European Marathon Sept.18-Nov.15, 2013 Parts 1-4

Now I regret not recording details of my trip to Europe last fall Sept - Nov. 2013, so I have to try to remember.  I didn't remember the towns I stayed in the night before when I was there, so it's going to be interesting.

I do remember that all of it was wonderful.   My goals were accomplished.

I learned that I am fine travelling on my own for a lengthy period.
I learned that I can drive half way across Europe and back and it's not too much.
I learned I can navigate on my own with maps, and google print-outs.
I learned I can find reasonable and great hotels easily.
I learned I can manage in German, French, and Spanish.
I learned that I like the comfort and privacy of a hotel room.
I learned that while I like spending time with friends, I like my own agenda too.
I learned that I need much better pillows than the ones in European hotels.  Mattresses are awful too.
I learned that it's not great travelling in cold weather.

I am putting off starting this description, but here goes.

Sept. 18 - flew to London (Gatwick) and took the tube straight to Russell Square.  My hotel was half a block from the tube station (a lovely Art Deco station).  I think it was BA and I am now a member of their air miles club and collecting.  I think I booked that myself.  [check this]

Met my group for the first day of John Atkin's London Perambulator walking tour (see separate post).  I can't remember the details but all the tours were outstanding.   

Here's some of the emails I sent to friends:

Part 1 -- London Perambulator with John Atkin Sept.18-25

Sept. 22, 2013 London
Arrived a few days ago, and have been walking ever since. So far, Bedford Park (delightful suburb), and Open London --- focus on Whitehall area, Ministry of Defence, Banqueting Hall, Royal Courts of Justice (great tour of the goal cells complete with character guards -- very entertaining, low humour). Boat down from Kew to Westminster --- astounding development --- when did this appear? I've never seen those areas, so it was a surprise to me. I am thinking about play tickets now --- might as well see something. I have ticket to Much Ado About Nothing with Vanessa Redgrave and James EArl Jones --- odd juxtapositioning of actors and play but I suppose that's the point. No musicals, can't keep awake. 

You are right, lots of eastern Europeans in London, maybe the whole city. 
Right now, I only need to follow the group around, but in a week or so, I will be multi-tasking and sharp. 

Sept.25, 2013 

London is fantastic.  We are walking all day, having pub lunch, and that sure takes it out of me.   No energy to do anything in the evening.  But the hotel is in a great area.  Our last day of guided walks is today, and tomorrow I will start doing the museums and shopping on my own.  And move to my friend G's place for a few days.   We are sure getting around to all the hidden places and also the suburbs.   And very quaint pubs. 

We went to a play one night.   It was Vanessa Redgrave and James Earl Jones in Much Ado About Nothing.  Embarrassingly bad.  Terrible actually.   These old actors (79 and 82) --- too old I think, esp Jones, but the whole thing was bad.  So, we saw the worst play in London, but that's okay.  One gal in the group is on the board of Bard on the Beach, and she goes to a play every day.  I think she is seeing really good stuff.   Next time, I will do that too.   I have to crank myself into higher gear, I guess I am jaded with life (ha).   This group is pleasant but not partiers, maybe that would take another week or two.   

Anyway, in our 500-year old house tour yesterday we were taken around by 92 year old Dougie, who was fantastic, funny, witty, interesting, quick on his (mental) feet, running up and down, amazing guy.   I think dad would have been like that too.   So, it's not impossible to be hale and hearty well into the 90's.  

Part 2 -- London with GB Sept.26-Oct.1

September 27, 2013 London

With G, saw Chimerica yesterday which was excellent.   Amazing set, great script, pretty good acting, although projecting and enunciating seem to be weak universally.   Musicals --- saw Avenue Q in Vancouver --- everybody raved over it, and how profound the meaning of it, etc., but I found it the same as all musicals --- a couple of sentimental cliches and it's profound --- like poetry and song lyrics.  But it was a clever production with puppets (yes, how can you not love the muppets).   Some people saw the Lion King twice (probably same ones who bought those dolls with life histories years ago).

So, London is spectacular, very changed, but great.   I hope I get a chance to go down to Greenwich, but days are numbered now.  

Today, Ham House --- which will be a nice change --- car riding, instead of pounding the pavements.  

Yesterday, also saw the Lowry exhibit at Tate Britain, the War Museum/Churchill Museum (thank god I had read Jennie Jerome bio and stories about Clemmie and The History of the English Speaking Peoples or I would have come away very naive.   It is a very cleansed presentation.   Good tapes of people who actually worked there.   Apparently it was not safe, a direct hit would have killed them all, but like a lot in the war, they lived on words.   I wish they explained more about the maps as that must have been a huge --- they never turned the lights off in the maps rooms the entire war --- I am fascinated with huge detailed that seem insurmountable.   G. tells me Blechley Park is a good place to go, so I will come back planning a large circle tour including that and Saltaire another day.

Sept. 28, 2013

Well, until now I didn't have any recommendations (for London sights).   But now have seen Chimerica -- which is great.   Playing at Harold Pinter theatre near Leicester Square.   Take the boat down the river --- you will be astounded at the development --- London is now modern.   We mostly did walks in far suburbs.  Saw Eastbury (Elizbethan mansion) one day which was great.   I think you won't be here long, so probably you'll just walk and see the main museums.   If you want to go farther afield, there is Eltham Palace --- a very beautiful Art Deco palace that is complete with all furniture and art and stunning gardens.   

Weather here is pretty warm, but a little cooler every day.   

Oct. 1, 2013
The trip is going great.   London was amazing after all these years.   I saw a lot of new things, and did some oldies.   The worst play in London (Much Ado About Nothing with Vanessa Redgrave and James Earl Jones) and probably the best (Chimerica).   The walking group was a great group but they all went their own way after lunch, mostly to bed, so it was great to stay with G for a few days as she still has some umph in her, but really looking forward to my visit with you for everything good.     

Saw the Lowry exhibit -- I am sure you'd know the paintings --- northern England working class life with lots of stick figures, the Denny Severs house (old old house near charing cross full of old stuff, smells, and lit by candle light), and tour of Charing Cross station area with more stories with G's friend.   Funny and a statement at the same time.   There's SOOOOO much in London, I could stay here for months.   I didn't venture out of town, but next time, must do a driving tour.   

Yesterday I did the V & A (fabulous hunting tapestries of Henry VIII courtiers vandalizing the parks), Michelin house, and Barkers.

Part 3 -- London to Berlin

October 1, 2013 London to Lille

Today - big day --- got myself over to Lille, picked up the car, and drove half way across Europe this afternoon.   It all went like clockwork.   I was planning on a traditional town pub/hotel, and that's just what I got.   The town is Beckum (east of Dortmund).  I picked it off the map because I thought a town with the ending "um" would be a good one.   Apparently it means a very very old town that grew up from a slightly dry spot in the swamps.   Maybe it's not true because this area is higher, but then Munster is close and apparently that is a swampty area with many moated castles. 

Better go for a walk now and then enjoy the haxen and bier.   

Wish you were here.  

Oct. 1, 2013

Today - big day --- got myself over to Lille, picked up the car, and drove half way across Europe this afternoon.   It all went like clockwork -- can't believe how easy each step was.   I was planning on a traditional town pub/hotel, and that's just what I got.   Better go for a walk now and then enjoy the very German supper and a beer.  Hotel Samson in Bekkum just west of Dortmund.   

Oct. 1/2013

The trip is going great.   London was amazing after all these years.   I saw a lot of new things, and did some oldies.   The worst play in London (Much Ado About Nothing with Vanessa Redgrave and James Earl Jones) and probably the best (Chimerica).   The walking group was a great group but they all went their own way after lunch, mostly to bed, so it was great to stay with an old friend for a few days who still has some umph in her.   The walks were all great and to really interesting new places.  

Saw a Lowry exhibit -- I am sure you'd recognize the paintings --- northern England working class life with lots of stick figures.   Funny and a statement at the same time.   Very good.   There's SOOOOO much in London, I could stay here for months.   I didn't venture out of town, but next time, must do a driving tour.  

Today - big day --- got myself over to Lille, picked up the car, and drove half way across Europe this afternoon.   It all went like clockwork.   I was planning on a traditional town pub/hotel, and that's just what I got.   Better go for a walk now and then enjoy the very German supper and a beer.

Oct.1/13 London to Lille

The trip is going great.   London was amazing after all these years.   I saw a lot of new things, and did some oldies.   The worst play in London (Much Ado About Nothing with Vanessa Redgrave and James Earl Jones) and probably the best (Chimerica).   The walking group was a great group but they all went their own way after lunch, mostly to bed, so it was great to stay with Gill for a few days as she still has some umph in her.

We walked and walked in London, all sorts of neighbourhoods, medieval manor houses I had not seen before, and just funny old corners of the City.   Also Open London where they open a lot of public buildings not normally open to the public.  
  

Saw the Lowry exhibit -- I am sure you'd know the paintings --- northern England working class life with lots of stick figures, the Denny Severs house (old old house near charing cross full of old stuff, smells, and lit by candle light), and tour of Charing Cross station area with more stories with G's friend.   Funny and a statement at the same time.   There's SOOOOO much in London, I could stay here for months.   I didn't venture out of town, but next time, must do a driving tour.  

Yesterday I did the V & A (fabulous hunting tapestries of Henry VIII courtiers vandalizing the parks), Michelin house, and Barkers.

Today - big day --- got myself over to Lille, picked up the car, and drove half way across Europe this afternoon.   It all went like clockwork.   I was planning on a traditional town pub/hotel, and that's just what I got.   The town is Beckum (east of Dortmund).  I picked it off the map because I thought a town with the ending "um" would be a good one.   Apparently it means a very very old town that grew up from a slightly dry spot in the swamps.   Maybe it's not true because this area is higher, but then Munster is close and apparently that is a swampty area with many moated castles. 

Better go for a walk now and then enjoy the haxen and bier.   

Oct. 1/13

Correction: The town is Beckum.  I picked it off the map because I thought a town with the ending "um" would be a good one.   Apparently it means a very very old town that grew up from a slightly dry spot in the swamps.   Maybe it's not true because this area is higher, but then Munster is close and apparently that is a swampty area with many moated castles.  Do you know anything about this town name ending? There are a lot of "ums" in northern Holland --- the towns on little bumps in the middle of flat lamp, and usually have a church on the highest part of the bump.   Apparently over the millenia, the natives drove the cattle to these slight rises when the water rose, so the low humps gradaully got higher and higher.

I'll keep you posted on any other new language discoveries.

Bev

Oct. 2/13

Well, I found out from the local museum that the name used to be Beckheim and there are many towns that used to be ... heim and now ...um.  So that makes sense.

Today, total opposite --- yucky town, yucky hotel, yucky dinner.   

Oct. 3/13

Over here, it is easy to be fit, lots of walking, and not much eating.   I am feeling pretty good and looking forward to Berlin.   

I am sitting in a huge dining room --- nobody else here, but there's a huge buffet breakfast.   Last night I had dinner in the Ratskeller (I am in Helbstedt near Hannover, on my way to Berlin today).   It is cool in the mornings but hot and sunny all day.   I am really enjoying the driving and finding a hotel doesn't seem like a problem.   

Yesterday, I drove around in an area called Munsterland where they have 100's of castles surrounded by water.   Could I find even one? No luck.  I don't have a Germany guide book, and this time, local signs didn't help.  I went to tourist info, but all there info is for cyclists.   I searched the internet too --- no luck.   Today, I will look around Potsdam -- Sansouci before I get to the hotel late afternoon.  These places need to know what time you will arrive so I said 6 pm.

Re the driving, I have been in some monsterous "stau's"  (traffic jams).  The radio announced them as "10 km stau between x and y, 1 hour" (how long you will be delayed).   There are 1000's of trucks, usually they stay in the right lane, but you have to watch as they move over with 2 seconds warning.   I am in my element on the road.

Oct. 4/2013 Berlin

I finally got internet (by going across the street to a very nice bar and & restaurant).   The hotel is on the 3rd floor of a 19th century building that still has original curly iron balconies, ancient wooden elevator, unbelievable carving in dining room, etc.   Okay fruhstuck but they have WILAN that doesn't really work.

Berlin is very exciting.   Were you here when you visited Germany a few years ago?  I walked all day long and saw the main squares and gates and Reichstag.   Lots of people, and reconstruction everywhere.

YOu would have loved the special exhibits at the Martin Gropius I saw today.   Oppenheimer Retrospective, and a Kapor installation specially created --- completely amazing, with red wax everywhere, and cannon shooting cans of red wax around (meaning = blood).   One installation was a dead something that was like a black flat tire that filled 3 rooms.  

I wandered saw the new Holocaust Memorial --- fabulous interpretation --- different from all the others I have seen --- had to sit down and have a cry --- these things are sooo upsetting, but you have to see them.   I saw the old Berlin Wall and Checkpoint Charlie --- it has all changed since 1973 (naturlich).  

There sure are lots of things to learn when travelling, like how to park your car, how to use the subway system, find hotels, how to drive on the autobahn, etc. but I just love it.  The first time is hardest and then it's just fine.   I feel like a worldly traveller. 

I met a lady in the hotel this morning.   She travels to see exhibits that she is interested in --- that is my goal --- travel to exhibits.

I figured out that the former east Germany is still behind the western part --- and it is reflected in the service attitude too --- still a little bit in the past, compared to the west.   That explains the difference between my first little town Beckum and the second one Helbstedt.  

Anyway, having the time of my life here, just what I wanted.   On the road in Europe with a car.   Wow!  

man this beer is good --- people here just order a beer --- don't specify.  London, they have a bunch of choices on tap and you have to specify.

As for where to live for 3 months while learning German --- it's between Beckum and Berlin (ha).  

My German is not too bad -- surprising me.  I have the radio on in the car all day, which helps.  

Oct.4/13 Berlin

I asked a young woman yesterday what you called a senior citizen in German --- she said Senioren (or something like that) or Rentner.   This morning I asked a more senior German woman she had never heard of Rentner.   

Oct.4/13 Berlin

The trip is going great.   London was amazing after all these years.   I saw a lot of new things, and did some oldies.   The worst play in London (Much Ado About Nothing with Vanessa Redgrave and James Earl Jones) and probably the best (Chimerica).   The walking group was a great group but they all went their own way after lunch, mostly to bed, so it was great to stay with G for a few days as she still has some umph in her.   

Saw the Lowry exhibit -- I am sure you'd know the paintings --- northern England working class life with lots of stick figures, the Denny Severs house (old old house near charing cross full of old stuff, smells, and lit by candle light), and tour of Charing Cross station area with more stories with G's friend.   Funny and a statement at the same time.   There's SOOOOO much in London, I could stay here for months.   I didn't venture out of town, but next time, must do a driving tour.  

Yesterday I did the V & A (fabulous hunting tapestries of Henry VIII courtiers vandalizing the parks), Michelin house, and Barkers.

Today - big day --- got myself over to Lille, picked up the car, and drove half way across Europe this afternoon.   It all went like clockwork.   I was planning on a traditional town pub/hotel, and that's just what I got.   The town is Beckum (east of Dortmund).  I picked it off the map because I thought a town with the ending "um" would be a good one.   Apparently it means a very very old town that grew up from a slightly dry spot in the swamps.   Maybe it's not true because this area is higher, but then Munster is close and apparently that is a swampy area with many moated castles. 

Better go for a walk now and then enjoy the haxen and bier.   

Oct.5/13 Berlin

I finally got internet (by going across the street to a very nice bar and & restaurant).   The hotel is on the 3rd floor of a 19th century building that still has original curly iron balconies, ancient wooden elevator, unbelievable carving in dining room, etc.   Okay fruhstuck but they have WILAN that doesn't really work.   So I go across the street to a great bar/restaurant every night for free WIFI.

Berlin is very exciting.   I walk all day long and saw the main squares and gates and Reichstag.   Lots of people, and reconstruction everywhere.

Yesterday, I saw the usual big monuments and an art exhibit.   People here have money --- going by how they dress and the shops. 

I saw the new Holocaust Memorial --- fabulous interpretation --- different from all the others I have seen --- had to sit down and have a cry --- these things are sooo upsetting, but you have to see them.   I saw the old Berlin Wall and Checkpoint Charlie --- it has all changed since 1973 (naturlich).  

There sure are lots of things to learn when travelling, like how to park your car, how to use the subway system, find hotels, how to drive on the autobahn, etc. but I just love it.  The first time is hardest and then it's just fine.   I feel like a worldly traveller.   

I met a lady in the hotel this morning.   She travels to see exhibits that she is interested in --- that is my goal --- travel to exhibits.

I figured out that the former east Germany is still behind the western part --- and it is reflected in the service attitude too --- still a little bit in the past, compared to the west.   That explains the difference between my first little town Beckum and the second one Helbstedt, where I stayed for night.   Both historical towns but night and day atmosphere.   One alive and friendly, one dead and nobody around, no hotels in the middle, no restaurants open, just the RatsKeller thank god.

Today, my car was towed away --- I didn't see or understand the sign that said that a movie was being made, so I had quite a morning.   The movie people were great, phoned the police and drove me to the police station.   I paid a wopping fine (150 eu) and then was given the location of my car -- 50 feet from where they towed it on the street.   But first they gave me the wrong address, and then I had to get a lady in a shop to phone for me and the proper address. (the whole thing was not as bad as the night dad's car got towed)   Finally, all set, if I had just looked around I would have found the car and skipped the fine.   Anyway, met some great people, and great chance to speak German.   Half the time I speak plaut detach by mistake.  Then off I went to my museums and spent all day doing that.

Finally, I went to the department store KaDeWe which is even way better than Harrods.   On the food floor, they have lots of eating and drinking bars --- the places is full, but you can find a seat at any bar, and have champagne or any drink from anywhere in the world.  They even have a Kanada section.   Talk about money $$$$$$$$.
  

People here are well dressed --- far more than in North American.   I am always looking at what people are wearing, young and old.  They really take pride in dressing in high quality, coordinated, and dress up more.   They definitely are not fat --- that you don't see.   Sometimes a middle aged woman has a few pounds, but mostly they are slim too.    Even thought they serve these huge huge haxen and snitzel and huge piles of potatoes and gravy.   Nobody can make gravy though.   I had stein pilzen yesterday -- mmm, but Harry's are better.

I can't decide whether I like Berlin (for a 3 month stay --- it is so crowded and so much construction), but then you can always take trips to the countryside and explore.   

Anyway, having the time of my life here, just what I wanted.   On the road in Europe with a car.   Wow!

Man the beer is good --- people here just order a beer --- don't specify.  London, they have a bunch of choices on tap and you have to specify and usually go up to the bar --- but you do not tip the bartender.   That surprised me as I thought you had to buy one for them.

As for where to live for 3 months while learning German --- it's between Beckum and Berlin (ha).  

My German is not too bad -- surprising me.  I have the radio on in the car all day when driving, which helps.  

Part 4 -- Berlin to Nancy Oct. 6-

Oct.5/2013 Berlin

Paris is not on my agenda.   I am in Berlin now, heading for Nancy, France next and then the west coast of France --- Bordeaux.   My favorite part of France so far is still Languedoc but want to explore west coast to see whether it would be nice to spend 3 months.   

Oct.6/13 Berlin

Here I sit in Starbucks having a coffee and internet session.   My hotel said they had WIFI but they don't so I am using the local restaurants. 

I have walked and walked here in Berlin, visiting all the big sights (sites?)  and exhibits.   It's a great city, but I am surprised that it's still behind west Germany in so many ways (and way behind London).   There are fancy stores here, but I am told that it is the Russians that are spending the money, not Germans.

I had my car towed yesterday --- what an adventure (expensive) that was.   I was in a legal spot but unbeknownst to me a film company had rented the area, and I did not see/understand the sign.   All in the name of learning German I guess.

The hotel is a funny place --- an old old apartment with ancient wooden elevator.   Comfortable, convenient, but no WIFI.   However, the restaurant across the street is my home in the evenings.

So, tomorrow I am on the road again, heading for Nancy for a few days.   I will stop a few places on the way for night, and take a chance on a hotel and parking etc.   Maybe look around Alsace a bit too.   Then cross to the western side of France.   If you might be coming to meet me, just let me know where you are, and I will find you.

Oct. 6/2013 Berlin

My last night in Berlin, after seeing all the sights.   My hotel does not have WIFI (they said they did), so I am spending evenings at a nice bar/resto across the street.   Full of Russians --- like the whole city.   Where else do grown men, young, old, tough looking, suits, and lots of blonde women order pots of tea and sit with their cell phones?   

It's very East GErmany here still.

Guess what I sort of got picked up in Starbucks, a very nice retired German guy.   We are going to email.   He invited me to visit him in Koln.  But he's off to Laos, so I guess it will be another year.  

Berlin is very different from 1973 -- but I went to all the old places --- Checkpoint Charlie, and all that.   The new thing is the Holocaust Memorial in the middle of the city --- very well done museum underneath all the stelae.   I've seen it before, but this one was quite different, and I had my cry down there. 

Okay, better get out of here, and to bed.  Another adventure tomorrow.   My car was towed the other morning --- film company --- they put up a sign but I didn't see it, so another chance to practice German.   All was well, once the money was paid.  Ouch.

Oct. 7, 2013 Dessau and Bad Nauheim

I am cool with wherever you want to go in France.   I wanted to see La Rochelle area for sure, as you have both spoken about it before.  I sounds great.

As for character and charm, I have just checked into a funny old place in Bad Nauheim.   Cheap, shabby, good wifi, good location.   I drove all the way from Berlin, listening to rock and pop all the way.   I had a great morning in Dessau looking at the Gropius houses and Bauhaus school.   Had to buy a poster, after swearing no posters for many years now.    The reason I am in this town is that I want to find those Roman walls and fort tomorrow --- the Limes as the wall was called. 

The Germans are different from place to place --- those East Germans are, well, rude, and derisive when you don't know something or do something right.   They think they are hospital and helpful but they (try to) make you feel like an idiot tourist.   The ones working in the Charlottenburg are unbelievable, they won't say anything if you ask a question.   They all thought it was hilarious and all my fault that my car was towed.   The movie people were great though, very very nice.  

Anyway, we'll keep in touch, and I will now explore a very ancient run down spa town with Kliniks and Krankenhauser all over.  Also, some kind of market celebration going so I will check that out.