottom-style: solid; border-bottom-width: 0.0625rem; color: #005689; cursor: pointer; text-decoration: none !important; transition: border-color 0.15s ease-out;" title="Dracula">Dracula</a> legend. Across it are dotted medieval grid-planned villages, with Lutheran churches, schools, dignified houses, barns and smallholdings, their customs and exclusivity reminiscent of the Pennsylvania Dutch. For 800 years since being invited by the Magyar kings to form a bulwark against the infidel, the Transylvania Saxons guarded their Germanic tradition. They spoke a High German said to be similar to ancient Luxembourgish. They embraced the Reformation and resisted Ceausescu's concrete communism. All this ended abruptly in 1990.</div>
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While the people have almost all gone, the villages remain, colonised mostly by Romania'sbooming Gypsies. It is estimated that as many as a million may now occupy this part of Transylvania, possibly rendering it one day the only majority-Gypsy province. The result is the most exciting and daunting cultural challenge in<a class=" u-underline" data-component="auto-linked-tag" data-link-name="auto-linked-tag" href="http://www.theguardian.com/world/europe-news" style="-webkit-transition: border-color 0.15s ease-out; background-color: transparent; background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial; border-bottom-color: rgb(220, 220, 220); border-bottom-style: solid; border-bottom-width: 0.0625rem; color: #005689; cursor: pointer; text-decoration: none !important; transition: border-color 0.15s ease-out;">Europe</a>.</div>
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The village of Archita is lost in a Carpathian valley near the 17th-century town of Sighisoara, whose medieval walls and nine towers lie at the heart of Dracula country. The village's fortified church stands like a castle in its midst, encircled by not one but two high walls, with musket holes and archers' galleries intact. It was built to protect the citizens against Tartar raids and still has its ham loft with hooks numbered for each house, an insurance against sudden siege. The interior displays its galleries, Protestant pulpit and baroque canopy. The churchyard is overgrown with unpicked plum and apple trees. From the rickety church tower the geometrical village plan reaches out into the surrounding woods. Wide streets and lime-washed, two-storeyed houses reflect the equal plots allotted to each Saxon family in the middle ages. Records show continuous family tenure from the 13th century to 1990. Just three Saxons remain.</div>
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The 18th-century town hall and school of Archita have fallen into dereliction. Since the families employed few servants there are no poor houses or suburbs. There is no water or sewerage and no tarmac roads. The village well and a few desultory horses and carts are attended by attractive Gypsy youths.</div>
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To the new inhabitants of these villages, the vanished Saxons represent an alien culture. But their ghosts flit round buildings that in most cases are unaltered since being converted from wood to stone in the 17th century. They are like the hill-station residences of British India, holding its genius loci in absentia.Ghosts linger too in the countryside round about, ironically preserved by Ceausescu's order forbidding development beyond the confines of existing settlement. This yielded one of the most effective green policies in Europe, protecting miles of meadow and forest, now vulnerable to exploitation. The roads are already littered with loggers carting away loads of walnut, beech and oak.</div>
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Unesco has designated some of the Saxon churches as world heritage sites, as has the Romanian government, but not the villages. With no money for repairs and no enforcement, such designation carries little weight. There is thus a race to save the most endangered pre-industrial landscape in Europe from poverty-stricken newcomers understandably eager for modernity. One day these villages will be as treasured as those of the Cotswolds, Provence or Umbria, but until then they must pass through the valley of the shadow of possible death.</div>
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The response of the outside world to Saxon Land's plight is uncertain. Money is seeping back. Some departed families have returned, some unhappy in exile, some as so-called "summer Saxons", holidaying in their former homeland and hoping to capitalise on rising property prices.</div>
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I encountered one dedicated young German, Sebastian Bethge, in the dramatic hill village of Apold, labouring alone to restore the church interior with money raised in Berlin and elsewhere. A visiting pastor had just held a Lutheran service for a congregation of nine – four Romanians, three Hungarians and two Germans.</div>
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The EU is bringing infrastructure to some villages, even as it devastates their markets for milk and hops. Unesco has its designations. The <a class=" u-underline" data-component="in-body-link" data-link-name="in body link" href="http://www.transylvaniatrust.ro/" style="-webkit-transition: border-color 0.15s ease-out; background-color: transparent; background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial; border-bottom-color: rgb(220, 220, 220); border-bottom-style: solid; border-bottom-width: 0.0625rem; color: #005689; cursor: pointer; text-decoration: none !important; transition: border-color 0.15s ease-out;" title="Transylvania Trust">Transylvania Trust</a>has restored the castle home of the novelist, <a class=" u-underline" data-component="in-body-link" data-link-name="in body link" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mikl%C3%B3s_B%C3%A1nffy" style="-webkit-transition: border-color 0.15s ease-out; background-color: transparent; background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial; border-bottom-color: rgb(220, 220, 220); border-bottom-style: solid; border-bottom-width: 0.0625rem; color: #005689; cursor: pointer; text-decoration: none !important; transition: border-color 0.15s ease-out;" title="Miklos Banffy">Miklos Banffy</a>, whose Transylvanian Trilogy is so evocative of this region's other, Hungarian, past. Britain's Prince of Wales has bought and restored two Saxon village houses. But most international effort goes on hands-clean "awareness-raising", on drawing up lists, holding conferences and restoring an occasional showcase palace. The most impressive venture is the London-based <a class=" u-underline" data-component="in-body-link" data-link-name="in body link" href="http://www.mihaieminescutrust.org/" style="-webkit-transition: border-color 0.15s ease-out; background-color: transparent; background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial; border-bottom-color: rgb(220, 220, 220); border-bottom-style: solid; border-bottom-width: 0.0625rem; color: #005689; cursor: pointer; text-decoration: none !important; transition: border-color 0.15s ease-out;" title="Mihai Eminescu trust">Mihai Eminescu Trust</a> (Met), chiefly supported by the American Packard foundation. Its "whole village" concept is tailored to Saxon Land, yielding more than 600 projects in the past decade. A leading citizen is engaged in each village to glean what locals – now mostly Romanians and Gypsies – would like restored if money and expertise were available.</div>
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This is exemplary conservation practice. Work is carried out by local contractors, with some 130 craftsmen trained to restore Lutheran and Orthodox churches, schools, houses and barns. Nothing is too small, from patched barn roofs and re-plastered street facades to empty properties converted to guesthouses. Plastic bus shelters and concrete bridges have been replaced in wood.</div>
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A truly minimalist venture had a Gypsy in the village of Floresti asking for, and getting, a tiled roof over an appalling hovel shared with his wife, two horses and a mountain of manure. Virtually next door is a restored Evangelical church, its sun-bathed interior one of the most serene of any church I know.</div>
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In the 13th-century village of Viscri, the Met has undertaken 160 restorations led by its local leader, Caroline Fernolend, winning it the EU's premier conservation award. Sewers were installed and a new kiln built to supply handmade tiles, operated by a local craftsman. The trust is even reinstating apple orchards and relaying a local narrow-gauge railway.</div>
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No such conservation can work against the grain of local consent or in the absence of local skills. Imported from outside, it will stir resentment and obstruction. The root cause of the Saxons' exodus was starvation of the modern benefits of civilisation. These cannot be denied their successors.</div>
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Yet the conservation of town and village cultures across the sweep of Europe proves that ancient and modern can co-exist to the advantage of both. Such is the disregard of the past by other world continents that these survivors will one day be respected, valued and celebrated.</div>
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The Transylvanian Saxons ranked with the Mennonite Amish, the Patagonia Welsh and the Volga Germans among the dislocated tribes of Europe. They lasted a phenomenal eight centuries, leaving intact monuments of a culture distinct and yet integral to European history. If modern European union cannot guard such relics of its diversity it is not worth the name.</div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5362836571723446424.post-54007635594459131342015-05-21T12:02:00.002-07:002015-05-21T12:02:39.131-07:00WIFI on the Road<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">I am getting to expect WIFI everywhere and it is most irritating when it's not available in an airport.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">New York (JFK) in May was awful. I flew in from Toronto and had to wait outside security all day to check-in for a flight to Istanbul. The airport is crammed, no seats, only the poorest quality of fast food and coffee, few plug-in areas for devices were packed, no WIFI. You had to have your own private account. by the month. Even if I had an access card for an airline lounge, I wouldn't be able to get to it as they are all behind security.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Even paying for it is difficult because you have to join or subscribe to things. I couldn't make pay WIFI work in Heathrow in November --- joined the airport network and paid, but it wouldn't let me in. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">I looked into Access card for airport lounges, but I am not sure it will pay off. I will try it sometime though. You still have to pay $27 for access and there is a time limit. sooo.</span>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5362836571723446424.post-44547400212109413102015-05-19T23:42:00.000-07:002015-06-01T00:00:32.828-07:00Balkan Road Trip (May 19-29/15) Romania<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">May 19 - Hunadoara, Romania.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">After leaving Szeged, Hungary, around noon (so hard to get moving, so much to research, ha!), I found a gas station and then got going. I like to start the day with a full tank. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">The Garmin had trouble getting me out of town, so I ended up following signs. Maybe because I programmed in the nearest gas station. Probably better to just find one on the way, trouble is that method is dicey if they are all on the other side of the road. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">The other thing to be dealt with was currency --- use up my Hungarian, save enough for any incidentals, and get some Romanian. I did that in Szeged.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">I crossed through the border into Romania pretty smoothly There are still customs inspections because Romania is not a Schengen country although in the EU. A Schengen country is one of 25 European countries that have abolished border checks and passport requirements for their citizens. Also, this would affect me if I stay more than 90 days anywhere within the Schengen countries --- I'd have to get a long-stay visa. The border officials inspected my passport and car registration and that only took a few minutes. Update: A hotel receptionist told me that Romania is indeed a Schengen country but that Romania requires the vignette only if crossing by car from Hungary.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Take note Lonely Planet -- Immediately after the border, there is a ramshackle little booth and two huge signs with charts (that look pretty official) about buying a vignette (road tax). I am not exactly sure what the vignette means but I have heard about it and was penalized for not having one once in Czech Republic. All signs were in Romanian of course and the lady in the booth spoke not a word of anything but Romanian, but I got my 7-day vignette for 3 euroes or RON I forget which (RON or lei is the Romanian currency). I wanted a 30-day vignette as the country is pretty interesting and big, but her computer would only allow her to sell 7-day vignettes. She said I could buy extensions at a Tankstelle (German for gas station). My amazing language skills got me through that. She spoke Romanian and I just somehow understood her. Nothing said about a vignette for Romania in LP, but there is a good explanation of Schengen countries and it does mention the vignette requirement when you cross into Bulgaria.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Roads in Romania are paved, probably the main difference since 1973, when I last passed through this country. As I remembered, the people are more "can do", and they cheerfully give you change for big bills and waive the toilet fee. The villages and towns are rundown and the houses the same as they were in 1900. I had a very good coffee and a kitkat for lunch at a gas station (OMV chain only, other gas station serve the horrible powder). I also bought some cherries, strawberries, and tomatoes beside the road (they have plastic bags now, but the fruit including strawberries is just in a huge heap. Tomatoes look good but are soso.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Driving was okay, but very disjointed, with little stretches of highway, lots of hilly narrow roads, lots of trucks, etc. There are no shoulders (either gravel or paved) on the roads and sometimes there is a horse and wagon, semi-truck and a car all tandem passing. Also a pedestrian or cyclist. I saw people stooking hay by hand as well. The stooks are constructed around a couple of tall poles and the hay is formed into a curly top not. Very cute and crazy. Lots of sheep herds. Farms and forests.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">I drove all the way to Hunadoara the first day with intension of seeing the Roman city of Sarmeigetusa Ulpia Traiania nearby. Unfortunately Garmin took me the long way around. In future, I must also check the map with the Garmin directions to make sure the route is correct. I don't know how you check that on Garmin or how you change the route like you can with Google maps. All this is sooooo easy with Google maps. Anyway, I researched a bit more online and found out there are two ruins about 40 km apart --- one Roman and one Dacian, so I am opting for the older Dacian one. Sarmizegetusa Ulpia Traiania is the Roman one and Sarmizegetusa Regia is the Dacian. So get that straight and also the spelling if you ever want Google and Garmin to have a chance. It is not easy to research without really good guidebooks.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">I booked a hotel on booking.com once I arrived in Hunadoara (just parked outside a hotel on the outskirts and used their free WIFI). The Corvini-Ana after the nearby Castle. It is something else. First the town, extremely industrial or was, the factories are very old and mostly falling down. Nuclear power plant (can't imagine what state of repair that's in). There's an Assa Abloy plant here too (hey Meg). The hotel is old and dusty, plus allows smoking in the lobby and dining room (everywhere in Romania). Very dusty and dirty carpets but good bathroom, good WIFI, free parking on the street, clean bed but uncomfortable ---- perfectly adequate and the price (23 euros) brings the hotel average down nicely. So much for the plan to splurge tonight. The food is the frozen and deep fried variety (even here). Local beer not great. The breakfast not worth the 4 euros. Coffee bad (no 3 cups today). Went for walk up to the castle but not motivated to enter. Very nice on the outside though.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">May 20, Wed. Alba Iulia, Romania</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">First thing in the morning, I drove up the mountain to Sarmizegetusa Regia. The last 18 km of the road is dirt and has many potholes. That section takes about an hour. On the way back down I was very glad of the manual transmission, as it is easy to coast down in first gear and not have to use the brake. The site itself is lovely, quiet, only a few people walking around. Good interpretive signs. A guard and ticket taker. The site has a lot of interesting walls, temples, altars, pillars (very large diameter rounds -- about 6 feet in diameter and 10 inches thick, convex both sides), upright stone circles (like stonehenge but different shapes), paved roads, etc. Two kinds of stone, a very black stone, and a light sandstone. The Romans pillaged it extensively for building stones. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Then on to Alba Iulia, former Roman garrison, with later fortress built on top. Very much restored and beautified with a luxury hotel inside. I stayed there (Medieval Inn). Walked into town for a beer --- Stella this time, sick of the eastern European beer. Very hip bar. Dinner in the hotel was mediocre but the wine was good. Would not stay in this hotel again --- I hate those hot rooms on the top floor with small high windows. I had the fan on all the time. The hotel itself was extremely beautiful. The breakfast wasn't great and the restaurant was average. Very little English spoken.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">May 21, Thursday, Seghetu Marmatei, Romania.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">I left Alba Iulia early and went to the gas station and exchange bank (BRD) to change Euros into Lei. The hotel was pretty fancy but not prepared to take cash unless I had exact change. I paid in Euros no problem with the published rate. The bank rate was very slightly less.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">On down the road north to Seghetu Marmatei near the Ukraine border. Very quickly came to Auild, which has a great fortified Saxon church. Had a look. The town seems very nice and lively with restaurants and lots of people about. Kept driving and stopped at an OVM for sandwich and coffee. Tried WIFI but could not get on. After Baie Mare, the world changed drastically. Back to 1900. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">The Hotel Gradina Morii by the river was nice enough (except for the breakfast) but it was my first and only experience so far with not getting the Guaranteed Best Price. The staff who booked me in gave me their regular posted rate for a single of 170 (less than the booking.com price) but the next morning the woman on duty changed it back to the higher price. So, something to watch for. Usually it is cheaper on booking.com at least less than the posted rate. You might get a better rate just walking in especially if you are local.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Here's what I wrote to the family:</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">"</span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 16px;">After Budapest (falling down, but great museums) and Szeged (wine festival), I drove into Romania, which is very backward. It sounds mundane, but it's been quite a trip. I roamed around for a few days, saw a pre-Roman Dacian fortress and worship sight (kind of like a stone henge and Mayan temple combined) way way up in the mountains. I had to drive about 50 km and the last 18 km on a dirt road with a million pot holes. Good thing I am an amazing driver.</span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 16px;"> </span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 16px;"> </span><br />
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After one night in a kind of Transylvania spooky old hotel by a river next to a castle not too far from the nuclear reactor and falling down soviet era factories for 25 euros (nice but very dusty and old), I decided to splurge and stayed in a luxury hotel (s<span style="font-size: 12pt;">till only 80 euros)</span><span style="font-size: 12pt;"> inside a restored fortress the next night. Very posh, and I walked into town and had a Stella in a trendy bar (sick of the eastern European beer). Both hotels included breakfast, free parking, and strong WIFI. </span></div>
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Today I headed north to the Ukrainian border where it is like 100 years ago. I am nearly to my destination now, and have stopped for "coffee" and to book a hotel online. This northern area is through the looking glass. Normally, the drivers here obey the speed limits meticulously because there are cops everywhere. But in this area, they are nuts. There is one highway in Romania with paved verges so they use the verge as another lane. At one point, one car passed another car passing the first car (3 cars and a semi abreast on the 2 lane highway). Also, somebody passed me on the right and left at the same time. On those paved edges, there can be horses and wagons, parked cars, old people, people wobbling on bicycles (drunk?), so again, good thing I am sooo skilled. </div>
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Just when I thought that was enough excitement, I passed a funeral procession which of course, also had to walk on the highway. The coffin was on an old wagon with horse pulling it. Every body walking ahead and behind. The coffin was covered in spruce bows and flowers and they were carrying big bows and flowers and crosses (kind of Christmassy). Everybody dressed in black. I am keeping my eyes opne for gypsies (Roma) but so far only one lady last night in the town. </div>
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Just for variety, I visited a fortified Saxon church this morning. Who knew there were Saxon settlements here in the 1400's. Another chapter of history to check out. The museums explain a lot, so I try to make time for those. "</div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">May 22, Friday, Sighisoara, Romania.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Long drive from the north, through very poor country. Not a great first impression of Sighisoara but I now love it. I was exhausted from too much driving, so need a break from it all. No crazy about Villa Franka at all. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">I had a great dinner at the Alte Post, German restaurant, a huge smoked pork hock with beans. Breakfast the next morning was nauseating and could not get the smell out of my nose for 24 hours. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">May 23, Saturday, Sighisoara, Romania.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Needed a longer break, so I am staying here. I found a better hotel --- Central Park within a block of Villa Franka, same price and 100 x better. The owner Mihai was extremely helpful and gave me a nice room with full windows and balcony. Booking.com said they were full, but walk-in got me a room (in the morning). I love this hotel. Free parking courtyard, lovely interior patio, very nice helpful staff. For only 65 Euros a night. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Took a short drive through the country side looking at Saxon fortified churches. Very lovely and interesting. Some of the villages esp. off the main road are incredibly poor and the dirt road just peters out in a mud hole. Farming is done with hand made hoes and rakes, horses and old wooden wagons in much of Romania.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">I had a salad for lunch at the hotel and then just whiled away the afternoon and evening in the hotel. I needed rest. Great WIFI, did laundry, and slept.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">May 24, Sunday, Sighisoara, Romania</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Woke up to a nice fresh day. Hotel Breakfast was quite good. Coffee average, even had orange, and eggs and bacon were hot, bread not so good but fresh croissants. Before 9 am, I walked up through the town to the Saxon graveyard to see if there were any names similar to the Mennonites (none, although Reimer is in the list of Saxon names). The town is a lot nicer than I thought. I waited until the church opened at 10 am, well worth the wait. The fellow in charge is half Saxon and was very informative. Nearly all the Saxons (Germans) left. Saxons came from Franconia, their dialect is apparently Luxembourgish. The few Saxons (Sash as they are known here) came starting in the 12th C. in order to defend the borders. They built fortified churches, farms, etc. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">There are a number of these "Bradeni" (after the church where about 100 were found) or "Stollen" chests at the church (also called Vorrats Truhen which means hoard/reserve/stash chest/trunk). They were used to store dry goods such as flour, dried fruit, etc. Each family had one in the loft of the church in case they were attacked. They also stored "lard" which was a side of pig in the church and one tower and each family could slice off one week's worth from their "lard" after church each Sunday. The lards were hung on numbered hooks, one per family. The church guide tipped me to the Monastery church where I could hear the Sash dialect, so I went there to wait until 11 am and church was out. The remaining Sash people here --- very well dressed and nice cars came out and indeed spoke their dialect. Wow!. The Sash converted from Catholism to Evangelical Lutheran in 1544. German is commonly spoken here. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">The old town was very busy and full of tourists, including a great number of Israelis, including a lot of elderly ladies in long dresses and kerchiefs. After my travels to date, it is hard to get used to the noise and crassness of tourists and locals alike. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Today I met an older couple from Seattle travelling by train through the Balkans. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">I had lunch at the Alte Post today --- beer, sausage, and cabbage. I am really enjoying the cabbage. Tomatoes should be good but are disappointing. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">May 25, Sibiu, Romania, Exclusive Hotel</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">I left Sighisoara but could have stayed longer and really enjoyed the Central Park Hotel. I met a nice Canadian family living in Budapest and was invited to stay with them anytime. That would be fabulous as I would like to spend more time there and they are great people.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">I drove to Viscri, another Saxon fortified church, very very old. Lots going on there with restorations, and there are actually tour groups, still only about 8-10 people on the site. Mostly Germans seeking roots. My German is coming is so handy here as many Romanians in this area speak German. Prince Charles has a castle in the area and has restored a few houses. These houses are quite different and have a barn attached at the back. None of the other villages have barns with each house, attached or not. In Russia, these were torn down during collectivization as no individual could own livestock.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">There is a small museum worth looking at for the organization of the villages and the use of "reconciliation" and "case". Each man had to reconcile accounts with the case. There are a lot of old wooden chests, about 2 feet long, which apparently held all the accounts and possibly the money too. The word case is curious --- I am thinking caisse or cache in French meaning a kind of bank or safe place to keep your money. From </span>http://www.etymonline.com :<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"> </span><span style="background-color: #fffbec; font-family: Georgia, Garamond, 'Times New Roman', Times, serif; font-size: 16px;">"receptacle," early 14c., from Anglo-French and Old North French </span><span class="foreign" style="font-family: Georgia, Garamond, 'Times New Roman', Times, serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: italic;">casse</span><span style="background-color: #fffbec; font-family: Georgia, Garamond, 'Times New Roman', Times, serif; font-size: 16px;"> (Old French </span><span class="foreign" style="font-family: Georgia, Garamond, 'Times New Roman', Times, serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: italic;">chasse</span><span style="background-color: #fffbec; font-family: Georgia, Garamond, 'Times New Roman', Times, serif; font-size: 16px;"> "case, reliquary;" Modern French </span><span class="foreign" style="font-family: Georgia, Garamond, 'Times New Roman', Times, serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: italic;">châsse</span><span style="background-color: #fffbec; font-family: Georgia, Garamond, 'Times New Roman', Times, serif; font-size: 16px;">), from Latin </span><span class="foreign" style="font-family: Georgia, Garamond, 'Times New Roman', Times, serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: italic;">capsa</span><span style="background-color: #fffbec; font-family: Georgia, Garamond, 'Times New Roman', Times, serif; font-size: 16px;"> "box, repository" (especially for books), from </span><span class="foreign" style="font-family: Georgia, Garamond, 'Times New Roman', Times, serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: italic;">capere</span><span style="background-color: #fffbec; font-family: Georgia, Garamond, 'Times New Roman', Times, serif; font-size: 16px;"> "to take, hold" (see </span><a class="crossreference" href="http://www.etymonline.com/index.php?term=capable&allowed_in_frame=0" style="color: #800020; font-family: Georgia, Garamond, 'Times New Roman', Times, serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: italic; font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">capable</a><span style="background-color: #fffbec; font-family: Georgia, Garamond, 'Times New Roman', Times, serif; font-size: 16px;">).</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: #fffbec; font-family: Georgia, Garamond, 'Times New Roman', Times, serif; font-size: 16px;">There was a WC in the village and money to be left on honour system, but a woman with two kids stole the money in front of my eyes 6 feet away. They came running over from a house nearby. I don't think they were the caretakers because I didn't leave the full amount, just loose change, and they didn't demand payment. I am told the government is housing gypsies in these empty villages. I also read the German government paid Romania a bounty of $5,000 per capital for any German in about 1990, and the villages emptied within a year. </span><br />
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<span style="background-color: #fffbec; font-family: Georgia, Garamond, 'Times New Roman', Times, serif; font-size: 16px;">After Viscri a long beautiful but tiresome drive across country to Sibiu. Lots more villages and millions more potholes. </span><br />
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<span style="background-color: #fffbec;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, Garamond, Times New Roman, Times, serif;">Arrived in Sibiu. The Garmin not able to find hotels or streets lately, so it is troublesome to fine my hotel. I stopped at my haven OMV gas station and the young man there went to a lot of trouble to find the hotel on his phone and show me. I then checked Google maps on my computer and then tried the Samsung Maps program which found the hotel in seconds and guided me to it. You just need to be on WIFI to start with (OMV always has good WIFI, good coffee, and nice sandwiches and pastry, plus great staff inside and out. I hope Bucharest is better because the Garmin was finding my hotels fine up to Alba Iulia. I also bought another 7 days vignette as mine was expiring May 25. I have been here a week now.</span></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: #fffbec;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, Garamond, Times New Roman, Times, serif;">The Exclusive Hotel in Sibiu is the best one yet in Romania. Almost brand new. Best restaurant, best room, best staff, free parking, great WIF. Faults: sometimes smoke from smokers outdoors and in the bar, but not very bothersome; no BBC on the TV, also okay..</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">So catch up on Romania. I loved Romania, very interesting country, and would stay another week at least if I didn't have so much more to do. It is a road trip after all, and an overview. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">So Transylvania is the most interesting because of the German people who lived there for 800 years and then left in 1990 (500,000 Germans or Saxons as they are called left). They were the ones responsible for any prosperity there. There are 250 villages left empty, with gorgeous fortified churches, and lots of houses and farms. The Romanian government took ownership of everything. Romanians and gypsies have been moved in. Still, there are great larger towns there like Sighisoara my favourite. The hotel was owned by a Canadian-Romanian family --- great people. I had fun looking around the cemetery and standing around after church to listen to the Saxon dialect (no Mennonite names, no plautdeetch), except for the name Reimer and some people were saying things like gundach (good day). </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">I have also been looking into the Jewish history here in the Balkans. Mostly of course, all dead, but there are synagogues that are museums and give tours and history. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Bucharest was not a great city, all falling down, and museums a mess, mostly closed for renovations. The collections are marvellous and they only show a small amount, but not much English explanation. The art museum is amazing (although the Brukenthal in Sibiu is more interesting). T<span style="font-size: 12pt;">he history museum has an incredible gold horde, and the peasant museum is amazing. The most amazing thing in Bucharest is the Palace of Parliament, the largest office building in the world, and very gorgeous built in the 1980's by the infamous Ceausecu. All marble, they say all the resources of Romania are in that building. I did a tour and the guide was great, provided a lot of extra information. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 12pt;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">I found one good restaurant and ate there 3 times --- Romanian live music every night --- free and fantastic, and good Romanian food and of course good wine. Not a word of English, but we managed.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 12pt;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Things seen:</span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">- huge flock of sheep and huge fluffy dirty matted sheep dogs (like a very big English sheep dog) and </span>shepherd<span style="font-size: small;"> with Tyrolian hats</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">- wooden churches with huge wooden steeples</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">- gypsies here and there in the villages and cities</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">- log houses are very common, squared off logs</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">- middle aged fat women with shirt/blouse removed and wearing bra only (due to heat). I remember this from 40 years ago!</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">- bright red metal roofs replacing old red tile roofs in some areas</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">- people on the road sides picking ? nettles I think</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">I don't know what I'll find in Bulgaria --- not keen on monasteries, but I'll check out Plovdiv --- it has a Roman </span>amphitheatre<span style="font-size: small;">.</span></span></div>
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Random Notes on Romania:</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">- coffee - terrible everywhere except OMV gas station chain. Even in the luxury hotels. Best bet is an espresso lungo in a bar and hope they have a good machine</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">- beer - not great. No snacks available when you have a drink. People just drink period. Not unusual to see people drinking at 9 am in cafes. Update: CUIC draft beer is good.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">- tourists - I am the only person other than Romanians everywhere I go. Not even German tourists. Update, lots of foreign tourists in Sighisoara though.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">- language - very little English spoken. Usually none. Update, met several people who could speak good English and were eager to explain and discuss in Sighisoara. German spoken in Saxon area</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">- smoking - everywhere even in restaurants and it often seeps into hotel rooms through hallways and ventilation. It's their country and we were there once, but still worth a comment in my review in hopes that they will gradually further restrict smoking on premises or outside windows and ventilation</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">- WIFI - easy to find in gas stations or even try outside a hotel. Easy to book a hotel somewhere on the road using booking.com. Hotels have WIFI but it's important to verify on booking.com and then also check the comments from reviewers (the non-Balkan travellers) that the WIFI is in the rooms and that it is good</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">- FX - best to either change money in towns right after the border or look for the BRD bank sign. Euros are sometimes acceptable but change will be in LEI. I write down the exchange rates in a handy place for constant reference (e.g. EU to LEI and vv, CAD to LEI and vv). Also, just before I leave the country, I go to an exchange and change any local currency to next country currency, or change some Euros to next country currency). Small bills will often be an issue and some places are still stubborn about making change even in their own currency, although Romania it's not so much an issue. Be prepared for that though and just be persistent. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">- quiet persistence will get you a long way. Any sign of disapproval shuts people down. Speak quietly and a little slowly in very simple English. Act happy, light, and easy going and somewhat low energy. I often got what I wanted after asking a few times in a different way and with a small smile. They are nearly always eager to make you happy so do not be afraid to ask for help or whatever you want. But things change instantly if they think you are not happy. Imagine having to deal with an unhappy tourist speaking loudly and fast in another language even if you are fluent --- very stressful</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">- language - I always start with a smile and hello. If I know hello in the local language, I use that and hello so they know I speak English</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">- gas/rest stops - the OMV stations are by far the best. Clean, nice cafe, usually good WIFI, excellent food, coffee, and service</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">- Garmin - the Garmin GPS is not quite current for the Balkans and I often find new roundabouts or other changes, but it's not usually a problem. The Garmin Text to Voice is not capable of distinguishing numbers, letters, and Roman numerals --- can be confusing at times until I realized that Samantha was actually pronouncing Simeon III as part of the name with eye, eye, eye added on. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Usually invaluable getting in and out of cities and towns, once you make a wrong turn, the Garmin can no longer keep up but I find looking at the tiny map more useful in getting the car back on track once I have made a wrong turn. Also, useful normally plus I use the icon in the top left a lot to make the turns properly and do not make them until you see 0 km on the screen.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Not having much luck finding specific locations such as hotels or streets using it unless the hotel is already listed in the Garmin, but I do eventually find my hotel. I have had to resort to stopped at an OMV in the city outskirts and then using my computer and Samsung phone Maps app, which is like GPS as long as you set up at a WIFI location. Learning to use the add on route function. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">- driving speed - it's very important to drive the speed limit and not pass unless allowed (never in a village). The roads are fairly well marked and the Garmin shows the speed limit for the exact area you are in, and there are usually signs. There are police in most towns and they are often out checking for speeders. The oncoming cars and trucks will often blink to signal police ahead</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">- driving - signs - most signs are international and names spelled out in English or at least in English alphabet but Cyrillic is also common in Bulgaria, so learn a few key letters and become familiar with names of a few towns and cities there</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">- the roads - roads vary from really good to really terrible but all perfectly fine to drive. Just enjoy the drive and do not be in a hurry. Keep alert at all times for strange things on the road and strange moves from cars and trucks, horses and carts, ducks, sheep, sheepdogs, very suddenly the road changing from 2 to 1 lane, children, old people, wobbly cyclists, huge pot holes, construction without warning, somebody waving a red table tennis paddle, police, ambulances. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Never drive in the dark ever. EVER.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Drivers tend to try to pass, so be prepared to move over a little to accommodate several cars abreast more than the road is designed for. For this reason do not stay abreast of trucks for any longer than necessary to pass (or any other vehicles). Do not drive faster than you feel safe driving</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">- the road rules are similar to the rest of Europe and the signs are international</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">- driving style - as in all Europe, stay in the right lane and only move to the passing lane if you are actually passing. Do not feel compelled to pass if you are on a 2-lane highway, but let others pass you, by moving slightly to the left if the car behind you is closing up to pass</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">- trucks - as everywhere in the world, do not drive beside a truck unless you are passing and have a clear pass. Trucks may have to move over fast and you do not want to be in their path. Trucks pass too, and that can get hairy, so watch them for that. Trucks try to stay at one fixed speed so do not cut them off or they will drive right into you, especially on a hill</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">- border crossing - you will need passport and the registration for the vehicle. They will take it away and bring it back within 5-10 minutes. Very polite. Little English spoken or understood, but relaxed little smile, quiet voice, polite nods and gestures get you everywhere</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">- food in hotels - usually not great. The often have processed or low quality food, the breakfast buffet hot food is not kept hot, they have wieners and disgusting scrambled eggs, terrible coffee, no fruit or rotten or dried out fruit. It seems once you are booked in and or they have your cc number, they try to save pennies at your expense. </span>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5362836571723446424.post-58240100618413685412015-05-16T12:58:00.004-07:002015-05-19T23:01:25.014-07:00Balkan Road Trip - Days 3-6 (May 15-19), Slovakia, Budapest & SzegetDriving: I<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"> left Krakow late on Friday morning, May 15, driving about 400 km. and arriving around 6 pm in Budapest. </span><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">I am having no desire to get going early --- I am tired and a little overwhelmed by all the travel detail. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Using the trust Garmin also known as sat nav. or GPS, it was a easy driving out of Krakow and into Budapest. Again, I drove directly to my hotel without a problem. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">But there was a strange hitch along the way. The Garmin directed me on a side trip through tiny country roads --- why --- a short cut, avoiding construction. It was worrying at the time, as the road was barely a road. It was 4 pm by then but I reminded myself I was safe as long as I was in my car.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">One more problem arose with the car --- a warning light went on, and there were some beeps. Of course I was very concerned about what to do --- find a service station, phone Peugot. Finally, this morning I looked up in the manual, but it was in French, and so I translated using my computer online. It turns out to be tire pressure. Hope it's not a flat. Will deal with that when I leave on Monday. </span><br />
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Before I left Krakow, <span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">I had to figure out what funds to exchange to pay my Polish hotel bill, guess what I'd need on the road before the Slovakia border, and change some Euros in florints. I ended. Next challenge, getting gas (diesel) in Poland. Just making the hotel reservation was a big decision, but I think I am getting back to normal.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">After the cantor, I walked over to my parking lot with luggage, programmed my Garmin, and took off. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">I filled up the tank just before the Slovakia border and used my credit card. I saw a Statoil and decided to check it out. Also had a hot dog and coffee. I was in kind of stupor --- still tired and overwhelmed I guess.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Slovakia: The drive through Slovakia was pleasant and the roads are good. There are no motorways between Krakow and Budapest. It's 2 lanes nearly all the way, through every village, town, and city, with many many turns, intersections, cross-walks. The speed limits are low and nobody speeds, not one km over the limit. The country side is really beautiful, small picturesque villages, snow covered mountains and rolling hills in the distance. Small towns and farm lands all the way, kind of alpine with lots of log cabin houses, interesting roofs, lots of heritage looking wooden churches, but alas no time to stop, even to eat or gas up. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Hotel: My Budapest hotel (Benczur) is not in the centre, but it's okay, and only 60 euros plus 13 euros parking. I have been walking a lot and it feels great. Breakfast is okay, and the coffee is much better here in Hungary.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">The first evening I was exhausted but walked into the centre to an area with lots of bars. It didn't work out -- the bar couldn't serve food, so the beer really hit me. Walked back to the hotel in the dark through a very bad area. There is no street lighting in Budapest at night. I ate at the hotel, but that was not great. I had goulash and the dumplings were raw dough, so they brought me a dessert instead which I did not want. Fell asleep immediately. Oh yes, also hit my head pretty hard in the parking lot ducking under the gate. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">The room is really nice, with a little balcony, so next morning, I decided to book 2 more nights on booking.com and got even better rate. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">First on the agenda, find a FX place to change Euros into florints (about 300 florints for on Euro). Then walked all the walk down to the Parliament Buildings and found the Art Nouveau Museum. Very nice, had a coffee and sour cherry cake. Then walked along looking for Art Nouveau. The Gresham (Mariott) Hotel is outstanding. Next went to the Museum of Fine Arts. Outstanding building and exhibits. The buildings is falling apart and is mostly closed with a small exhibit. They are renovating it. The Museum of Fine Arts is also closed for renovations until 2018. I recommend coming in a few years when all these renovations are finished. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Today I found a lovely coffee shop and a fabulous restaurant near the hotel. There isn't much in this area and it is a bit dark to be walking far at night.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">The whole city is falling down and have not been maintained since before the war. The buildings are late 19th C. and up to 1930's. Lots of them are empty, with broken windows, or a bit of boarding. Some have rough covered walkways in front for safety of the pedestrians. Only around the Parliament Buildings, things are glitzy and slick. I am quite amazed about the state of the city --- it might as well be 1973 when I was last here. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">On the way out of town, I stopped at a gas station and the fellow very cheerfully adjusted the air in my tires with a portable machine. The warming light was still on but the booklet indicated some kind of reset was required. I thought perhaps restarting the car but within a few hours discovered the button for that purpose. I also played around with the cruise control. The controls are directly behind the steering wheel and cannot be seen while driving. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Szeged -- I drove to Szeged, it's not far, with the trusty Garmin. This is a very lively town. The Korona hotel was a big surprise and very cheap. It looks terrible outside but is a gem inside for the price, with a lovely dining room (in the basement of course), and good breakfast and coffee except no fruit. The location at first glance is awful with a tram running within a few feet, but it's actually right on one of the main squares, and a few blocks from everything.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">I had a good walk around, there was a wine festival going on with about 50 of those little cabins in the square, and lots of good food. The town is in disrepair with the river walk fenced off. A few terrific Art Nouveau buildings to look at too. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5362836571723446424.post-63066177933912827592015-05-14T13:17:00.000-07:002015-05-16T12:31:46.320-07:00Balkan Road Trip - Day 1-2 (May 13-14) - Krakow<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Thursday, May 14 -- Here I am finally on my Balkan road trip, stomach slightly fluttering but all going well. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">The Car: The car is a lease through Auto Europe, expensive with insurance because of the Balkans and also there are some restrictions on countries (i.e. no Albania or Kosovo). Altogether $2700 for May 11-June 24, including drop-off fees. It's a Peugeot brand new, very nice to drive. I had the same car and lease arrangements the last time in France in 2011, but that was much cheaper --- about $3,000 for 3 months. The process took a long time and the papers were very slow, so allow about a month to be on the safe side. After all that trouble, the pick-up process went really smoothly. I went with my tour group to Schiphol airport, walked over to Arrivals 4 with my luggage, called for pick-up, was driven about 8 km to the agent. The same very nice guy drove the pick-up van and then did my paperwork. It did not take very long. Then I filled up at the gas station next door. The car had 4 km on it and an empty tank. I took two days to drive 1311 km to Krakow, stopping for the night twice, once in Soest and again in Bautzen (near Dresden) I really liked Soest and the Munster area. Former East Germany not so much. Bautzen, while a beautiful medieval town, was not lively. There was a terrible storm and no people out and about. They have a castle, wall, river, churches, cloth hall, and more.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">The Driving: Wednesday, May 13 - I drove from Bautzen, Germany to Krakow (about 500 km) arriving around 3 pm and was parked and in hotel room by 4 pm. GPS is a godsend --- I drove the entire way and through Krakow directly to my hotel without a single wrong turn. Driving in Poland is very easy, just like in Germany. I was on the motorway all the way and paid tolls 2-3 times (in zloty, see Currency below). Once in Poland there are a lot fewer trucks on the road and the trucks are much smaller. They drive the same as in the rest of Europe. Speed limit is 120 or less, and everybody seems to stick to it, so I assume that the fines are heavy. Some people drive like lightning bolts --- must be German. Same cars as Germany and loads of Audis and Mercedes.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Currency: My first issue was currency. My first stop inside Poland for lunch and coffee was a highway rest stop with a McDonalds. Had a cheeseburger too, nice (not) small lunch and good (yes) coffee. Coffee in Germany and Poland is terrible as a rule. They do not take Euros here, but I found a bank machine at the gas station. I am sure the charges and fees and rates are high, but the worst thing is that the minimum withdrawal seemed to be 800 zloty (about 3 to 1 CAD), so $270 CAD, but charged me 243?? USD. Will try to change euros in future.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Today, I asked at the hotel desk and found that "kantor" means exchange in Polish (not a Jewish religious official) and asked if they exchange zloty into florints (my next non-Euro country is Hungary), so I can either do euros or florints when I leave tomorrow. Slovakia uses the Euro.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Hotels: The best thing for travelling besides Auto Europe and GPS is booking.com. Before leaving Bautzen I booked the Kasimierz Hotel in Krakow. I decided to push through the 500 km drive and book a hotel so I would not have to worry what time I arrive. Hotel prices are similar to Germany. My hotel is in the Jewish quarter (very interesting and lively, funky trendy area, walking distance to the old city), Hotel Kasamiriez (242 ?? zloty) including breakfast plus parking 25 zloty per day. Everything was fine (great shower, great WIFI, good breakfast, terrible coffee, great staff) except the bedding and mattress, which were pretty horrible. The hotel is full for second night, so I booked the David Hotel (300 zloty) nearby online, and will move this morning. Paid for another day's parking (25 zloty per 24 hours) in the same place. Everyone is very accommodating, smiling, hotel staff speak English, but parking guy not a word. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Dinner: Hotel staff recommended restaurant nearby hotel, with 10% discount coupon. I may have stumbled into the old Eastern European ways of trying to cheat the customer. In western Europe, the day's menu/special/formule is always the freshest, best prepared, and best value, and locals always chose it. The waiter very strongly recommended the duck and it sure was funny tasting. Old?? This happens in Vancouver where I avoid the specials as that often is the old food that they have to get rid of, and also cheaper ingredients. The perogi I had for a starter were good (not as good as warenicki in Steinbach). </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Must check into tipping customs here. In western Europe, no tip is the custom.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Language: So far, I know sklep (store), dyunkuya (thank you), kantor(exchange), stari(old), dobra (good), tschech(hi), do vedanya (good-bye).</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Sights: Many many brown signs along the way (indicating places of interest, historical sights). Countryside rolling with very long views. Lots to see in Krakow, hope to see art today --- I need it. The nice day turned into rain and cold. I decided to see the Wawel Castle as it has a Leonardo da Vinci called the <i>Woman with Ermine</i>. Very little English spoken by the personnel at the Castle. Everywhere crowds of school groups. What will the kids nowadays do when they grow up --- they will have seen and done everything already. The Castle was expensive --- 87 zloty for all the different exhibits (later found out the Cathedral was another fee), but there was little if any English interpretation. Two toilets for 1000 people, two tiny cafes for lunch. Pouring rain all day. I asked about audio tour when buying tickets, she said there was none, but later I found out there was for additional price of course. The Easter European habits of poor service prevail here. Talking through glass and not wanting to explain anything --- just like the old Communist days.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Shops: Love the Polish pottery. Dream of collecting it.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Technology: Only 20 minutes to log in to Google and find my blogs. Even with my careful notes, which did not work at all. But I got here. Even employing my phone to find the email with my verification code for google. J#(%*_#)*^+$#</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Anyway, now that I have my phone working after several calls to Bell while in Holland (Bell had put the travel restrictions back on my account), I am good there (I hope.)</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Now I can't figure out how to look at my list of posts --- google makes me crazy.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">The car is pretty simple but have not tried to figure out cruise control yet.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Me: Healthy but tired. Fighting a virus, I must be. Spirits good. Need a good art exhibit. The Leonardo was exquisite but ruined by too many tourists taking pictures and crowding.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5362836571723446424.post-10567840008937563282014-04-27T12:34:00.006-07:002014-04-27T12:34:53.183-07:00European Marathon Sept.18-Nov.15, 2013 Parts 1-4<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Now I regret not recording details of my trip to Europe last fall Sept - Nov. 2013, so I have to try to remember. I didn't remember the towns I stayed in the night before when I was there, so it's going to be interesting.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">I do remember that all of it was wonderful. My goals were accomplished.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">I learned that I am fine travelling on my own for a lengthy period.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">I learned that I can drive half way across Europe and back and it's not too much.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">I learned I can navigate on my own with maps, and google print-outs.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">I learned I can find reasonable and great hotels easily.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">I learned I can manage in German, French, and Spanish.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">I learned that I like the comfort and privacy of a hotel room.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">I learned that while I like spending time with friends, I like my own agenda too.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">I learned that I need much better pillows than the ones in European hotels. Mattresses are awful too.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">I learned that it's not great travelling in cold weather.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">I am putting off starting this description, but here goes.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Sept. 18 - flew to London (Gatwick) and took the tube straight to Russell Square. My hotel was half a block from the tube station (a lovely Art Deco station). I think it was BA and I am now a member of their air miles club and collecting. I think I booked that myself. [check this]</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Met my group for the first day of John Atkin's London Perambulator walking tour (see separate post). I can't remember the details but all the tours were outstanding. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Here's some of the emails I sent to friends:</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><b>Part 1 -- London Perambulator with John Atkin Sept.18-25</b></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Sept. 22, 2013 London</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="background-color: white;">Arrived a few days ago, and have been walking ever since. So far, <b>Bedford Park</b> (delightful suburb), and <b>Open London --- focus on Whitehall area, Ministry of Defence, Banqueting Hall, Royal Courts of Justice </b>(great tour of the goal cells complete with character guards -- very entertaining, low humour). Boat down from Kew to Westminster --- astounding development --- when did this appear? I've never seen those areas, so it was a surprise to me. I am thinking about play tickets now --- might as well see something. I have ticket to <i>Much Ado About Nothing</i> with Vanessa Redgrave and James EArl Jones --- odd juxtapositioning of actors and play but I suppose that's the point. No musicals, can't keep awake.</span><span style="background-color: white;"> </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="background-color: white;">You are right, lots of eastern Europeans in London, maybe the whole city.</span><span style="background-color: white;"> </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="background-color: white;">Right now, I only need to follow the group around, but in a week or so, I will be multi-tasking and sharp.</span><span style="background-color: white;"> </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Sept.25, 2013 </span><br />
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London is fantastic. We are walking all day, having pub lunch, and that sure takes it out of me. No energy to do anything in the evening. But the hotel is in a great area. Our last day of guided walks is today, and tomorrow I will start doing the museums and shopping on my own. And move to my friend G's place for a few days. We are sure getting around to all the hidden places and also the suburbs. And very quaint pubs. <br />
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We went to a play one night. It was Vanessa Redgrave and James Earl Jones in Much Ado About Nothing. Embarrassingly bad. Terrible actually. These old actors (79 and 82) --- too old I think, esp Jones, but the whole thing was bad. So, we saw the worst play in London, but that's okay. One gal in the group is on the board of Bard on the Beach, and she goes to a play every day. I think she is seeing really good stuff. Next time, I will do that too. I have to crank myself into higher gear, I guess I am jaded with life (ha). This group is pleasant but not partiers, maybe that would take another week or two. </div>
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Anyway, in our 500-year old house tour yesterday we were taken around by 92 year old Dougie, who was fantastic, funny, witty, interesting, quick on his (mental) feet, running up and down, amazing guy. I think dad would have been like that too. So, it's not impossible to be hale and hearty well into the 90's. <br />
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<b>Part 2 -- London with GB Sept.26-Oct.1</b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">September 27, 2013 London</span><br />
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With G, saw <i>Chimerica</i> yesterday which was excellent. Amazing set, great script, pretty good acting, although projecting and enunciating seem to be weak universally. Musicals --- saw <i>Avenue Q i</i>n Vancouver --- everybody raved over it, and how profound the meaning of it, etc., but I found it the same as all musicals --- a couple of sentimental cliches and it's profound --- like poetry and song lyrics. But it was a clever production with puppets (yes, how can you not love the muppets). Some people saw the Lion King twice (probably same ones who bought those dolls with life histories years ago).<br />
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So, London is spectacular, very changed, but great. I hope I get a chance to go down to Greenwich, but days are numbered now. <br />
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Today, <b>Ham House </b>--- which will be a nice change --- car riding, instead of pounding the pavements. <br />
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Yesterday, also saw the <b>Lowry exhibit at Tate Britain, the War Museum/Churchill Museum </b>(thank god I had read Jennie Jerome bio and stories about Clemmie and <i>The History of the English Speaking Peoples </i>or I would have come away very naive. It is a very cleansed presentation. Good tapes of people who actually worked there. Apparently it was not safe, a direct hit would have killed them all, but like a lot in the war, they lived on words. I wish they explained more about the maps as that must have been a huge --- they never turned the lights off in the maps rooms the entire war --- I am fascinated with huge detailed that seem insurmountable. G. tells me Blechley Park is a good place to go, so I will come back planning a large circle tour including that and Saltaire another day.</div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Sept. 28, 2013</span><br />
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Well, until now I didn't have any recommendations (for London sights). But now have seen <i>Chimerica </i>-- which is great. Playing at Harold Pinter theatre near Leicester Square. Take the boat down the river --- you will be astounded at the development --- London is now modern. We mostly did walks in far suburbs. Saw <b>Eastbury (Elizbethan mansion) </b>one day which was great. I think you won't be here long, so probably you'll just walk and see the main museums. If you want to go farther afield, there is Eltham Palace --- a very beautiful Art Deco palace that is complete with all furniture and art and stunning gardens. </div>
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Weather here is pretty warm, but a little cooler every day. </div>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Oct. 1, 2013</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: georgia, serif; font-size: 16px;">The trip is going great. London was amazing after all these years. I saw a lot of new things, and did some oldies. The worst play in London (Much Ado About Nothing with Vanessa Redgrave and James Earl Jones) and probably the best (Chimerica). The walking group was a great group but they all went their own way after lunch, mostly to bed, so it was great to stay with G for a few days as she still has some umph in her, but really looking forward to my visit with you for everything good. </span><br />
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Saw the Lowry exhibit -- I am sure you'd know the paintings --- northern England working class life with lots of stick figures, the <b>Denny Severs house </b>(old old house near charing cross full of old stuff, smells, and lit by candle light), and tour of Charing Cross station area with more stories with G's friend. Funny and a statement at the same time. There's SOOOOO much in London, I could stay here for months. I didn't venture out of town, but next time, must do a driving tour. </div>
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Yesterday I did the <b>V & A (fabulous hunting tapestries of Henry VIII courtiers vandalizing the parks), Michelin house,</b> and<b> Barkers.</b><br />
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<b>Part 3 -- London to Berlin</b><br />
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October 1, 2013 London to Lille</div>
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Today - big day --- got myself over to Lille, picked up the car, and drove half way across Europe this afternoon. It all went like clockwork. I was planning on a traditional town pub/hotel, and that's just what I got. The town is <b>Beckum (ea</b>st of Dortmund). I picked it off the map because I thought a town with the ending "um" would be a good one. Apparently it means a very very old town that grew up from a slightly dry spot in the swamps. Maybe it's not true because this area is higher, but then Munster is close and apparently that is a swampty area with many moated castles. </div>
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Better go for a walk now and then enjoy the haxen and bier. </div>
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Wish you were here. </div>
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Oct. 1, 2013</div>
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Today - big day --- got myself over to Lille, picked up the car, and drove half way across Europe this afternoon. It all went like clockwork -- can't believe how easy each step was. I was planning on a traditional town pub/hotel, and that's just what I got. Better go for a walk now and then enjoy the very German supper and a beer. <b>Hotel Samson in Bekkum</b> just west of Dortmund. </div>
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Oct. 1/2013</div>
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The trip is going great. London was amazing after all these years. I saw a lot of new things, and did some oldies. The worst play in London (Much Ado About Nothing with Vanessa Redgrave and James Earl Jones) and probably the best (Chimerica). The walking group was a great group but they all went their own way after lunch, mostly to bed, so it was great to stay with an old friend for a few days who still has some umph in her. The walks were all great and to really interesting new places. <br />
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Saw a Lowry exhibit -- I am sure you'd recognize the paintings --- northern England working class life with lots of stick figures. Funny and a statement at the same time. Very good. There's SOOOOO much in London, I could stay here for months. I didn't venture out of town, but next time, must do a driving tour. <br />
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<div>
Today - big day --- got myself over to Lille, picked up the car, and drove half way across Europe this afternoon. It all went like clockwork. I was planning on a traditional town pub/hotel, and that's just what I got. Better go for a walk now and then enjoy the very German supper and a beer.</div>
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Oct.1/13 London to Lille</div>
<div>
The trip is going great. London was amazing after all these years. I saw a lot of new things, and did some oldies. The worst play in London (Much Ado About Nothing with Vanessa Redgrave and James Earl Jones) and probably the best (Chimerica). The walking group was a great group but they all went their own way after lunch, mostly to bed, so it was great to stay with Gill for a few days as she still has some umph in her.<br />
<br /></div>
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We walked and walked in London, all sorts of neighbourhoods, medieval manor houses I had not seen before, and just funny old corners of the City. Also Open London where they open a lot of public buildings not normally open to the public. <br />
</div>
<div>
Saw the Lowry exhibit -- I am sure you'd know the paintings --- northern England working class life with lots of stick figures, the Denny Severs house (old old house near charing cross full of old stuff, smells, and lit by candle light), and tour of Charing Cross station area with more stories with G's friend. Funny and a statement at the same time. There's SOOOOO much in London, I could stay here for months. I didn't venture out of town, but next time, must do a driving tour. <br />
<br /></div>
<div>
Yesterday I did the V & A (fabulous hunting tapestries of Henry VIII courtiers vandalizing the parks), Michelin house, and Barkers.<br />
<br /></div>
<div>
Today - big day --- got myself over to Lille, picked up the car, and drove half way across Europe this afternoon. It all went like clockwork. I was planning on a traditional town pub/hotel, and that's just what I got. The town is Beckum (east of Dortmund). I picked it off the map because I thought a town with the ending "um" would be a good one. Apparently it means a very very old town that grew up from a slightly dry spot in the swamps. Maybe it's not true because this area is higher, but then Munster is close and apparently that is a swampty area with many moated castles. </div>
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Better go for a walk now and then enjoy the haxen and bier. </div>
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Oct. 1/13</div>
<div>
Correction: The town is Beckum. I picked it off the map because I thought a town with the ending "um" would be a good one. Apparently it means a very very old town that grew up from a slightly dry spot in the swamps. Maybe it's not true because this area is higher, but then Munster is close and apparently that is a swampty area with many moated castles. Do you know anything about this town name ending? There are a lot of "ums" in northern Holland --- the towns on little bumps in the middle of flat lamp, and usually have a church on the highest part of the bump. Apparently over the millenia, the natives drove the cattle to these slight rises when the water rose, so the low humps gradaully got higher and higher.<br />
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I'll keep you posted on any other new language discoveries.</div>
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Bev</div>
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Oct. 2/13</div>
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Well, I found out from the local museum that the name used to be Beckheim and there are many towns that used to be ... heim and now ...um. So that makes sense.<br />
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Today, total opposite --- yucky town, yucky hotel, yucky dinner. </div>
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Oct. 3/13</div>
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Over here, it is easy to be fit, lots of walking, and not much eating. I am feeling pretty good and looking forward to Berlin. </div>
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I am sitting in a huge dining room --- nobody else here, but there's a huge buffet breakfast. Last night I had dinner in the Ratskeller (I am in <b>Helbstedt</b> near Hannover, on my way to Berlin today). It is cool in the mornings but hot and sunny all day. I am really enjoying the driving and finding a hotel doesn't seem like a problem. </div>
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Yesterday, I drove around in an area called <b>Munsterland </b>where they have 100's of castles surrounded by water. Could I find even one? No luck. I don't have a Germany guide book, and this time, local signs didn't help. I went to tourist info, but all there info is for cyclists. I searched the internet too --- no luck. Today, I will look around Potsdam -- Sansouci before I get to the hotel late afternoon. These places need to know what time you will arrive so I said 6 pm.</div>
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Re the driving, I have been in some monsterous "stau's" (traffic jams). The radio announced them as "10 km stau between x and y, 1 hour" (how long you will be delayed). There are 1000's of trucks, usually they stay in the right lane, but you have to watch as they move over with 2 seconds warning. I am in my element on the road.</div>
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Oct. 4/2013 Berlin</div>
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I finally got internet (by going across the street to a very nice bar and & restaurant). The hotel is on the 3rd floor of a 19th century building that still has original curly iron balconies, ancient wooden elevator, unbelievable carving in dining room, etc. Okay fruhstuck but they have WILAN that doesn't really work.<br />
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Berlin is very exciting. Were you here when you visited Germany a few years ago? I walked all day long and saw the main squares and gates and Reichstag. Lots of people, and reconstruction everywhere.<br />
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YOu would have loved the special exhibits at the <b>Martin Gropius </b>I saw today. Oppenheimer Retrospective, and a Kapor installation specially created --- completely amazing, with red wax everywhere, and cannon shooting cans of red wax around (meaning = blood). One installation was a dead something that was like a black flat tire that filled 3 rooms. <br />
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I wandered saw the new <b>Holocaust Memorial </b>--- fabulous interpretation --- different from all the others I have seen --- had to sit down and have a cry --- these things are sooo upsetting, but you have to see them. I saw the o<b>ld Berlin Wall and Checkpoint Charlie </b>--- it has all changed since 1973 (<i>naturlich</i>). <br />
<br /></div>
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There sure are lots of things to learn when travelling, like how to park your car, how to use the subway system, find hotels, how to drive on the autobahn, etc. but I just love it. The first time is hardest and then it's just fine. I feel like a worldly traveller. <br />
</div>
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I met a lady in the hotel this morning. She travels to see exhibits that she is interested in --- that is my goal --- travel to exhibits.<br />
<br /></div>
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I figured out that the former east Germany is still behind the western part --- and it is reflected in the service attitude too --- still a little bit in the past, compared to the west. That explains the difference between my first little town Beckum and the second one Helbstedt. <br />
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Anyway, having the time of my life here, just what I wanted. On the road in Europe with a car. Wow! <br />
<br /></div>
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man this beer is good --- people here just order a beer --- don't specify. London, they have a bunch of choices on tap and you have to specify.<br />
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As for where to live for 3 months while learning German --- it's between Beckum and Berlin (ha). <br />
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My German is not too bad -- surprising me. I have the radio on in the car all day, which helps. </div>
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Oct.4/13 Berlin</div>
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I asked a young woman yesterday what you called a senior citizen in German --- she said <i>Senioren</i> (or something like that) or <i>Rentner</i>. This morning I asked a more senior German woman she had never heard of <i>Rentner</i>. </div>
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Oct.4/13 Berlin</div>
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The trip is going great. London was amazing after all these years. I saw a lot of new things, and did some oldies. The worst play in London (Much Ado About Nothing with Vanessa Redgrave and James Earl Jones) and probably the best (Chimerica). The walking group was a great group but they all went their own way after lunch, mostly to bed, so it was great to stay with G for a few days as she still has some umph in her. <br />
<br /></div>
<div>
Saw the Lowry exhibit -- I am sure you'd know the paintings --- northern England working class life with lots of stick figures, the Denny Severs house (old old house near charing cross full of old stuff, smells, and lit by candle light), and tour of Charing Cross station area with more stories with G's friend. Funny and a statement at the same time. There's SOOOOO much in London, I could stay here for months. I didn't venture out of town, but next time, must do a driving tour. <br />
<br /></div>
<div>
Yesterday I did the V & A (fabulous hunting tapestries of Henry VIII courtiers vandalizing the parks), Michelin house, and Barkers.<br />
<br /></div>
<div>
Today - big day --- got myself over to Lille, picked up the car, and drove half way across Europe this afternoon. It all went like clockwork. I was planning on a traditional town pub/hotel, and that's just what I got. The town is Beckum (east of Dortmund). I picked it off the map because I thought a town with the ending "um" would be a good one. Apparently it means a very very old town that grew up from a slightly dry spot in the swamps. Maybe it's not true because this area is higher, but then Munster is close and apparently that is a swampy area with many moated castles. </div>
<div>
Better go for a walk now and then enjoy the haxen and bier. </div>
</div>
</div>
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Oct.5/13 Berlin</div>
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<div>
I finally got internet (by going across the street to a very nice bar and & restaurant). The hotel is on the 3rd floor of a 19th century building that still has original curly iron balconies, ancient wooden elevator, unbelievable carving in dining room, etc. Okay fruhstuck but they have WILAN that doesn't really work. So I go across the street to a great bar/restaurant every night for free WIFI.<br />
<br /></div>
<div>
Berlin is very exciting. I walk all day long and saw the main squares and gates and Reichstag. Lots of people, and reconstruction everywhere.<br />
<br />
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Yesterday, I saw the usual big monuments and an art exhibit. People here have money --- going by how they dress and the shops. <br />
<br /></div>
<div>
I saw the new <b>Holocaust Memorial -</b>-- fabulous interpretation --- different from all the others I have seen --- had to sit down and have a cry --- these things are sooo upsetting, but you have to see them. I saw the <b>old Berlin Wall and Checkpoint Charlie</b> --- it has all changed since 1973 (naturlich). <br />
<br /></div>
<div>
There sure are lots of things to learn when travelling, like how to park your car, how to use the subway system, find hotels, how to drive on the autobahn, etc. but I just love it. The first time is hardest and then it's just fine. I feel like a worldly traveller. </div>
<div>
I met a lady in the hotel this morning. She travels to see exhibits that she is interested in --- that is my goal --- travel to exhibits.</div>
<div>
I figured out that the former east Germany is still behind the western part --- and it is reflected in the service attitude too --- still a little bit in the past, compared to the west. That explains the difference between my first little town Beckum and the second one Helbstedt, where I stayed for night. Both historical towns but night and day atmosphere. One alive and friendly, one dead and nobody around, no hotels in the middle, no restaurants open, just the RatsKeller thank god.<br />
<br /></div>
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Today, my car was towed away --- I didn't see or understand the sign that said that a movie was being made, so I had quite a morning. The movie people were great, phoned the police and drove me to the police station. I paid a wopping fine (150 eu) and then was given the location of my car -- 50 feet from where they towed it on the street. But first they gave me the wrong address, and then I had to get a lady in a shop to phone for me and the proper address. (the whole thing was not as bad as the night dad's car got towed) Finally, all set, if I had just looked around I would have found the car and skipped the fine. Anyway, met some great people, and great chance to speak German. Half the time I speak plaut detach by mistake. Then off I went to my museums and spent all day doing that.<br />
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Finally, I went to the department store KaDeWe which is even way better than Harrods. On the food floor, they have lots of eating and drinking bars --- the places is full, but you can find a seat at any bar, and have champagne or any drink from anywhere in the world. They even have a Kanada section. Talk about money $$$$$$$$.<br />
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People here are well dressed --- far more than in North American. I am always looking at what people are wearing, young and old. They really take pride in dressing in high quality, coordinated, and dress up more. They definitely are not fat --- that you don't see. Sometimes a middle aged woman has a few pounds, but mostly they are slim too. Even thought they serve these huge huge haxen and snitzel and huge piles of potatoes and gravy. Nobody can make gravy though. I had stein pilzen yesterday -- mmm, but Harry's are better.<br />
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I can't decide whether I like Berlin (for a 3 month stay --- it is so crowded and so much construction), but then you can always take trips to the countryside and explore. </div>
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Anyway, having the time of my life here, just what I wanted. On the road in Europe with a car. Wow!<br />
<br /></div>
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Man the beer is good --- people here just order a beer --- don't specify. London, they have a bunch of choices on tap and you have to specify and usually go up to the bar --- but you do not tip the bartender. That surprised me as I thought you had to buy one for them.<br />
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As for where to live for 3 months while learning German --- it's between Beckum and Berlin (ha). <br />
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My German is not too bad -- surprising me. I have the radio on in the car all day when driving, which helps. </div>
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<br />
<b>Part 4 -- Berlin to Nancy Oct. 6-</b><br />
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Oct.5/2013 Berlin</div>
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Paris is not on my agenda. I am in Berlin now, heading for Nancy, France next and then the west coast of France --- Bordeaux. My favorite part of France so far is still Languedoc but want to explore west coast to see whether it would be nice to spend 3 months. </div>
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Oct.6/13 Berlin</div>
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Here I sit in Starbucks having a coffee and internet session. My hotel said they had WIFI but they don't so I am using the local restaurants. <br />
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I have walked and walked here in Berlin, visiting all the big sights (sites?) and exhibits. It's a great city, but I am surprised that it's still behind west Germany in so many ways (and way behind London). There are fancy stores here, but I am told that it is the Russians that are spending the money, not Germans.<br />
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I had my car towed yesterday --- what an adventure (expensive) that was. I was in a legal spot but unbeknownst to me a film company had rented the area, and I did not see/understand the sign. All in the name of learning German I guess.<br />
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The hotel is a funny place --- an old old apartment with ancient wooden elevator. Comfortable, convenient, but no WIFI. However, the restaurant across the street is my home in the evenings.<br />
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So, tomorrow I am on the road again, heading for Nancy for a few days. I will stop a few places on the way for night, and take a chance on a hotel and parking etc. Maybe look around Alsace a bit too. Then cross to the western side of France. If you might be coming to meet me, just let me know where you are, and I will find you.</div>
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Oct. 6/2013 Berlin</div>
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My last night in Berlin, after seeing all the sights. My hotel does not have WIFI (they said they did), so I am spending evenings at a nice bar/resto across the street. Full of Russians --- like the whole city. Where else do grown men, young, old, tough looking, suits, and lots of blonde women order pots of tea and sit with their cell phones? </div>
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It's very East GErmany here still.<br />
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Guess what I sort of got picked up in Starbucks, a very nice retired German guy. We are going to email. He invited me to visit him in Koln. But he's off to Laos, so I guess it will be another year. <br />
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Berlin is very different from 1973 -- but I went to all the old places --- Checkpoint Charlie, and all that. The new thing is the Holocaust Memorial in the middle of the city --- very well done museum underneath all the stelae. I've seen it before, but this one was quite different, and I had my cry down there. <br />
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Okay, better get out of here, and to bed. Another adventure tomorrow. My car was towed the other morning --- film company --- they put up a sign but I didn't see it, so another chance to practice German. All was well, once the money was paid. Ouch.</div>
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Oct. 7, 2013 Dessau and Bad Nauheim</div>
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I am cool with wherever you want to go in France. I wanted to see La Rochelle area for sure, as you have both spoken about it before. I sounds great.<br />
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As for character and charm, I have just checked into a funny old place in <b>Bad Nauheim. </b>Cheap, shabby, good wifi, good location. I drove all the way from Berlin, listening to rock and pop all the way. I had a great morning in <b>Dessau</b> looking at the Gropius houses and Bauhaus school. Had to buy a poster, after swearing no posters for many years now. The reason I am in this town is that I want to find those Roman walls and fort tomorrow --- the Limes as the wall was called. <br />
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The Germans are different from place to place --- those East Germans are, well, rude, and derisive when you don't know something or do something right. They think they are hospital and helpful but they (try to) make you feel like an idiot tourist. The ones working in the Charlottenburg are unbelievable, they won't say anything if you ask a question. They all thought it was hilarious and all my fault that my car was towed. The movie people were great though, very very nice. <br />
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Anyway, we'll keep in touch, and I will now explore a very ancient run down spa town with Kliniks and Krankenhauser all over. Also, some kind of market celebration going so I will check that out.</div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5362836571723446424.post-35310251514641475272014-04-27T11:16:00.001-07:002015-05-14T22:54:03.140-07:00Medical Logistics<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><b>General Coverage</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">I have retirement medical benefits which cover me for everything up to 60 days. That saves me a lot of money getting medical insurance for all my travel.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">I take my Greenshields card and a print-out or brochure that outlines the coverage. I also photocopy the card and phone numbers and put it in different places. Also, put the information on my computer. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Frequently, the tour company requires proof of your coverage to be provided to the Tour Manager on arrival or you can't go on the trip. If you don't have extended benefits or retirement coverage, try BCAA or Cooperators.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">I phone Greenshields in advance for some trips to clarify coverage. For example, for Iran there is a Canadian government warning against going there. However, Greenshields still covers medical costs there if they can provide them. If there is war for example and they cannot fly me out or the hospitals are closed, and they cannot provide service, then I am not covered. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><b>Shots</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">I go to the Travel Clinic for any required </span><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">vaccinations and immunizations. T</span><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">hey have records my </span><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">vaccinations and immunizations. </span><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"> </span><cite class="_nd" style="background-color: white; color: #006621; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: small; font-style: normal; line-height: 16px; white-space: nowrap;"><b>travelclinic</b>.vch.ca/</cite><span style="background-color: white; color: grey; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small; line-height: 16px; white-space: nowrap;"></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">They also provide advice and prescriptions for medications and mandatory and advisable jabs for each country. It is expensive and inconvenient but sometimes mandatory.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">The Travel Clinic provides a booklet with a record of my vaccinations and immunizations. I take a photocopy of the booklet and keep copies with other important documents (one at home, one in my hand luggage, a scanned copy on my computer and emailed to myself). </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">I keep the basic </span><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">vaccinations and immunizations up to date, and only get any mandatory jabs prior to each trip. I've also had Hep A vaccination --- you can get this at home too through food in restaurants and delis. </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><b>Medical Kit</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">I take basic stuff with me to avoid wasting my time and others:</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">1. Colds, Flu, Coughs -- Ibuprofen Cold & Sinus, lozenges. Tylenol is better for sleeping, but the </span><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Ibuprofen Cold & Sinus is great for day time --- it dries things up and gives you an energy boost.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Best preventive: Never never touch your face even if your hands are clean. Especially never your nose or eyes as that --- these are the entry points into your body. Wash your hands frequently. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">2. Eyes -- eye gel in tubes for my dry eyes.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">3. Inflammation e.g. dust/pollution in lungs, bug bites, -- antihistamine such as Aerius to bring down. Some are good for sleeping, others for day time. I am taking this with me for the first time. Also, I take a scarf for dust and pollution.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">4. Cuts, bites, scrapes -- polysporin, bandaids. Use hand sanitizer in a pinch to keep any opening in the skin clean. AfterBite works for drying up bites but not for the itch. Bug repellent wipes (with Deet). Hydrosone for bad bites. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">South American, Amazon jungle. There are terrible bugs called noseeums. You cannot feel, hear or see these bugs. The bites are ferocious. Mosquito netting does not keep them out. Wear long sleeves, long pants, socks, and closed shoes. Bring insect spray (must be spray) and close the mosquito netting on your bed on arrival and then spray the inside very thoroughly. Keep the netting closed all the time. Put the hydrazone on the bites.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">5. Stomach -- Seirogan for diarrhea (Japanese can be obtained in Chinatown), Immodium or similar in case Seirogan doesn't work. No more antibiotics as they mess up my gut for months. Milk of Magnesia tablets apparently they mop up the bugs on the way through but do nothing else ??/ </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Some people also take something for nausea but I don't. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Lots of extra TP and anti-bacterial or chlorox wipes to clean bathroom, and stuff you touch when you are sick.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5362836571723446424.post-61674429652242697742014-04-27T10:36:00.000-07:002014-04-27T10:36:10.903-07:00New York with Cory Weeds (Jazz) March 14-23, 2014<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">This was an all-round great trip. Again, I wanted to do this for several years, but finally booked it. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Cory Weeds had the Jazz Cellar on Broadway for years, and is still organizing concerts and the annual New York with Weeds. </span>http://newyorkwithweeds.com<br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">The New York jazz tour program was amazing. See details at bottom of post.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><b>Logistics</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Read all about the logistics of flying to the US without your passport under my post on Palm Springs. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Email I sent re the Quickshuttle to Seattle: "</span><span style="background-color: white; font-size: 16px;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Enjoy is not a word I would use. The driver was same as last time. Last time he was horrible martinet, giving confusing instructions or none and then yelling at everybody when they did things wrong. He was rude to everybody. This time he was overly familiar and trying to look good, but it came across creepy. Everybody ignores him and doesn't make eye contact or respond to what he says. If you ask a question, it is the last time you do. Quite an adventure.</span></span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white; font-size: 16px;"> </span><span style="background-color: white; font-size: 16px;">The WIFI on the bus is excruciatingly slow or doesn't work at all (last trip too) it is impossible to use, so I just slept." </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">I flew Delta Airlines to JFK and took a taxi to the hotel -- the Kitano in Midtown. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Emails I sent re airline: </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">"<span style="background-color: white; font-size: 16px;">Hi, still in Seattle. I upgraded online to get an aisle seat ($88) but apparently the computer gave me a middle seat. There were only middle seats available before and after 1 pm, so I clicked on an aisle seat, paid for it, but the seat number they gave me is a middle seat anyway. I guess I just don't get all the little tricks these airlines have. You can't tell after you pay because you can't see the seat plan at that point.</span></span><br />
<div style="background-color: white; font-size: 16px;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Anyway, I will survive. " </span><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Comment: I was charged for the aisle seat upgrade on the return flight. I think I already had an aisle seat and just got a better one (2 more inches), but who knows.</span></div>
<div style="background-color: white; font-size: 16px;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: georgia, serif;">"</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I enquired and apparently you can't choose a seat or even upgrade and pay if you bought your ticket with points or through a third party. Good to know these things I guess, but next time it will be another thing. The online systems are unclear."</span></div>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><b>Packing</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">As stated in other places, I am taking only carry-on now. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">The perfect New York wardrobe for March included a long wool winter coat, large shawl, 2 pairs of gloves (leather, shearling), headband, and a folding pop-up umbrella with curved handle. Jeans, nicer pants, cashmere sweaters to layer, all sorts of tops, a few scarves and necklaces to dress it up.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Next time -- UGG ear muffs (already bought them). Leggings/skinny jeans. Cute winter beret like Katie Malloch had.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Of course, Keen brown suede leather walking shoes for putting on miles --- it's all walking walking walking. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Luggage -- Briggs & Riley 20-inch widebody, Longchamp tote bag, Longchamp small tote/purse.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><b>The Hotel</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">The Kitano was luxurious, very Japanese (all Japanese staff, toilet with many buttons/levers/switches, positions/temperatures/humidity options), and in a great location at Park and 38th. www.kitano.com</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">On the subject of sharing rooms. I shared a room with someone I hadn't met before. I've had such good luck with being paired with roommates before but this time our habits were too different. Not a disaster, but not a good fit. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><b>Stuff I Did</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><b><br /></b></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">I went to the Met and the MOMA, also a new place called The Morgan Library </span><cite class="_nd" style="background-color: white; color: #006621; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: small; font-style: normal; line-height: 16px; white-space: nowrap;">www.themorgan.org/</cite><span style="background-color: white; color: grey; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: x-small; line-height: 16px; white-space: nowrap;"></span><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"> The most stunning fact about the place was that the long-time librarian turned out to be passing as white and no one figured it out until she died. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">One morning I walked the High Line, an old elevated railroad turned into a walking path/garden. </span><cite class="_nd" style="background-color: white; color: #006621; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: small; font-style: normal; line-height: 16px; white-space: nowrap;">www.thehighline.org/</cite><span style="background-color: white; color: grey; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: x-small; line-height: 16px; white-space: nowrap;"></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Email I sent: "</span><span style="background-color: white; font-size: 16px;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">New York so far -- one hottish lovely sunny day, lunch outside in LIttle Italy, fabulous Jazz piano trioprogram in the early evening, followed by another fabulous jazz concert at Jazz at the Lincoln Centre. Today, very cold wind. I walked the High Line, a former elevated rail line, turned into a garden, all brown at the moment, and then browsed around Chelsea and Meat Packing district.</span></span><br />
<div style="background-color: white; font-size: 16px;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Tonight is the American Legion --- another NY adventure into places I've never been."</span></div>
<div style="background-color: white; font-family: georgia, serif; font-size: 16px;">
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><b>Eating</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">A lot of meals were included. </span><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">By far the best meals were the BBQ cooked by Vincent Herring at his house in Brooklyn with dinner at the American Legion on par.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">I had lunch in Chelsea, Little Italy, and other spots while walking around. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">There are a number of delis near the hotel and a fabulous market in Grand Central 2 blocks away. Also, a Starbucks within a block. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">The best coffee/bakery/cafe chain by a big margin is the Le Pain Quotidien. Bestcoffeetoo. </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #006621; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 16px; white-space: nowrap;">www.</span><b style="background-color: white; color: #006621; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 16px; white-space: nowrap;">lepainquotidien</b><span style="background-color: white; color: #006621; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 16px; white-space: nowrap;">.com</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">The best deli for fresh fruit and everything else was Essen </span>http://www.yelp.ca/biz/essen-slow-fast-food-new-york<br />
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<b>The Budget</b><br />
<b> Estimate Actual</b><br />
<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 317px;"><colgroup><col style="mso-width-alt: 8021; mso-width-source: userset; width: 188pt;" width="188"></col><col style="mso-width-alt: 2730; mso-width-source: userset; width: 64pt;" width="64"></col><col style="mso-width-alt: 2773; mso-width-source: userset; width: 65pt;" width="65"></col></colgroup><tbody>
<tr height="15" style="height: 15.0pt;"><td class="xl64" height="15" style="height: 15.0pt;">Package Tour</td>
<td align="right" class="xl63"> $2,715.00 </td>
<td align="right" class="xl63"> $2,715.00 </td>
</tr>
<tr height="15" style="height: 15.0pt;">
<td class="xl64" height="15" style="height: 15.0pt;">Airfare Delta used its</td>
<td align="right" class="xl63"> $400.00 </td>
<td align="right" class="xl63"> $131.00 </td>
</tr>
<tr height="15" style="height: 15.0pt;">
<td class="xl64" height="15" style="height: 15.0pt;">Taxi to & from shuttle</td>
<td align="right" class="xl63"> $36.00 </td>
<td align="right" class="xl63"> $35.00 </td>
</tr>
<tr height="15" style="height: 15.0pt;">
<td class="xl64" height="15" style="height: 15.0pt;">Shuttle to & from Seatac</td>
<td align="right" class="xl63"> $100.00 </td>
<td align="right" class="xl63"> $94.00 </td>
</tr>
<tr height="15" style="height: 15.0pt;">
<td class="xl64" height="15" style="height: 15.0pt;">Food & admissions</td>
<td align="right" class="xl63"> $350.00 </td>
<td align="right" class="xl63"> $700.00 </td>
</tr>
<tr height="15" style="height: 15.0pt;">
<td class="xl64" height="15" style="height: 15.0pt;">Shopping - top and scarf from Anthropologie, books</td>
<td class="xl63"></td>
<td class="xl63"></td>
</tr>
<tr height="15" style="height: 15.0pt;">
<td class="xl64" height="15" style="height: 15.0pt;">Taxi to & from JFK</td>
<td align="right" class="xl63"> $120.00 </td>
<td align="right" class="xl63"> $150.00 </td>
</tr>
<tr height="15" style="height: 15.0pt;">
<td class="xl64" height="15" style="height: 15.0pt;">Extra night $295 US x 1/2</td>
<td align="right" class="xl63"> $150.00 </td>
<td align="right" class="xl63"> $174.53 </td>
</tr>
<tr height="15" style="height: 15.0pt;">
<td class="xl66" height="15" style="height: 15.0pt;">Total</td>
<td align="right" class="xl65"> <b>$3,871.00 </b></td>
<td align="right" class="xl65"><b> $3,999.53 </b></td>
</tr>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><b><br /></b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><b>The Program</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12.000000pt; font-weight: 700;">NEW YORK WITH WEEDS 2014 ITINERARY
</span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12.000000pt; font-weight: 700;">Saturday, March 15th
</span><br />
<span style="color: rgb(6.670000%, 33.330000%, 80.000000%); font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12.000000pt; font-weight: 700;">KITANO HOTEL
</span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'ArialMT'; font-size: 12.000000pt;">66 Park Ave<br />
Event: </span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12.000000pt; font-weight: 700;">George Cables Trio<br />
</span><span style="font-family: 'ArialMT'; font-size: 12.000000pt;">Included: show, dinner, tax and tip
</span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12.000000pt; font-weight: 700;">ALLEN ROOM at JAZZ AT LINCOLN CENTER
</span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'ArialMT'; font-size: 12.000000pt;">3 Columbus Circle<br />Event: </span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12.000000pt; font-weight: 700;">Maria Schneider Jazz Orchestra
</span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'ArialMT'; font-size: 12.000000pt;">Included: show
</span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12.000000pt; font-weight: 700;">Sunday, March 16th
</span><br />
<span style="color: rgb(6.670000%, 33.330000%, 80.000000%); font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12.000000pt; font-weight: 700;">THE AMERICAN LEGION HALL
</span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'ArialMT'; font-size: 12.000000pt;">248 W 132nd St<br />
Event: </span><span style="color: rgb(6.670000%, 33.330000%, 80.000000%); font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12.000000pt; font-weight: 700;">Seleno Clark and The Harlem Groove </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'ArialMT'; font-size: 12.000000pt;">Included: show, dinner, tax and tip
</span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12.000000pt; font-weight: 700;">Monday, March 17th
</span><br />
<span style="color: rgb(6.670000%, 33.330000%, 80.000000%); font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12.000000pt; font-weight: 700;">ACAPPELLA RESTAURANT
</span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'ArialMT'; font-size: 12.000000pt;">1 Hudson Street<br />
Event: </span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12.000000pt; font-weight: 700;">Dinner and talk by veteran jazz producer Michael Cuscana </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'ArialMT'; font-size: 12.000000pt;">Included: 2 course meal, open bar (beer and wine, from 3:30 5:30)
</span></div>
</div>
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<img alt="page1image12312" height="0.750000" src="file:///page1image12312" width="121.371075" />
</div>
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<img alt="page1image12584" height="0.750000" src="file:///page1image12584" width="89.994150" />
</div>
<div class="section">
<img alt="page1image12856" height="0.750000" src="file:///page1image12856" width="113.361300" />
</div>
<div class="section">
<img alt="page1image13128" height="0.750000" src="file:///page1image13128" width="176.660175" />
</div>
<div class="section">
<img alt="page1image13400" height="0.750000" src="file:///page1image13400" width="211.400400" />
</div>
<div class="section">
<img alt="page1image13672" height="0.750000" src="file:///page1image13672" width="115.353525" />
</div>
<div class="section">
<img alt="page1image13944" height="0.750000" src="file:///page1image13944" width="159.333975" />
</div>
</div>
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<div class="section">
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12.000000pt; font-weight: 700;">Tuesday, March 18th
</span><br />
<span style="color: rgb(6.670000%, 33.330000%, 80.000000%); font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12.000000pt; font-weight: 700;">KLAVIERHAUS
</span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'ArialMT'; font-size: 12.000000pt;">211 West 58th St # A<br />
Event: </span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12.000000pt; font-weight: 700;">Live recording with Vancouver saxophonist Steve Kaldestad featuring
Renee Rosnes piano, Peter Washington bass and Lewis Nash drums
</span><span style="font-family: 'ArialMT'; font-size: 12.000000pt;">Included: concert and post show meal including tax and tip (see below
</span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'ArialMT'; font-size: 12.000000pt;">*we will then head for a meal from 4:30 to 7:00 at </span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12.000000pt; font-weight: 700;">THE CARNEGIE DELI
</span><span style="font-family: 'ArialMT'; font-size: 12.000000pt;">*and will head back for a live recording with The John Webber Quartet</span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12.000000pt; font-weight: 700;">Wednesday, March 19th
</span><br />
<span style="color: rgb(6.670000%, 33.330000%, 80.000000%); font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12.000000pt; font-weight: 700;">JAZZ RECORD CENTER </span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12.000000pt; font-style: italic;">*optional activity<br />
</span><span style="font-family: 'ArialMT'; font-size: 12.000000pt;">236 West 26 Street, #804 (between 7th & 8th Avenues)<br />
Event: shopping for books, records, cds, tshirts and all things jazz
</span><br />
<span style="color: rgb(6.670000%, 33.330000%, 80.000000%); font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12.000000pt; font-weight: 700;">SMOKE JAZZ CLUB
</span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'ArialMT'; font-size: 12.000000pt;">2751 Broadway<br />
Event: </span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12.000000pt; font-weight: 700;">Cory Weeds Quintet featuring Steve Davis CD RELEASE<br />
</span><span style="font-family: 'ArialMT'; font-size: 12.000000pt;">Included: two course dinner, show, tax and tip
</span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12.000000pt; font-weight: 700;">Thursday, March 20th
</span><br />
<span style="color: rgb(6.670000%, 33.330000%, 80.000000%); font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12.000000pt; font-weight: 700;">SMALL’S JAZZ CLUB
</span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'ArialMT'; font-size: 12.000000pt;">183 W. 10th St.<br />
Event: The Joshua Bruneau Quintet live recording * the first set is private </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'ArialMT'; font-size: 12.000000pt;">Included: show, one drink, tax and tip
</span></div>
</div>
<div class="section">
<img alt="page2image14928" height="0.750000" src="file:///page2image14928" width="118.705050" />
</div>
<div class="section">
<img alt="page2image15200" height="0.750000" src="file:///page2image15200" width="86.671875" />
</div>
<div class="section">
<img alt="page2image15472" height="0.750000" src="file:///page2image15472" width="136.705050" />
</div>
<div class="section">
<img alt="page2image15744" height="0.750000" src="file:///page2image15744" width="138.005850" />
</div>
<div class="section">
<img alt="page2image16016" height="0.750000" src="file:///page2image16016" width="114.000000" />
</div>
<div class="section">
<img alt="page2image16288" height="0.750000" src="file:///page2image16288" width="124.031250" />
</div>
<div class="section">
<img alt="page2image16560" height="0.750000" src="file:///page2image16560" width="122.660175" />
</div>
</div>
<br />
<div class="column">
<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12.000000pt; font-weight: 700;">Friday, March 21st<br />
VINCENT HERRING’S HOUSE<br />
</span><span style="font-family: 'ArialMT'; font-size: 12.000000pt;">803 East 17th Street, Brooklyn<br />
Event: </span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12.000000pt; font-weight: 700;">The Vincent Herring Quintet featuring legendary drummer JIMMY COBB,
Ronnie Cuber baritone sax, Vincent Herring alto sax, David Williams bass and
Mike LeDonne piano<br />
</span><span style="font-family: 'ArialMT'; font-size: 12.000000pt;">Included: bbq lunch, beer, wine, show
</span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12.000000pt; font-weight: 700;">5th Estate
</span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'ArialMT'; font-size: 12.000000pt;">506 5th Ave, Brooklyn<br />
Event: </span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12.000000pt; font-weight: 700;">The Seamus Blake Quartet<br />
</span><span style="font-family: 'ArialMT'; font-size: 12.000000pt;">Included: show
</span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12.000000pt; font-weight: 700;">Saturday, March 22nd</span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12.000000pt; font-weight: 700;">KATHLEEN’S TEA ROOM
</span><span style="font-family: 'ArialMT'; font-size: 12.000000pt;">979 Main St, Peekskill, NY</span><br />
<span style="font-family: ArialMT; font-size: 12pt;">Event: </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt; font-weight: 700;">THE ALEXIS COLE TRIO</span><br />
<span style="font-family: ArialMT; font-size: 12pt;">Included: brunch, show, tax and tip </span></div>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span>
<br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5362836571723446424.post-20581442902572104942014-04-27T09:25:00.001-07:002014-04-27T09:25:27.481-07:00The Silk Road & Iceland May 1-June 17, 2014 - Before<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Back in 1974, I didn't go overland from Europe to Australia and I should have. I thought I'd be back soon, but I let life intervene. </span><div>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">After much postponing, I booked the Silk Road Grand Caravan through Sundowners (out of Australia). Now there's 4 days to go, and I am dithering over last minute items. Do I need/have room for: a new smaller brighter flashlight, a smaller umbrella, a mug with lid, a towel and should it be new micro fibre, just an old terry rag from home, or maybe 1 or 2 old linen tea towels, a dual voltage charger for my kindle instead of relying on doing it through my laptop? a back-up Australian plug adaptor ….</span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><b>The Plane Ticket</b></span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Carolyn at Mondo Travel pieced together an excellent RTW ticket. </span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Vancouver to Beijing -- Air China</span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Istanbul to Frankfurt -- Turkish Airlines</span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Germany to Iceland to Vancouver -- Icelandic Air</span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Hence the 2-day stopover in Iceland (add $1,000 to budget for the hotel/tour package that).</span></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><b>Getting the Visas</b></span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">The visa logistics have been complex and expensive but with help from the wonderful Tunde at SIAT, I have all my visas. After much back and forth and changing of information, it turns out I only need 3 visas in advance. Uzbekistan, Iran, and China. I am taking 6 extra passport photos just in case.</span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><b>Packing</b></span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">I am going to 10 countries, and the weather will be cold (Ireshtum Pass, Iceland), hot (China, Iran) and everything in between. Through much of the trip, it will be difficult to get basic OTC meds, toilet paper, etc. There are at least 7 nights on trains (sharing cabins, minimal facilities). Also, I need to be completely shrouded for the Iran portion of the trip. </span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">I am taking my trusty Briggs & Riley 20-inch wide body. I checked out rolling back-packs, but really they are not much bigger than my carry-on or they are as big as my medium Briggs & Riley suitcase. It will be perfect for the train as there is not much space for luggage and I will be able to carry it or roll it across borders if I have to.</span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"> </span></div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5362836571723446424.post-2257404504439114622014-03-05T08:45:00.002-08:002014-04-27T08:33:33.912-07:00Palm Springs Modernist Week Feb.13-19, 2014<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><b>Clearing the Back-log</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">This year I am able to continue to clear the back-log of much-postponed
trips. I am not putting anything off. I just book the trip and don't worry about money or whether it's too much travel or whatever. </span><br />
<div>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">The reasons for the
backlog include unpredictable timing of contract work and tenant
change-overs and helping my dad when he was sick. I had not been able to book trips in
advance, which automatically precluded trips than need advance booking or planning. Now I am retired and dad passed away early last year, so I am free to do anything I want.</span><br />
<br /></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">One of the events I have wanted to attend for many years is the Palm Springs Modernist Week in February every year. </span><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">This trip and a few others recently have been surprisingly complex regarding logistics. You would think a trip to Palm Springs would be relatively easy.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><b>Booking the Tours</b> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">The Palm Springs Modernist Week house tours
and hotels book up in way in advance (by early October). I was away in Europe last October so I asked my friend to book the events and tours and we booked a hotel last summer already. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><b>Using an Enhanced Drivers License (EDL)</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">I planned 3 other trips for the first 3 months of 2014 (Ethiopia, Palm Springs, New York) before I booked a trip to Asia in May. The I didn't realize at that time that I would be without my passport for several months while I was getting the visas for the Asia trip. You need a passport to fly to the US but you can cross overland using an Enhanced Drivers License (EDL). So I applied for that last summer (between other trips) so I'd have it in time for my Palm Springs and New York trips. And I had to book flights out of Seattle and take the shuttle bus from Vancouver to Seatac.</span><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"> See post on Visa Logistics.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Finally, February came and I crossed the border by QuickShuttle bus and checked in at Seatac.</span><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"> The EDL part </span><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">went very
smoothly.</span><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">The bus driver used a hand held gizmo to read the chip on the EDL. The US border officials did same, as did security Seatac (Seattle International Airport).</span><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"> Getting back into Canada went equally well except there was no staff at the Canadian border to process us and the bus was full so we had to wait an hour. Left Seatac at 3 pm and arrived 12th & Granville in Vancouver at 9:30 pm. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><b>Taking the Bus</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Next time, I will consider driving and paying for parking, which must be cheaper as the round trip bus ticket was $96 CAD. The bus is slow, expensive, the WIFI doesn't work, and the timing of departures means you have to leave many hours before your flight (5 am for a flight at noon). I had to take a taxi to 12th and Granville and stand outside in the freezing rain for 30 minutes at 5 am and of course no coffee shops open there. You also cannot get off the bus at any point even while waiting at the border, which means still no coffee and no respite from the horrible washroom smells for 6 or more hours. Some of the bus drivers are just peculiar and some are just downright rude and unhelpful. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><b>Packing</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">After Ethiopia, I have been travelling with carry-on only. See post on Packing.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Palm Springs is casual and it was fairly warm, so a selection of pants, shorts, tops, and a light jacket were all I needed. Keen walking shoes for hiking, Keen sandals for everything else. A hat. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><b>The Hotel</b></span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">I met up with some friends who drove in from Green Valley, Arizona, where they own a retirement home. My friend booked a great hotel right in old Palm Springs. On the expensive side but I didn't have to rent a car as my friends had theirs.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">The Old Ranch Inn was historic (50's) great, although I find those courtyard
hotels a bit claustrophobic. I can’t get any fresh air without opening the doors,
which is a privacy and a safety concern.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The location right off Palm Canyon Drive was perfect.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> The owners Larry and Ed are super friendly and helpful. </span><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><b>The Tours and Other Activities</b></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">The modern house tours were fabulous, and well worth the trip.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">The weather was quite hot but not too hot.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">We went for dinner at some friends of my friends house in Palm Dessert, an all new, upscale, car oriented development. There is a market area called Old Palm Dessert which is about 8 years old --- you get the picture.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">I am not positive, but I think Palm Springs is a desert
when it comes to food.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The grocery
stores are big box, and produce is plastic.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The restaurants are nothing special either.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But the atmosphere on Palm Canyon Drive is
lively and fun.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">The atmosphere is very California (eccentric, ball cap, and lounge suit
class) as opposed to Arizona (staid retirees).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Lots of gay guys of course,
which accounts for the liveliness and design aesthetic, plus the grey haired
crowd tottering around and going for the early bird special. The more staid and well-off retired golf crowd stay around Palm Dessert.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Other things we did:</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
</div>
<ul>
<li><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; text-indent: -18pt;">double decker bus tour (you get to look over the
hedges and walls of the houses and vintage hotels).</span><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; text-indent: -18pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; text-indent: -18pt;">All the modernist buildings (banks, stores, movie star homes) were pointed out and architect, owner, and other history were provided. Great start to the week</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; text-indent: -18pt;">guided hike into Taquitz Canyon to the falls on native land. Nice change and interesting but heavily travelled trails. The hippies took it over a few years back but it's all reclaimed and all the junk has been removed</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; text-indent: -18pt;">Art Fair in the convention centre (lo</span><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; text-indent: -18pt;">ts of big names and expensive pieces, quite unexpected)</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; text-indent: -18pt;">Palm Springs art gallery - a gem, a must-do</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; text-indent: -18pt;">Annenberg Estate tour</span><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; text-indent: -18pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; text-indent: -18pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; text-indent: -18pt;">- 200 acres, golf course, Obama visited over the weekend.</span><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; text-indent: -18pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; text-indent: -18pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; text-indent: -18pt;">Loved the house modeled after Chitzen Itza, and the Mayan Fountain in the entry way.</span><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; text-indent: -18pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; text-indent: -18pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; text-indent: -18pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; text-indent: -18pt;">No palm trees, lots of olives, eucalyptus, and the like.</span><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; text-indent: -18pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; text-indent: -18pt;"> </span></li>
</ul>
<div style="text-indent: -24px;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><b><br /></b></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><b>The Budget</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"> <b><i>Estimate Actual</i></b></span><br />
<br />
<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 317px;">
<!--StartFragment-->
<colgroup><col style="mso-width-alt: 8021; mso-width-source: userset; width: 188pt;" width="188"></col>
<col style="mso-width-alt: 2730; mso-width-source: userset; width: 64pt;" width="64"></col>
<col style="mso-width-alt: 2773; mso-width-source: userset; width: 65pt;" width="65"></col>
</colgroup><tbody>
<tr height="15" style="height: 15.0pt;">
<td class="xl64" height="15" style="height: 15.0pt; width: 188pt;" width="188"><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Hotel
1130.64 USD - 6 nights</span></td>
<td align="right" class="xl63" style="width: 64pt;" width="64"><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"> $1,130.64 </span></td>
<td align="right" class="xl63" style="width: 65pt;" width="65"><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"> $1,267.65 </span></td>
</tr>
<tr height="15" style="height: 15.0pt;">
<td class="xl64" height="15" style="height: 15.0pt;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Airfare</span></td>
<td align="right" class="xl63"><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"> $441.00 </span></td>
<td align="right" class="xl63"><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"> $478.96 </span></td>
</tr>
<tr height="15" style="height: 15.0pt;">
<td class="xl64" height="15" style="height: 15.0pt;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Food & Misc.</span></td>
<td align="right" class="xl63"><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"> $500.00 </span></td>
<td align="right" class="xl63"><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"> $290.00 </span></td>
</tr>
<tr height="15" style="height: 15.0pt;">
<td class="xl64" height="15" style="height: 15.0pt;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Misc. - 2 gurglepots 86.40 US</span></td>
<td class="xl63"></td>
<td align="right" class="xl63"><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"> $100.00 </span></td>
</tr>
<tr height="15" style="height: 15.0pt;">
<td class="xl64" height="15" style="height: 15.0pt;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Taxi to & from 12th & Cambie</span></td>
<td class="xl63"></td>
<td align="right" class="xl63"><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"> $36.00 </span></td>
</tr>
<tr height="15" style="height: 15.0pt;">
<td class="xl64" height="15" style="height: 15.0pt;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Event Registration $315 US</span></td>
<td align="right" class="xl63"><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"> $340.00 </span></td>
<td align="right" class="xl63"><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"> $340.00 </span></td>
</tr>
<tr height="15" style="height: 15.0pt;">
<td class="xl64" height="15" style="height: 15.0pt;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Shuttle to & from Seatac</span></td>
<td align="right" class="xl63"><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"> $100.00 </span></td>
<td align="right" class="xl63"><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"> $94.00 </span></td>
</tr>
<tr height="15" style="height: 15.0pt;">
<td class="xl66" height="15" style="height: 15.0pt;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Total</span></td>
<td align="right" class="xl65"><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"> <b><i>$2,511.64 </i></b></span></td>
<td align="right" class="xl65"><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><b><i> $2,606.61 </i></b></span></td>
</tr>
<!--EndFragment-->
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><b><br /></b></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><b><br /></b></span>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5362836571723446424.post-47993391974388282342014-02-12T22:00:00.001-08:002014-04-27T12:36:18.633-07:00Ethiopia Highlights (2014)<div style="background-color: white; font-family: georgia, serif; font-size: 16px;">
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Ethiopia was quite amazing --- a rough trip, but I am glad I went before it all changes. </div>
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Most of the country has not changed for a 1,000 years -- little fields, donkeys, cattle, goats, primitive tools. They thresh right in the field with cattle walking on a little clear circle in the dirt marked out with stones. I guess after that they sweep it up. They also make fermented drinks in a dirt hole in the ground --- all very very primitive. </div>
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Most of the country is at high altitudes. We were usually between 2200 and 3200 meters, and breathing especially on the uphill was a struggle. They are damming rivers for electricity but there is no industry there to use it, and the people have no money to buy anything so there is nothing to buy. They export some agricultural products, such as coffee and flowers (grown in greenhouses).</div>
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Extremely dusty, very poor (poorer than India), very high altitude, bad food, simple hotels (they don't sweep the yard and keep things clean like in India). The dust in Addis and on the roads is so horrendous I had to wear a scarf over my face, and I immediately became sick with a head and chest cold. Addis looks like they just had an earthquake, and walking around is a challenge, not to mention breathing. </div>
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We found the best restaurant in the country. It's called Casteli's and has been run by the same Italian family for 100 years. The antipasti is the best I've had anywhere in the world. All we could think of was going back for more. </div>
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The country houses are all the round mud African style type. Eucalyptus poles upright, then mud and straw plaster. Straw roof. That's it.</div>
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The history and archeology are something to see and it is largely unprotected. UNESCO is helping with some roofs over a couple of the churches and they have moved the people living on top of some of the sites to nice clusters of concrete block houses with metal roofs. The churches are carved out of rock and under ground level to hide them from attack. Quite unusual. Inside there are ancient paintings of Bible stories. Some awful restorations have been attempted, but largely the churches and monasteries are original.</div>
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They say Petra doesn't compare so I am very glad to have seen the wonders of Ethiopia. </div>
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The Timkat festival was a lot of fun, and the crowds were friendly and gentle even in the worst presses. They bring out the Ark of the Covenant from the local church (every church has one) and parade around the town for hours. The music is fantastic. </div>
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You seldom see any westerners anywhere, only the odd tourist. </div>
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The roads are really bad so we usually flew between places (no reserved seats). </div>
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The whole country is a high, dry and stony plateau, with deep canyons cut into it, not peaked mountains as we know them (rocks, trees, snow), more like Arizona but way bigger and higher. </div>
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In Lalibela, there is a retired Scottish woman Susan who started a restaurant there instead of going back home to be an OAP. It's on the edge of a canyon, made of concrete in the shape of a flower. So you are sitting on a concrete lily pad way high up, drinking awful local gin and fresh lemonade watching the sunset. You can sort of see for miles over the canyons through but the horrible dust. Her cuisine is stuff like shepherd's pie, which is very welcome after a week of tragically bad local food. </div>
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The country has had some really bad times, with the Italians, Haile Selassie and famine, and then the Derg (communists), all very violent times with many deaths. </div>
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There are loads and loads of monks, nuns, and priests, all living off the very poor people. </div>
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Apparently, FGM is still practices on 75% of girls by both Christians and Muslims. Barbaric. </div>
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We were invited to a celebration of the death of a person in one remote village where we visited the ancient church. The celebration is held a year later, after the family has raised the money for the feast. We drank and ate the food and alcoholic drink out of politeness, but it was pretty awful. </div>
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The coffee is the best in the world and it is quite a prolonged process to make it but worth the wait. First they make the charcoal, then roast the coffee, then grind the coffee with a stone grinder, then boil the coffee. Often they make popcorn to serve with it or while you are waiting (?) Then they put some charcoal in a dish and add incense. It is a wonderful smell but very smoky. They do this indoors including in the airport as well as outdoors. By this time everybody's asthma is so bad from the dust that the smoke isn't a further bother. </div>
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Another high point is the music -- from singing in the churches starting at 4 am, to the many weddings in the hotel grounds with African music and dancing, to the traditional songs and shoulder dancing, all wonderful. </div>
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Another interesting and sad aspect is the high rate of addiction to khat. Most of the men use it, and especially down in Harar, you see them lying on the ground passed out all over, after their sprees. We went to the biggest khat market in Africa, very aggressive people who touch you all over and push you around and even drag you into their stall, but LM was right in the middle taking photos. </div>
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On the other hand, they only have 7% rate of AIDs (which is really low for Africa), which is probably because they don't have trucks shipping goods to/from the country -- no money to buy anything.</div>
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So, yes I would go back to see more --- a very unusual trip. If you go, take a full medical kit, lots of toilet paper, and scarves to wrap around your face for the dust and pollution. </div>
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Actually, through a wonderful young Chinese-Canadian couple, I discovered the best remedy for diarrhea ever. It is a herbal remedy called Seirogan (made in Japan). I found it in Vancouver at the Beijing Trading Company in Chinatown. It has a powerful creosote like door but I am told they make tablets. Now to track those down.<br />
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The tour company was Explore and our guide was fantastic at organizing and taking care of the many medical emergencies. She'd never been to Ethiopia though, and I was very disappointed not to get a lot more information about the country. Not really a personable or fun person either, just did the minimum -- got us to the places she was required to get us to. The absolute opposite to the India guides and Turkey guide I've had with Imaginative Traveller in the social side. Unfortunately, I am not any more impressed with Explore than I was after my long ago Egypt trip. <br />
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For pre-trip logistics, see the previous post on Getting Ready to go to Ethiopia.</div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5362836571723446424.post-19468091710719186932013-12-31T19:25:00.002-08:002014-04-27T10:54:04.920-07:00Getting Ready to Go to Ethiopia Jan.10-26,2014<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">I signed up for this tour of Ethiopia (Blue Nile & Lalibela) with Explore blindly, because my Aussie friend was going. </span>https://www.explore.co.uk/holidays/ethiopia-historic-tour<br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">I have the guide books, culture and history books, and maps ready to read and get up to speed. They remain on the coffee table untouched, in stark rebuke when I do my morning stretches on the rug in the living room. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">No matter, I am a fast reader and it's a 22-hour flight from Vancouver via Istanbul to Addis Ababa. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><b>Logistics -- Medical, Flights</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">I've travelled a lot, but this trip will be very different --- both hot and cold weather (mountains), more complex than usual visa and money requirements. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Yellow fever shot required. Many others recommended but I don't bother. Expensive. I go to the Travel Clinic --- they have all my records. </span><cite class="_nd" style="background-color: white; color: #006621; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: small; font-style: normal; line-height: 16px; white-space: nowrap;"><b>travelclinic</b>.vch.ca/</cite><span style="background-color: white; color: grey; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: x-small; line-height: 16px; white-space: nowrap;"></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">I have retirement medical benefits which cover me for everything up to 60 days. That saves me a lot of money getting medical insurance for all my travel.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">I flew Turkish Airlines via Istanbul, the cheapest and the shortest. </span><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">I considered a stop in Istanbul on the way back, but adding on to each trip is expensive, and it's another airport hassle (get luggage, get transport to hotel, transport back to airport, security, check-in, etc.). The other option is UAE airlines via Dubai, but it takes longer and I didn't care to add a stopover.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><b>The Tour Company</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Many changes to the itinerary and much confusion with Explore staff contradicting themselves over and over, only to issue a "final" clarifying communique (different again for my friend and for me), which contradicts itself within the message, and then is immediately changed again. Don't get me started on the Tour Notes. Oh well, we are there two nights in advance so we an sort everything out I am sure. I always have a good time, and my friend is also a very resilient traveller.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><b>Why Africa and Ethiopia</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">It will be only my second Africa trip. The first one to Egypt was years ago (coincidentally with Explore and that time half the group was stranded in Zagreb when our onward flight was cancelled and the next one was a week later). I guess I am working my way down the continent. I am not as curious about Africa as many people I know, who call Africa "their continent", but I am hoping that it will catch me. I went to India for educational reasons --- I thought I "should" see what other people live like (not expecting to like it) and fell in love with it, so you never know. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Anyway, I want to "know" Africa, make it my own, recognize places on the news, visualize places mentioned in books or conversations, know the food and the people, pick up some Swahili. I do work hard to make each trip personal and not the normal tourist track.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">This tour takes place during the Timkat Festival, which is very special time to go I understand. It is a very ancient Christian country and I believe this is Epiphany. Although I went to church all through childhood, somehow the meaning of Epiphany did not stick. Another learning experience to come. I wonder if there are Mennonites there. Where there is famine, refugees, or disaster, the MCC (Mennonite Central Committee) is there, first on the ground. I don't expect to encounter any Mennonites however as the refugee camps are usually not near the tourist attractions.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><b>Packing</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Packing is always as easy or as stressful as I make it. I am going to try to go with the small Briggs and Riley Transcend 20" wide body (not my usual Briggs 26" upright), even though I will check it through. We take a lot of internal flights so it might be easier. But, there are no restrictions other than being able to carry your own luggage. I have seriously considered Briggs & Riley BRX or a Thule rolling duffle but as always, the small is too small, the medium too big. The BRX has very cute matching day knapsacks but I hate knapsacks (another post on this).</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Travelling with carry-on only requires some serious changes. I usually take a lot of reading material for example. I have a Kindle now so that's a big step. Toiletry bottles and tubes are usually too big for carry-on. I prefer not to have to decant toiletries into 100 ml. containers --- it's never enough or it's too much and it's wasted. Plus you have to pull the case around the airport with you.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">I take only Keen walking shoes and Keen sandals (to the horror of my fashionista hair stylist). I can walk forever in these so there's no matter what they look like or what I am wearing, the shoes are the shoes. I can reduce clothing and just wash underwear and tops often. I am inspired by Save Spend Splurge (she wears only Birkenstocks and travels with only carry-on) to try.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><b>The Budget</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">The cost estimate and actual for this trip is as follows: (I must learn how to make tables):</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Tour - land costs $3,000. (there's a premium because of the higher costs during Timkat)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Flight $1,556. (Turkish airline came out the cheapest, with best times, and shortest travel time). </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Yellow Fever Vaccine $170.00</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Visa (on arrival) $20 US</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Medical Insurance $00 (I have coverage under my retirement benefits)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">In country, food, tip for guide, kitty Est. $1,000. Actual $583 ($400 food, etc. $50 tip kitty, $80 guide tip)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Hotels Est. $100. US (my half of hotels for first two nights) Actual $105 US + $22 for WIFI = $151.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Total Est. $5,906. Actual $5,560.</span><br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5362836571723446424.post-3581234279289230952013-12-23T18:51:00.000-08:002013-12-23T19:23:56.384-08:00Blogging Anxiety and Road Laundry Tips<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">I get my ideas for posts from reading other blogs. My reaction is --- oh that's a great idea, but I have some better or alternative ideas. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">I am surmising that the really great bloggers have drafts of posts and a list of ideas and a detailed schedule for publishing them. I am a helter skelter blogger. I see something on a blog, which gives me the topic, and then I draft mine, edit it, and save it. For some of my blogs I publish straight away, after polishing. For others I save them and dither about publishing on this topic at all. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Most of all, the amazing bloggers out there really intimidate me --- I'm embarrassed to publish my ideas and afraid I can't keep up the responses to comments and comments on other blogs. Right now, my dilemma is the order of things. Laundry tips --- really? I should be publishing travelogues or tips on getting cheap flights. I really should take more pictures.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">But I am not. So here goes, dunny's laundry tips inspired by Travelista. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">I pack enough underwear, socks, and tops to last 3 to 14 days. Depending on the type of trip, and how I am travelling, I pack more or fewer clothing items. If I am travelling by car or just need to transport my case on arrival and departure, or staying with friends, I pack more clothes and take a bigger suitcase. It will depend on how far I and how often I have to lug that suitcase. Twice (airport to hotel/friend's house, and back again) in total, or twice a day (into hotel from car, back out to car), or pulling/lugging on/off trains, down gravel/cobble stones, up/down many steps.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">I do laundry in my hotel bathroom every time I am in one place for more than one night. If I am staying with friends or in places with laundromats (e.g. on my friend's boat in a marina), I do a big machine laundry then. Sending clothes to laundry service is chancy because it usually takes at least 24 hours. Things seem to come back dirtier or a different colour (machines and soap in other countries are tough on clothes). </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">In order to keep the laundry routine manageable and consider my roommate, I do some laundry every night. If I am sharing with a roommate, I try to be considerate and ask if she will be needing the sink or shower if I am hanging in there, and also not take over the room with my laundry drying.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">First, packing:</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">1. I pack dark colours, lightweight fabrics, and fast dry fabrics. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">2. The easiest fabrics to wash are first, linen and second, cotton. Thick materials can't be washed on the road, unless you happen to find a dryer on the premises. In other countries dryers are not common. The standard is hanging up in fresh air.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">3. I pack a laundry kit in a ziploc bag. The pack includes a sink plug (the flat type), plastic clips with hanger hooks, and soap. The sink plugs are available in travel stores and dollar stores. The clips with hooks are available in dollar stores and are hard to find. I've scour the stores for them, and never lend them to anybody. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">4. The best soap was Biosuds but it is not available any more. It soaks out any dirt out of any fabric in 10 minutes. You can take packets or soap powder or a ziploc of detergent from home, depending on how long you are away. Remember, no liquids over 100 ml on the plane carry-on. One of the many many reasons why I usually check a bag. You can also use the hotel soap bar or pack a small bar.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">5. Wringing out. The best way to wring out the clothes is to roll them in a towel and squeeze very hard. However, in many hotels you only get one towel and using it for laundry means you will not have a dry towel for your shower. Sometimes, I lurk in the hotel hall way and grab extra towels off the cleaner's cart. Travelista has a fabulous idea --- pack a travel towel to use to roll clothes in. These towels dry really fast. I have not tried this, but I will now.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">6. For hanging up, I use the clips with hooks and pack one or two plastic hangers. I find there is seldom a place to attach a wash line. The suction cups do not stick with the weight of wet clothes. I use the clips to hang underwear and socks on any thing -- drawer knobs, door knobs, back of a chair, pretty much anywhere. The hangers are good for blouses or you can just use two of the clips and hang shirts and blouses from the back of a chair or wardrobe door.</span><br />
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What are your blogging anxieties? Do you plan your posts months in advance? Do you alternate types of topics, e.g. financial topic, followed by a lighter topic? <br />
<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5362836571723446424.post-9547213906154952212013-08-24T22:45:00.000-07:002013-12-31T22:23:16.455-08:00This Year So Far, Where to Next and Visa Logistics<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">I</span><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">'ve wound up my freelance writing business, dealt with illness and death in the family, finished a construction project, rented out part of my house, and am finally ready to get on the road more or less permanently.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">In April, I went south to the arms of great friends in Arizona, who reconstituted me after a year of many trips to Manitoba to take care of family matters. I thought I was ready for the Uzbekistan after that but I was still not completely recovered physically. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><img border="0" height="256" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IvebDrMQJGY/Uhmi4kKo8xI/AAAAAAAAAK4/VA766UYCUEs/s320/c_khiva_02.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="320" /></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Khiva, Uzbekistan</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">
</span><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IvebDrMQJGY/Uhmi4kKo8xI/AAAAAAAAAK4/VA766UYCUEs/s1600/c_khiva_02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">In May, I went on a fascinating trip to Uzbekistan with a stopover in Istanbul. This tour was very special study tour, tracing a group of Mennonites that had immigrated there in the 1880's from Ukraine. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">The tour company was TourMagination, which did an excellent job. Going on a tour of this type provides an experience that no other tourists or travellers get. We met local people that we certainly would not have met otherwise (such as a museum director who had done his Phd. thesis on the subject of Russian Mennonites, and a local imam whose forebears remembered the Mennonites and who still had artifacts and photos), and visited small villages, met villagers, etc. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Uzbekistan is an interesting juxtaposition of a Muslim population under a Communist government, mainly secular still. The country is quite modern in many ways, especially Tashkent and the educational and medical systems, but you see donkeys and women covered in scarves and long dresses hacking away in fields with mattock like implements outside the cities. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">There are numerous well-preserved madrases and mosques with stunning blue and green tile work, and wonderful mud-walled cities and fortresses. The land had a cotton monoculture forced on it by the USSR, requiring extensive irrigation in a desert, which has and is causing environmental havoc. Wonderfully, there is great WIFI everywhere.</span><br />
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I learned a few logistical things about visas on this trip. An Uzbekistan visa must be obtained in advance by sending your passport to New York. You need a letter of invitation from a tour agency in the country, which is obtained by your Canadian tour company. In my case, this document was very late because the company in Canada made errors in the paperwork. I had booked a trip to Arizona in the month before the Uzbekistan trip, before I was told about the visa requirements, so I needed my passport for that trip (thus could not send it to New York). I had a very narrow margin of safety to get my U. visa but I did get it. It was expensive and complex to get that visa and I thank Tunde at SIAT for handling the application process so well. It came in the nick of time for my trip. It was very expensive, $356. because I had to pay an expediting fee as well as the agency fee. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">The second learning experience was concerning flights, which were very inconvenient. My agent and the tour company kept getting things confused. Too many agents involved. I finally booked an overnight Air Canada to New York via Toronto (never again) myself, and sat in the terminal at JFK all day before finally checking in to Turkish Airlines in the late afternoon (horror airport). </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">All went well after that, until the return trip, which was too much torture. Adjusting to 4 different time zones within 4 weeks, 9 separate flights including 4 overnight flights --- it was a tough one. Despite that, the month was extremely interesting and unique.</span><br />
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On the way back from U., I stopped in New England to visit a couple of friends (1 in Bristol, RI, 1 in Portland, Maine). The highlights were a tour of Yale University in New Haven, CT (complete with eye-opening marketing video) and a tour of Maine College of Art by the my friend, the Head Librarian. It was cold and windy which made the pains worse.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rLcnhOXgG_I/UhmoidXOE2I/AAAAAAAAALI/PmZxDtJO73c/s1600/Yale-University.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rLcnhOXgG_I/UhmoidXOE2I/AAAAAAAAALI/PmZxDtJO73c/s320/Yale-University.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Yale University - Neo Gothic, not very old</span></td></tr>
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I've spent the summer here in Vancouver, relaxing and getting ready for the next few trips. I took numerous lecture-type courses at UBC continuing education, adding even more motivation to travel.</span><br />
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In September, I am off on two-month trip to Europe, starting with a John Atkin's London Perambulator (walking tours). John's a local guy who does courses on local real estate development and urban change and guides walking tours of Vancouver neighbourhoods. http://johnatkin.com/ I'll spend the last few days with an old friend (who met in Egypt many years ago) in London followed by a Eurostar train to Lille, where I pick up a rental car. </span><br />
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There begins a driving marathon. I am determined to go to the places I keep missing when I am not entirely in control of my agenda. First Berlin, then Nancy, France for the Art Nouveau architecture, then exploring the West Coast of France to see whether I'd prefer it to my beloved Languedoc, into Spain to check out the Guggenheim in Bilbao, then down to Tarragona near Barcelona to stay with friends on their catamaran.</span><br />
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I'll be back to Canada for a couple of months. Then in January 2014, I am booked with Explore to tour Ethiopia. I'll be meeting a friend from Oz that I met in India many years ago. We'll be there for the Timkat Festival.</span><br />
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In February 2014, I am going to Palm Springs for Modernist Week. I've been putting that off far too long. I'll be meeting friends there.</span><br />
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In March 2014, I've signed up for Cory Weeds' (Cellar Jazz) Jazz Tour of New York. http://www.cellarjazz.com/</span><br />
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In May/June 2014, I am contemplating a Grand Asia Caravan Tour with Sundowners. There are a couple of logistical issues with this one wrt to visas. There are a number of visas that require my passport to go walkabout again, right when I need it to go to the previously mentioned US trips. So I will be applying for an Enhanced Drivers License from the Motor Vehicle Branch. This also takes as long as 45 days after the initial appointment waiting for the new drivers license, so I don't have time before the trip to Europe where I will need my drivers license. I don't want to rely on the rental car company being okay with a paper interim license which would probably expire while I am in Europe. Using the EDL, I can drive across the border (you can't use it when entering the US by air). I can't start that process until I am back for Europe and I can't make an appointment more than 60 days in advance, but there is quite a wait for an appointment. So, the day I leave for Europe, I will book the appt for the day I return. That should be enough time to get the EDL before I am off to Palm Springs in February. </span><br />
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I considering getting a Nexus pass (which would allow me to fly to the US), but it can take months to be approved to get the interview, the appointments take some time to get, and then it can take months after the interview. The instruction guide for completing the application is 99 pages long. I took three tries to figure out what's required, and gave up. I finally got a good tip -- just to out to the airport to the kiosk there and they help you with the application and answer all questions.</span><br />
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The Grand Asia Caravan starts in Beijing and ends in Turkey, going through 9 countries in all, including Iran. It's a trip of a lifetime. Central Asia has always attracted me because my grandparents lived in the area. I hope someday to go to the villages they lived in in Russia near the Caspian Sea.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">There is yet another logistical issue. Iran has been booted out of Canada and the USA, so it is difficult to travel there for Canadians. There is a travel warning on the government website advising Canadians to avoid travelling to Iran. http://travel.gc.ca/travelling/advisories My instincts tell me to just go, everything will be alright. I never worried about these things years ago (see my previous post, <a href="http://dunontheroad.blogspot.ca/2013/08/travel-ignorance-was-bliss.html" target="_blank">When Ignorance Was Bliss</a>). But then I thought Russia had toilet paper, road and street signs, phone books, food, and gas stations.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">What do you readers think? Would you go?</span>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5362836571723446424.post-54046196719649236992013-08-24T18:54:00.000-07:002013-12-23T19:04:46.845-08:00When Ignorance was Bliss<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-A90kYiV7DLQ/Uhl4j4QR5jI/AAAAAAAAAKk/gGctrFaWfXo/s1600/IMG_2424.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-A90kYiV7DLQ/Uhl4j4QR5jI/AAAAAAAAAKk/gGctrFaWfXo/s320/IMG_2424.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me, France, 2011</td></tr>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">When I backpacked through Europe for a year back in the day, I never gave a thought to any of the things you need today. I never gave any thought to health and safety. I took it for granted.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">I never once considered travel medical insurance or any other kind of insurance. I don't recall getting any vaccinations before hand but I could have forgotten. Likewise, an international driver's license wasn't required although we did have a rental car in the USSR.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">We needed a passport, but got all other visas along the way (except for Russia, which was definitely another story in 1973). Iron curtain countries required a minimum amount of money to be changed at the border but it was only a few dollars.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">We did get a Youth Hostel membership and a gauze travel sheet (much heavier than the lovely silk ones we have now). Other than booking a cabin on the P & O liner to Southhampton via the Panama Canal and the complex advance arrangements with Russian Intourist, we made no advance bookings.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Credit cards and debit cards didn't exist. ATMs didn't exist. Every country had a different currency and a border check-point. British currency hadn't changed to metric. We changed currency at each border. We carried a letter of credit and a list of correspondent banks, which made getting cash extremely cumbersome. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">I never ever checked any travel advisories. There was no internet to check anything on. You could seek out Canadian embassies, but we never did. While we travelled, all kinds of unrest occurred, and we just dodged and ducked. Greece had 4 different governments, including a bloody coup, tanks in the streets, a tourist shot in Omonia Square, a 24-hour curfew in Athens (and they meant business), and night-time curfew on Crete. So we flew to Israel a few weeks after the October war. Nothing like a 100% armed population and war wreckage strewn everywhere to give a person perspective.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">We wrote letters and received letters addressed to Poste Restante at the main post office in cities and towns along the way. We never made a phone call. Cell phones didn't exist. Call boxes did exist but were too complicated. We never needed a phone.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">We heard no news along the way, other than what other travellers told us. All information was exchanged from person to person. You always talked to everyone coming from where you were going to get tips on places to stay, border crossing, whatever you needed to know, and hopefully traded maps and reading material. You talked to people who just came over to find out news from home.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">We never watched TV along the way. We read books, which we traded with other travellers along the way.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Cameras required film and flash bulbs. We carried film rolls with us until we got home. </span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">We carried no electronic appliances, and needed no plug adaptors or dual voltage chargers.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">I don't recall bottled water being common, and we never considered paying for water. We didn't have water bottles.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Wheeled luggage did not exist. We carried everything in backpacks. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">We hitchhiked everywhere, camped in summer, stayed in hostels and cheap hotels in winter. Some people bought vans (usually VW) and drove around Europe camping. We had sleeping bags, a small tent, a tiny one burner stove, and one pot.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Hardly any guidebooks existed and maps could only be obtained in Europe. No travel stores existed. People on the road exchanged parts of guidebooks and there was free information and maps at all . We had Europe on $5 a Day. We relied on my memory, the sun, and instinct to find our way through Russia and Eastern Europe (no maps at all).</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Our budget was $6,000, and we did the whole trip on $5,000. That was for 2 people and included a ship from Vancouver to Southhampton, a rental car in Russia, and flights to and from Greece, Israel, and Tureky. We were lucky enough to get work as movie extras in Israel, which was lucrative in those days. Travel was so cheap then. We were the rich people then. The Europeans were poor. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Most people did not speak English. You had to speak enough of the language of each country to get along.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Turkey was more secular than it is now. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">All of Eastern Europe and East Germany were behind the Iron Curtain and it was serious. I could tell you stories you would never believe.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Travelling is easier now, and I don't regret the changes. But I am sorry the world is more and more the same everywhere. </span><br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1