June 6, 2015 Cacak Serbia to Sarajevo, BiH
The drive was amazing --- along a brilliant green river (reminded me of the train up to Prince George, Seton Lake area), gorges, and windy roads all the way.
Just before the border I came to Drvengrad, a movie set which I could see most of from the road driving by. There were a few tour buses there --- first I've seen on this trip, so I guess it's popular.
I crossed the border near Visegrad, BiH. Serbia charged an environment fee upon leaving, just a small amount. The BiH guard as for the green card which was in my folder from the rental company (first time I had to produce that).
No exchange kiosks at the border but I had changed some in ????
Visegrad has a 10 arch bridge (bombed to bits and rebuilt). Home of Nobel Prize winner for a book called Bridge at Drina (?). I saw it from the car window as the road wound back and forth so I had several views from both sides of the river, from a distance and very close. There is no access to it, just plywood and fences falling down.
The approach to Sarajevo coming out of the mountains is spectacular and soon you are right in the city. Fairly easy to find the hotel with Garmin and phone app. Hotel Halvat is in the old city, Muslim part, with Moorish style, mosques, etc.
It was very exciting actually as the pope was visiting and helicopters were hovering. I walked over to the cathedral after parking the car in an nearby parking lot, changing some money at nearby FX shops. The town was full of police security and none of the outdoor cafes had chairs and tables out, but as the pope was leaving, they started setting up.
I had carafe of white wine and a cold plate --- beef proscuitto and 3 kinds of cheese and green olives. All delicious. Except one cheese had gone mouldy and the mould cut off, but it was quite strongly evident.
My hotel was simple but everything worked. They only had the room for one night but arranged for me to move to a nearby hotel next day for two more nights.
June 7, 2015, Sarajevo
This was a fabulous day. The hotel had recommended a free city tour at 10 am so I went to the Cathedral area at the time. I very nice young man walked me all over (I was the only one) and it was really excellent. He was an economist so it was a very good conversation. I tipped him well. Then arranged for a trip to the Tunnel Museum at 3 pm.
Lunch was a pide and coke -- not very good at all. Changed more money and paid for 2 more days parking. Moved to the new hotel. The rooms have little kitchenettes. No table or couch, just minimal cooking facilities, but almost no equipment, no dish soap or dish towel. But great AC and after persistent gentle complaining, WIFI was excellent (wires jiggled, reset)
The guide picked me up at 3 pm and drove me and 2 Brazilian tourists out to the airport and gave us the tour. Soooo interesting. The UN would have shut down the tunnel - guide said Serbias pay the UN a lot of money ??. Learned a lot about the smudging and who became rich. The smugglers paid the Bosnian army $50,000 for 8 hours use of the tunnel. Our guide was in the siege (1000 days) as a 6 year old, (deaf in one ear from the shelling), and remembers the food aid (cans from 1962, war rations from Viet Nam war, one meal for 4 people for 1 week). 12000 people died probably more. We saw a short film on the siege and the tunnel and toured a small section of tunnel. Cigs, gas, and alcohol were not allowed through the tunnel. Food was really expensive during the siege. Smuggled food was sold for a fortune. None of the smugglers who got rich were ever prosecuted. The UN (and hence Canadian peace keepers) are not popular here, so I now do not mention that Canadians were here any more. There were a few small groups of English speaking tourists with guides.
The first time I have seen anybody taking pictures for ages (other than kids in a cafe yesterday) and having to stay out of the way of people's photos and getting flash going off in small spaces in my eyes. It sure changes the experience. Instead of taking the opportunity to talk to the guide and ask questions, they are taking pictures of each other in front of things, and later wondering what it is they saw.
We also met the man who owned the house where the tunnel started and was a truck driver bringing the supplies. What a privilege. Had a rakia (home made) with him and bought a little book from his tiny little little shop. He was never recognized at all for his work and risk to facilitate the tunnel and keep Sarajevo alive.
Finally got my WIFI at the hotel working --- 3rd floor needed a reboot and wires reconnected. Went for a walk to find dinner. The town is so alive, with crowds of people and dozens of cafes and restaurants. Talked to a young fellow in a book store and bought a book. Had a coffee and pastry. Went for a long walk around town and found where I should have gone.
One of the best days of the trip.
June 8, 2015, Sarajevo.
Sunday, June 7, 2015
Saturday, June 6, 2015
Balkan Road Trip June 4-6 Serbia
In Sofia, I decided to skip a side trip to Skopje (Macedonia) as I would have had to return to Bulgaria to get back to Serbia, and head for Montenegro via Serbia. I have to avoid Kosovo with the rental car as it is on the list of no-go countries.
June 4, Sofia, Bulgaria to Nis, Serbia
Leaving Sofia was very easy. However, the Garmin is out-of-date and there are many one-way streets and roundabouts not in the maps. The roads were good and the scenery marvellous.
The border crossing was easy, except that the border guard kept letting her buddies go ahead of me. What a b….! There was a fight to shove in ahead of others. What is going on? There are only about 5 cars/trucks and we have to fight to be first?
No vignette is required for Serbia, the crossing was smooth I changed a few Euros at the border from a selection of exchange kiosks.
I planned an easy drive the first day, and reserved a hotel in Nis. What a pleasant surprise.
Before heading into the centre, I visited the Roman imperial villa (Emperor Constantine's villa) of Mediana before I went into the city of Nis. It was "closed" for renovations but there was a guy from the museum explaining things with help of very good "tables" (a sheaf of very large posters with high quality diagrams. Unfortunately, the mosaics are not open and they are rebuilding walls in a dreadful way. It is a huge and interesting site, so hopefully, they can make it great one day.
I arrived in Nis centre, but couldn't find the hotel using either phone app or Garmin (hotel too new), but eventually using the phone as a telephone for once, I got there. Hotel staff tried to come and meet me --- very nice.
The Hotel Eter is extremely modern designer boutique style. Staff are really accommodating and changed room from attic style (those high windows are too claustrophobic for me) to window style on request, parked my car, carried my luggage, provided a map, directions, etc.
I took a short walk and visited the museum a block away. It has a small exhibit of what was found in Mediana (the coolest thing is a metal gate that closed in one section of the villa. There are also photographs and replicas of the 2000-year-old barrel vaulted painted tombs destroyed by construction of the Benetton factory. They reminded me of the Etruscan tombs in Tarquinia. It's not enough that the ages, and wars have destroyed so much, now the global manufacturing economy has to plunk a factory right there --- no wonder people give up worrying about these things --- it's so futile and painful.
The town of Nis has a very lively cafe life. There was a great bar and restaurant second down from hotel. Great waiter -- he gave me back my tip! I had a plate of cheese (like Ukrainian cottage cheese) with paprika (peppers) and herbs --- excellent. And a meat dish which I have forgotten. Good beer in the afternoon and very good wine with dinner. Very cheap too.
There are beggars and the restaurants all just put their garbage in the beautiful park, which is then torn apart by dogs, then sorted in and removed at 4 am, first manually, then by garbage truck.
June 5, 2015, Nis to Cacak, Serbia
Cacak was a half way stop to Sarajevo. I didn't want a border crossing at the end of the day. The town was not unpleasant but nothing special. The Hotel Tema Nova was pretty good, a little smoky. My dinner was terrible -- wine gone off and fried breaded meat. There was football and tennis on so waiters were glued to the TV. Left for BosniaHerzegovina next morning.
I stopped for gas (no OMV's along this route), and filled up. I spied a cevak shop nearby and stopped for coffee and lunch. It was very good and cheap.
June 4, Sofia, Bulgaria to Nis, Serbia
Leaving Sofia was very easy. However, the Garmin is out-of-date and there are many one-way streets and roundabouts not in the maps. The roads were good and the scenery marvellous.
The border crossing was easy, except that the border guard kept letting her buddies go ahead of me. What a b….! There was a fight to shove in ahead of others. What is going on? There are only about 5 cars/trucks and we have to fight to be first?
No vignette is required for Serbia, the crossing was smooth I changed a few Euros at the border from a selection of exchange kiosks.
I planned an easy drive the first day, and reserved a hotel in Nis. What a pleasant surprise.
Before heading into the centre, I visited the Roman imperial villa (Emperor Constantine's villa) of Mediana before I went into the city of Nis. It was "closed" for renovations but there was a guy from the museum explaining things with help of very good "tables" (a sheaf of very large posters with high quality diagrams. Unfortunately, the mosaics are not open and they are rebuilding walls in a dreadful way. It is a huge and interesting site, so hopefully, they can make it great one day.
I arrived in Nis centre, but couldn't find the hotel using either phone app or Garmin (hotel too new), but eventually using the phone as a telephone for once, I got there. Hotel staff tried to come and meet me --- very nice.
The Hotel Eter is extremely modern designer boutique style. Staff are really accommodating and changed room from attic style (those high windows are too claustrophobic for me) to window style on request, parked my car, carried my luggage, provided a map, directions, etc.
I took a short walk and visited the museum a block away. It has a small exhibit of what was found in Mediana (the coolest thing is a metal gate that closed in one section of the villa. There are also photographs and replicas of the 2000-year-old barrel vaulted painted tombs destroyed by construction of the Benetton factory. They reminded me of the Etruscan tombs in Tarquinia. It's not enough that the ages, and wars have destroyed so much, now the global manufacturing economy has to plunk a factory right there --- no wonder people give up worrying about these things --- it's so futile and painful.
The town of Nis has a very lively cafe life. There was a great bar and restaurant second down from hotel. Great waiter -- he gave me back my tip! I had a plate of cheese (like Ukrainian cottage cheese) with paprika (peppers) and herbs --- excellent. And a meat dish which I have forgotten. Good beer in the afternoon and very good wine with dinner. Very cheap too.
There are beggars and the restaurants all just put their garbage in the beautiful park, which is then torn apart by dogs, then sorted in and removed at 4 am, first manually, then by garbage truck.
June 5, 2015, Nis to Cacak, Serbia
Cacak was a half way stop to Sarajevo. I didn't want a border crossing at the end of the day. The town was not unpleasant but nothing special. The Hotel Tema Nova was pretty good, a little smoky. My dinner was terrible -- wine gone off and fried breaded meat. There was football and tennis on so waiters were glued to the TV. Left for BosniaHerzegovina next morning.
I stopped for gas (no OMV's along this route), and filled up. I spied a cevak shop nearby and stopped for coffee and lunch. It was very good and cheap.
Friday, May 29, 2015
Balkan Road Trip May 29-June 5 Bulgaria
May 29, Day 1, Varna, Bulgaria
Email to Family:
This is a great little city. Lots to see. The town is situated amidst all sorts of ruins, including Roman amphitheatre and more, Dacian fortress, and many restored and open houses of the 19th C.
My hotel was also pretty good, short walk to town.
June 1-3, Days 4-6, Sofia, Bulgaria
Sofia is not very exciting and I never found a great cafe street. However, renting an apartment "Brown Cottage" through booking.com was great. A new experience and met the most wonderful couple Poli and Svetlin. Very convenient to the Mall of Sofia, lovely shops for food, local bar under the vines, German restaurant "Werner" on the corner. Short walk into the centre. Downsides of an apartment -- have to arrange to meet hosts when arriving and leaving. I did this by means of email as I am not comfortable with the phone yet (overcame that in Nix yesterday). It was very modern and even had a washing machine and dishwasher.
City maps provided/available are not good and I lost the good one I had bought somewhere earlier. No stores in Sofia with decent maps (bought another but no help). I have resorted to using my Samsung Maps feature --- it has more on it and searches are easier.
Poli and Svetlin took me to the mall the first night to find an Apple store and exchange. There was an iCorner and a very nice young guy fixed my "virus" (bad me watching PFTV and accidentally opening something). Then they took me for a beer and snacks. Svetlin speaks good English and is a chatter (both are) so we easily and quickly became great friends.
The archeology museum in the middle of the city is fantastic, excellent exhibits, and very good interpretation. Thanks to Philip Kendrick from the Algeria tour, I recognized a lot of things --- measurement table, stele, etc. Never did find the other museums --- nothing is labelled and the maps are hopeless. I did see the changing of the guard (right outside the Arch. Museum, and a big noisy protest against the banks.
I did find a L'Occitane by first googling and then searching --- what a surprise amongst the ordinary shops. There are a few luxury shops like Gucci, but mostly the usual down market local shops.
Interesting, a gypsy guy helped me park and find the apartment, hoping for money, but didn't hang around for it. Poli explained later. There are guys with horses and wagons in the city, they seem to have a business carting away any junk from renovations. I assume these are gypsies too, but hard to tell. One really needs a local guide in these countries.
Random Tips for Driving in Bulgaria:
- most things are the same as for Romania. Roads are better and not so many horses and wagons on the roads. Lots of construction
- Border crossing - easy but for the confusing roads (see above). You pay a vignette at the border instead of tolls on the roads. It's very cheap and they generally take euros
- FX - best to have cash in small bills. I usually try to have euros, and some currency of the country I am leaving and the country I am going into. At each border there are exchange booths, so it's easy to exchange a few euros and change your previous country currency right there, rather than try to find something open upon arrival. I was exchanging euros but am hoarding those now, so I am getting cash out of ATMs
- decent maps are scarce of non-existent. The best option is to buy at the gas station, but these maps are in local language, and not great maps for tourists, topography, etc. (same all over the Balkans. The locals seldom know of much less where things are
- OMV, my favourite gas station is in Bulgaria (and Serbia)
- navigating - my routine is to program the directions to the hotel on the Samsung phone Maps app while on WIFI (at hotel or OMV station). The Samsung seems to have more on it. I do the same with Google maps on my computer. In the car, I plug in the Garmin and program to the city I am going to. It won't program to the hotel until I am right in the city AND the hotel is in the list of Hotels
- safety - every where is safe and the car is safe. Don't leave anything in the car. Don't leave money on the table but rather hand directly to the waiter
Email to Family:
"I am sitting in a terrible dump of a resort on the Black Sea called Varna (supposed to be the best in Bulgaria, but at least the beer is good). As usual they are tearing up everything or it's totally falling apart. The modern part looked great, so I am disappointed in the old part. I was beginning to think Bulgaria was more advanced than Romania.
The drive this morning from Bucharest was interesting. There are no street signs or house numbers in Romania or Bulgaria (very rare), and the Garmin can't keep up in the city so it takes some time to get out of town. The drive to the border was okay, but the border was crazy. Roads all over the place, but no signs, finally got across a big bridge across the Danube (first sight of the Danube since Budapest).
Anyway, first I had to pay the bridge tax on the Romanian side, then drive all over the place to find the crossing. There were trucks by the 100's lined up on both sides of the border and in huge parking lots (really just in big dirt fields). Of course the bridge is under repair although it is so old, flimsy, and narrow I can't see why. It is very very high and very long and there are lines trucks stuck on it, so it was a little hairy and shaky. Also, only one-way due to everlasting construction. They use red and green table tennis bats in Romania and Bulgaria for the many many one-way roads to indicate who can go (usually, sometimes just a guy waving his arms, or nothing, people just make up the rules).
Eventually, I got across and to the passport check on Bulgarian side. Was I ever glad to see my favourite OMV gas station with coffee, pastry, WIFI, etc. The drive was great, a nice paved 2-lane highway with very few trucks and even very few cars, so smooth sailing and nice countryside. Oh yes, back to the Danube, my god, industrial with huge coal or nuclear power plants. The river is treated like a garbage dump.
So catch up on Romania. I loved Romania, very interesting country, and would stay another week at least if I didn't have so much more to do. It is a road trip after all, and an overview.
So Transylvania is the most interesting because of the German people who lived there for 800 years and then left in 1990 (500,000 Germans or Saxons as they are called left). They were the ones responsible for any prosperity there. There are 250 villages left empty, with gorgeous fortified churches, and lots of houses and farms. The Romanian government took ownership of everything. Romanians and gypsies have been moved in. Still, there are great larger towns there like Sighisoara my favourite. The hotel was owned by a Canadian-Romanian family --- great people. I had fun looking around the cemetery and standing around after church to listen to the Saxon dialect (no Mennonite names, no plautdeetch), except for the name Reimer and some people were saying things like gundach (good day).
I have also been looking into the Jewish history here in the Balkans. Mostly of course, all dead, but there are synagogues that are museums and give tours and history.
Bucharest was not a great city, all falling down, and museums a mess, mostly closed for renovations. The collections are marvellous and they only show a small amount, but not much English explanation. The art museum is amazing (although the Brukenthal in Sibiu is more interesting). The history museum has an incredible gold horde, and the peasant museum is amazing. The most amazing thing in Bucharest is the Palace of Parliament, the largest office building in the world, and very gorgeous built in the 1980's by the infamous Ceausecu. All marble, they say all the resources of Romania are in that building. I did a tour and the guide was great, provided a lot of extra information.
I found one good restaurant and ate there 3 times --- Romanian live music every night --- free and fantastic, and good Romanian food and of course good wine. Not a word of English, but we managed.
I don't know what I'll find in Bulgaria --- not keen on monasteries, but I'll check out Plovdiv --- it has a Roman amphitheatre.
So there's the Balkan Update. Love to all you guys. Bev"
May 30-31, Day 2-3, Plovdiv, Bulgaria
My hotel was also pretty good, short walk to town.
June 1-3, Days 4-6, Sofia, Bulgaria
Sofia is not very exciting and I never found a great cafe street. However, renting an apartment "Brown Cottage" through booking.com was great. A new experience and met the most wonderful couple Poli and Svetlin. Very convenient to the Mall of Sofia, lovely shops for food, local bar under the vines, German restaurant "Werner" on the corner. Short walk into the centre. Downsides of an apartment -- have to arrange to meet hosts when arriving and leaving. I did this by means of email as I am not comfortable with the phone yet (overcame that in Nix yesterday). It was very modern and even had a washing machine and dishwasher.
City maps provided/available are not good and I lost the good one I had bought somewhere earlier. No stores in Sofia with decent maps (bought another but no help). I have resorted to using my Samsung Maps feature --- it has more on it and searches are easier.
Poli and Svetlin took me to the mall the first night to find an Apple store and exchange. There was an iCorner and a very nice young guy fixed my "virus" (bad me watching PFTV and accidentally opening something). Then they took me for a beer and snacks. Svetlin speaks good English and is a chatter (both are) so we easily and quickly became great friends.
The archeology museum in the middle of the city is fantastic, excellent exhibits, and very good interpretation. Thanks to Philip Kendrick from the Algeria tour, I recognized a lot of things --- measurement table, stele, etc. Never did find the other museums --- nothing is labelled and the maps are hopeless. I did see the changing of the guard (right outside the Arch. Museum, and a big noisy protest against the banks.
I did find a L'Occitane by first googling and then searching --- what a surprise amongst the ordinary shops. There are a few luxury shops like Gucci, but mostly the usual down market local shops.
Interesting, a gypsy guy helped me park and find the apartment, hoping for money, but didn't hang around for it. Poli explained later. There are guys with horses and wagons in the city, they seem to have a business carting away any junk from renovations. I assume these are gypsies too, but hard to tell. One really needs a local guide in these countries.
Random Tips for Driving in Bulgaria:
- most things are the same as for Romania. Roads are better and not so many horses and wagons on the roads. Lots of construction
- Border crossing - easy but for the confusing roads (see above). You pay a vignette at the border instead of tolls on the roads. It's very cheap and they generally take euros
- FX - best to have cash in small bills. I usually try to have euros, and some currency of the country I am leaving and the country I am going into. At each border there are exchange booths, so it's easy to exchange a few euros and change your previous country currency right there, rather than try to find something open upon arrival. I was exchanging euros but am hoarding those now, so I am getting cash out of ATMs
- decent maps are scarce of non-existent. The best option is to buy at the gas station, but these maps are in local language, and not great maps for tourists, topography, etc. (same all over the Balkans. The locals seldom know of much less where things are
- OMV, my favourite gas station is in Bulgaria (and Serbia)
- navigating - my routine is to program the directions to the hotel on the Samsung phone Maps app while on WIFI (at hotel or OMV station). The Samsung seems to have more on it. I do the same with Google maps on my computer. In the car, I plug in the Garmin and program to the city I am going to. It won't program to the hotel until I am right in the city AND the hotel is in the list of Hotels
- safety - every where is safe and the car is safe. Don't leave anything in the car. Don't leave money on the table but rather hand directly to the waiter
Hotels and booking.com
I generally travel without booking hotels in advance with a few exceptions. I just like to wander and make up my mind what to do as I travel. I always rent a car when travelling on my own (not in a tour group), so I don't have to worry about arriving in a town at a late hour and then trying to find something.
Sometimes, I just drive to the centre of town or city, park in the square or as near as possible, then walk over to the nearest likely looking hotel and if it's under 100 Euros I take it. Pros --- often find a very good hotel at a lower price.
Sometimes I check Lonely Planet for ideas and then have a place to look for in my price range.
Most often, I use booking.com and book something the day before or morning of. I have my computer with me and WIFI is easy to find. I specify my date, and that I need parking and WIFI, and my price range (under 100 euros), and hotel under type of property. I don't like apartments or hostels. I sort the resulting list by review rating and then by distance from the centre, check out a few likely ones under Facilities for Parking and WIFI. Then read the first 20 or so reviewer comments to make sure there are no warning signs.
In Western Europe, high 7 and up are good. In Central Europe (Balkans), local tourists rate everything very high, so I check specific comments and nationality of the reviewer and go for high 8's and 9+.
I don't get too stressed about the price or amenities as a few euros won't bankrupt me and you absolutely cannot tell everything from reviews, price, pictures, or descriptions.
Ideally I like an attractive room, big windows or balcony, view, good mattress and bedding, especially pillows, good lighting (not too dark to read or find something in my suitcase), BBC or CNN in English on the TV, handy plugs for charging computer, phone, beside the bed within having to move lamps, and no smoking in or around the hotel, and friendly staff who like talking to guests. But I am okay if the room is clean, has windows that open (not small high up attic windows), AC, very good WIFI in the room, parking on site or close by, and is within walking distance of restaurants, cafes, and museums.
Smoking in or around the hotel is often a problem, a restaurant in the hotel is good and necessary if the hotel is not walking distance from restaurants, and friendly helpful staff (nice to chat with staff about the country, the town, etc.)
Ideally, the bathroom has nice towels, hot water, a shower that does not flood the bathroom, hair dryer, good lighting, a mirror that is not too far away or high for me to see my face, a shelf to put my toiletries by the sink and in the shower, and a nice bar of soap and/or bath gel.
Things that many hotels, even the more luxurious, commonly get wrong:
- hard pillows
- no place to put toiletry products next to sink
- no shelf in the shower for soap, shampoo, gels, conditioners
- no place to hang towels
- bad lighting in the bathroom and bedroom
- carpet on the floor
- the full length mirror located where you cannot stand more than 2 feet away from it
- bathroom mirror too high to see my face in or put make up on (I am average height for a woman)
- only one plug beside the bed (can't plug in computer and a lamp at the same time)
- no English news channel on TV
- no fruit or overripe or dried out fruit at breakfast, poor quality coffee and bread, those artificial tasting scrambled eggs, packaged processed butter, spreads, and yogurts, juices that are merely fruit flavoured mixes
- no place to hang laundry to dry
- loose toilet seat
- closet hangers so high that even on tip toes I can barely reach
- those small foot pedal garbage cans are a pain to use.
Sometimes, I just drive to the centre of town or city, park in the square or as near as possible, then walk over to the nearest likely looking hotel and if it's under 100 Euros I take it. Pros --- often find a very good hotel at a lower price.
Sometimes I check Lonely Planet for ideas and then have a place to look for in my price range.
Most often, I use booking.com and book something the day before or morning of. I have my computer with me and WIFI is easy to find. I specify my date, and that I need parking and WIFI, and my price range (under 100 euros), and hotel under type of property. I don't like apartments or hostels. I sort the resulting list by review rating and then by distance from the centre, check out a few likely ones under Facilities for Parking and WIFI. Then read the first 20 or so reviewer comments to make sure there are no warning signs.
In Western Europe, high 7 and up are good. In Central Europe (Balkans), local tourists rate everything very high, so I check specific comments and nationality of the reviewer and go for high 8's and 9+.
I don't get too stressed about the price or amenities as a few euros won't bankrupt me and you absolutely cannot tell everything from reviews, price, pictures, or descriptions.
Ideally I like an attractive room, big windows or balcony, view, good mattress and bedding, especially pillows, good lighting (not too dark to read or find something in my suitcase), BBC or CNN in English on the TV, handy plugs for charging computer, phone, beside the bed within having to move lamps, and no smoking in or around the hotel, and friendly staff who like talking to guests. But I am okay if the room is clean, has windows that open (not small high up attic windows), AC, very good WIFI in the room, parking on site or close by, and is within walking distance of restaurants, cafes, and museums.
Smoking in or around the hotel is often a problem, a restaurant in the hotel is good and necessary if the hotel is not walking distance from restaurants, and friendly helpful staff (nice to chat with staff about the country, the town, etc.)
Ideally, the bathroom has nice towels, hot water, a shower that does not flood the bathroom, hair dryer, good lighting, a mirror that is not too far away or high for me to see my face, a shelf to put my toiletries by the sink and in the shower, and a nice bar of soap and/or bath gel.
Things that many hotels, even the more luxurious, commonly get wrong:
- hard pillows
- no place to put toiletry products next to sink
- no shelf in the shower for soap, shampoo, gels, conditioners
- no place to hang towels
- bad lighting in the bathroom and bedroom
- carpet on the floor
- the full length mirror located where you cannot stand more than 2 feet away from it
- bathroom mirror too high to see my face in or put make up on (I am average height for a woman)
- only one plug beside the bed (can't plug in computer and a lamp at the same time)
- no English news channel on TV
- no fruit or overripe or dried out fruit at breakfast, poor quality coffee and bread, those artificial tasting scrambled eggs, packaged processed butter, spreads, and yogurts, juices that are merely fruit flavoured mixes
- no place to hang laundry to dry
- loose toilet seat
- closet hangers so high that even on tip toes I can barely reach
- those small foot pedal garbage cans are a pain to use.
Sunday, May 24, 2015
The Saxon Story in Romania
The Saxon story in Romania is so astounding that I just had to copy it here. It's extremely interesting that half million people moved after 800 years? Here's a Guardian article copied below so as not to lose it.
http://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2009/oct/01/romania-saxon-conservation-village
Also, a little explanation about the Stollen chests. The bread of the same name is from the same word. It derives from the shape --- Stollen refers to the support, pole, post or prop (also stall and stool). The chests are on legs with poles through so they can be carried. They also have a roof shaped lid that can be locked.
Between the collapse of the Ceausescu regime in December 1989 and the spring of 1990, half a million indigenous so-called "Saxons" fled Romania for West Germany. It was the most astonishing, and little reported, ethnic migration in modern Europe. In the seven towns and 250 villages of Saxon Land in southern Transylvania, no less than 90% of the German-speaking population packed its bags and committed eight centuries of history to memory. They drove west to a country few of them knew, enticed by the notorious "return to the fatherland" speech of the German politician, Hans-Dietrich Genscher.
http://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2009/oct/01/romania-saxon-conservation-village
Also, a little explanation about the Stollen chests. The bread of the same name is from the same word. It derives from the shape --- Stollen refers to the support, pole, post or prop (also stall and stool). The chests are on legs with poles through so they can be carried. They also have a roof shaped lid that can be locked.
Between the collapse of the Ceausescu regime in December 1989 and the spring of 1990, half a million indigenous so-called "Saxons" fled Romania for West Germany. It was the most astonishing, and little reported, ethnic migration in modern Europe. In the seven towns and 250 villages of Saxon Land in southern Transylvania, no less than 90% of the German-speaking population packed its bags and committed eight centuries of history to memory. They drove west to a country few of them knew, enticed by the notorious "return to the fatherland" speech of the German politician, Hans-Dietrich Genscher.
The exodus left behind a deserted landscape the size of Wales, hundreds of square miles of rolling beech woods, bears, lush pastures and wild flowers, once home to the Dracula legend. Across it are dotted medieval grid-planned villages, with Lutheran churches, schools, dignified houses, barns and smallholdings, their customs and exclusivity reminiscent of the Pennsylvania Dutch. For 800 years since being invited by the Magyar kings to form a bulwark against the infidel, the Transylvania Saxons guarded their Germanic tradition. They spoke a High German said to be similar to ancient Luxembourgish. They embraced the Reformation and resisted Ceausescu's concrete communism. All this ended abruptly in 1990.
While the people have almost all gone, the villages remain, colonised mostly by Romania'sbooming Gypsies. It is estimated that as many as a million may now occupy this part of Transylvania, possibly rendering it one day the only majority-Gypsy province. The result is the most exciting and daunting cultural challenge inEurope.
The village of Archita is lost in a Carpathian valley near the 17th-century town of Sighisoara, whose medieval walls and nine towers lie at the heart of Dracula country. The village's fortified church stands like a castle in its midst, encircled by not one but two high walls, with musket holes and archers' galleries intact. It was built to protect the citizens against Tartar raids and still has its ham loft with hooks numbered for each house, an insurance against sudden siege. The interior displays its galleries, Protestant pulpit and baroque canopy. The churchyard is overgrown with unpicked plum and apple trees. From the rickety church tower the geometrical village plan reaches out into the surrounding woods. Wide streets and lime-washed, two-storeyed houses reflect the equal plots allotted to each Saxon family in the middle ages. Records show continuous family tenure from the 13th century to 1990. Just three Saxons remain.
The 18th-century town hall and school of Archita have fallen into dereliction. Since the families employed few servants there are no poor houses or suburbs. There is no water or sewerage and no tarmac roads. The village well and a few desultory horses and carts are attended by attractive Gypsy youths.
To the new inhabitants of these villages, the vanished Saxons represent an alien culture. But their ghosts flit round buildings that in most cases are unaltered since being converted from wood to stone in the 17th century. They are like the hill-station residences of British India, holding its genius loci in absentia.Ghosts linger too in the countryside round about, ironically preserved by Ceausescu's order forbidding development beyond the confines of existing settlement. This yielded one of the most effective green policies in Europe, protecting miles of meadow and forest, now vulnerable to exploitation. The roads are already littered with loggers carting away loads of walnut, beech and oak.
Unesco has designated some of the Saxon churches as world heritage sites, as has the Romanian government, but not the villages. With no money for repairs and no enforcement, such designation carries little weight. There is thus a race to save the most endangered pre-industrial landscape in Europe from poverty-stricken newcomers understandably eager for modernity. One day these villages will be as treasured as those of the Cotswolds, Provence or Umbria, but until then they must pass through the valley of the shadow of possible death.
The response of the outside world to Saxon Land's plight is uncertain. Money is seeping back. Some departed families have returned, some unhappy in exile, some as so-called "summer Saxons", holidaying in their former homeland and hoping to capitalise on rising property prices.
I encountered one dedicated young German, Sebastian Bethge, in the dramatic hill village of Apold, labouring alone to restore the church interior with money raised in Berlin and elsewhere. A visiting pastor had just held a Lutheran service for a congregation of nine – four Romanians, three Hungarians and two Germans.
The EU is bringing infrastructure to some villages, even as it devastates their markets for milk and hops. Unesco has its designations. The Transylvania Trusthas restored the castle home of the novelist, Miklos Banffy, whose Transylvanian Trilogy is so evocative of this region's other, Hungarian, past. Britain's Prince of Wales has bought and restored two Saxon village houses. But most international effort goes on hands-clean "awareness-raising", on drawing up lists, holding conferences and restoring an occasional showcase palace. The most impressive venture is the London-based Mihai Eminescu Trust (Met), chiefly supported by the American Packard foundation. Its "whole village" concept is tailored to Saxon Land, yielding more than 600 projects in the past decade. A leading citizen is engaged in each village to glean what locals – now mostly Romanians and Gypsies – would like restored if money and expertise were available.
This is exemplary conservation practice. Work is carried out by local contractors, with some 130 craftsmen trained to restore Lutheran and Orthodox churches, schools, houses and barns. Nothing is too small, from patched barn roofs and re-plastered street facades to empty properties converted to guesthouses. Plastic bus shelters and concrete bridges have been replaced in wood.
A truly minimalist venture had a Gypsy in the village of Floresti asking for, and getting, a tiled roof over an appalling hovel shared with his wife, two horses and a mountain of manure. Virtually next door is a restored Evangelical church, its sun-bathed interior one of the most serene of any church I know.
In the 13th-century village of Viscri, the Met has undertaken 160 restorations led by its local leader, Caroline Fernolend, winning it the EU's premier conservation award. Sewers were installed and a new kiln built to supply handmade tiles, operated by a local craftsman. The trust is even reinstating apple orchards and relaying a local narrow-gauge railway.
No such conservation can work against the grain of local consent or in the absence of local skills. Imported from outside, it will stir resentment and obstruction. The root cause of the Saxons' exodus was starvation of the modern benefits of civilisation. These cannot be denied their successors.
Yet the conservation of town and village cultures across the sweep of Europe proves that ancient and modern can co-exist to the advantage of both. Such is the disregard of the past by other world continents that these survivors will one day be respected, valued and celebrated.
The Transylvanian Saxons ranked with the Mennonite Amish, the Patagonia Welsh and the Volga Germans among the dislocated tribes of Europe. They lasted a phenomenal eight centuries, leaving intact monuments of a culture distinct and yet integral to European history. If modern European union cannot guard such relics of its diversity it is not worth the name.
Thursday, May 21, 2015
WIFI on the Road
I am getting to expect WIFI everywhere and it is most irritating when it's not available in an airport.
New York (JFK) in May was awful. I flew in from Toronto and had to wait outside security all day to check-in for a flight to Istanbul. The airport is crammed, no seats, only the poorest quality of fast food and coffee, few plug-in areas for devices were packed, no WIFI. You had to have your own private account. by the month. Even if I had an access card for an airline lounge, I wouldn't be able to get to it as they are all behind security.
Even paying for it is difficult because you have to join or subscribe to things. I couldn't make pay WIFI work in Heathrow in November --- joined the airport network and paid, but it wouldn't let me in.
I looked into Access card for airport lounges, but I am not sure it will pay off. I will try it sometime though. You still have to pay $27 for access and there is a time limit. sooo.
New York (JFK) in May was awful. I flew in from Toronto and had to wait outside security all day to check-in for a flight to Istanbul. The airport is crammed, no seats, only the poorest quality of fast food and coffee, few plug-in areas for devices were packed, no WIFI. You had to have your own private account. by the month. Even if I had an access card for an airline lounge, I wouldn't be able to get to it as they are all behind security.
Even paying for it is difficult because you have to join or subscribe to things. I couldn't make pay WIFI work in Heathrow in November --- joined the airport network and paid, but it wouldn't let me in.
I looked into Access card for airport lounges, but I am not sure it will pay off. I will try it sometime though. You still have to pay $27 for access and there is a time limit. sooo.
Tuesday, May 19, 2015
Balkan Road Trip (May 19-29/15) Romania
May 19 - Hunadoara, Romania.
After leaving Szeged, Hungary, around noon (so hard to get moving, so much to research, ha!), I found a gas station and then got going. I like to start the day with a full tank.
The Garmin had trouble getting me out of town, so I ended up following signs. Maybe because I programmed in the nearest gas station. Probably better to just find one on the way, trouble is that method is dicey if they are all on the other side of the road.
The other thing to be dealt with was currency --- use up my Hungarian, save enough for any incidentals, and get some Romanian. I did that in Szeged.
I crossed through the border into Romania pretty smoothly There are still customs inspections because Romania is not a Schengen country although in the EU. A Schengen country is one of 25 European countries that have abolished border checks and passport requirements for their citizens. Also, this would affect me if I stay more than 90 days anywhere within the Schengen countries --- I'd have to get a long-stay visa. The border officials inspected my passport and car registration and that only took a few minutes. Update: A hotel receptionist told me that Romania is indeed a Schengen country but that Romania requires the vignette only if crossing by car from Hungary.
Take note Lonely Planet -- Immediately after the border, there is a ramshackle little booth and two huge signs with charts (that look pretty official) about buying a vignette (road tax). I am not exactly sure what the vignette means but I have heard about it and was penalized for not having one once in Czech Republic. All signs were in Romanian of course and the lady in the booth spoke not a word of anything but Romanian, but I got my 7-day vignette for 3 euroes or RON I forget which (RON or lei is the Romanian currency). I wanted a 30-day vignette as the country is pretty interesting and big, but her computer would only allow her to sell 7-day vignettes. She said I could buy extensions at a Tankstelle (German for gas station). My amazing language skills got me through that. She spoke Romanian and I just somehow understood her. Nothing said about a vignette for Romania in LP, but there is a good explanation of Schengen countries and it does mention the vignette requirement when you cross into Bulgaria.
Roads in Romania are paved, probably the main difference since 1973, when I last passed through this country. As I remembered, the people are more "can do", and they cheerfully give you change for big bills and waive the toilet fee. The villages and towns are rundown and the houses the same as they were in 1900. I had a very good coffee and a kitkat for lunch at a gas station (OMV chain only, other gas station serve the horrible powder). I also bought some cherries, strawberries, and tomatoes beside the road (they have plastic bags now, but the fruit including strawberries is just in a huge heap. Tomatoes look good but are soso.
Driving was okay, but very disjointed, with little stretches of highway, lots of hilly narrow roads, lots of trucks, etc. There are no shoulders (either gravel or paved) on the roads and sometimes there is a horse and wagon, semi-truck and a car all tandem passing. Also a pedestrian or cyclist. I saw people stooking hay by hand as well. The stooks are constructed around a couple of tall poles and the hay is formed into a curly top not. Very cute and crazy. Lots of sheep herds. Farms and forests.
I drove all the way to Hunadoara the first day with intension of seeing the Roman city of Sarmeigetusa Ulpia Traiania nearby. Unfortunately Garmin took me the long way around. In future, I must also check the map with the Garmin directions to make sure the route is correct. I don't know how you check that on Garmin or how you change the route like you can with Google maps. All this is sooooo easy with Google maps. Anyway, I researched a bit more online and found out there are two ruins about 40 km apart --- one Roman and one Dacian, so I am opting for the older Dacian one. Sarmizegetusa Ulpia Traiania is the Roman one and Sarmizegetusa Regia is the Dacian. So get that straight and also the spelling if you ever want Google and Garmin to have a chance. It is not easy to research without really good guidebooks.
I booked a hotel on booking.com once I arrived in Hunadoara (just parked outside a hotel on the outskirts and used their free WIFI). The Corvini-Ana after the nearby Castle. It is something else. First the town, extremely industrial or was, the factories are very old and mostly falling down. Nuclear power plant (can't imagine what state of repair that's in). There's an Assa Abloy plant here too (hey Meg). The hotel is old and dusty, plus allows smoking in the lobby and dining room (everywhere in Romania). Very dusty and dirty carpets but good bathroom, good WIFI, free parking on the street, clean bed but uncomfortable ---- perfectly adequate and the price (23 euros) brings the hotel average down nicely. So much for the plan to splurge tonight. The food is the frozen and deep fried variety (even here). Local beer not great. The breakfast not worth the 4 euros. Coffee bad (no 3 cups today). Went for walk up to the castle but not motivated to enter. Very nice on the outside though.
May 20, Wed. Alba Iulia, Romania
First thing in the morning, I drove up the mountain to Sarmizegetusa Regia. The last 18 km of the road is dirt and has many potholes. That section takes about an hour. On the way back down I was very glad of the manual transmission, as it is easy to coast down in first gear and not have to use the brake. The site itself is lovely, quiet, only a few people walking around. Good interpretive signs. A guard and ticket taker. The site has a lot of interesting walls, temples, altars, pillars (very large diameter rounds -- about 6 feet in diameter and 10 inches thick, convex both sides), upright stone circles (like stonehenge but different shapes), paved roads, etc. Two kinds of stone, a very black stone, and a light sandstone. The Romans pillaged it extensively for building stones.
Then on to Alba Iulia, former Roman garrison, with later fortress built on top. Very much restored and beautified with a luxury hotel inside. I stayed there (Medieval Inn). Walked into town for a beer --- Stella this time, sick of the eastern European beer. Very hip bar. Dinner in the hotel was mediocre but the wine was good. Would not stay in this hotel again --- I hate those hot rooms on the top floor with small high windows. I had the fan on all the time. The hotel itself was extremely beautiful. The breakfast wasn't great and the restaurant was average. Very little English spoken.
May 21, Thursday, Seghetu Marmatei, Romania.
I left Alba Iulia early and went to the gas station and exchange bank (BRD) to change Euros into Lei. The hotel was pretty fancy but not prepared to take cash unless I had exact change. I paid in Euros no problem with the published rate. The bank rate was very slightly less.
On down the road north to Seghetu Marmatei near the Ukraine border. Very quickly came to Auild, which has a great fortified Saxon church. Had a look. The town seems very nice and lively with restaurants and lots of people about. Kept driving and stopped at an OVM for sandwich and coffee. Tried WIFI but could not get on. After Baie Mare, the world changed drastically. Back to 1900.
The Hotel Gradina Morii by the river was nice enough (except for the breakfast) but it was my first and only experience so far with not getting the Guaranteed Best Price. The staff who booked me in gave me their regular posted rate for a single of 170 (less than the booking.com price) but the next morning the woman on duty changed it back to the higher price. So, something to watch for. Usually it is cheaper on booking.com at least less than the posted rate. You might get a better rate just walking in especially if you are local.
Here's what I wrote to the family:
"After Budapest (falling down, but great museums) and Szeged (wine festival), I drove into Romania, which is very backward. It sounds mundane, but it's been quite a trip. I roamed around for a few days, saw a pre-Roman Dacian fortress and worship sight (kind of like a stone henge and Mayan temple combined) way way up in the mountains. I had to drive about 50 km and the last 18 km on a dirt road with a million pot holes. Good thing I am an amazing driver.
The old town was very busy and full of tourists, including a great number of Israelis, including a lot of elderly ladies in long dresses and kerchiefs. After my travels to date, it is hard to get used to the noise and crassness of tourists and locals alike.
Today I met an older couple from Seattle travelling by train through the Balkans.
I had lunch at the Alte Post today --- beer, sausage, and cabbage. I am really enjoying the cabbage. Tomatoes should be good but are disappointing.
May 25, Sibiu, Romania, Exclusive Hotel
I left Sighisoara but could have stayed longer and really enjoyed the Central Park Hotel. I met a nice Canadian family living in Budapest and was invited to stay with them anytime. That would be fabulous as I would like to spend more time there and they are great people.
I drove to Viscri, another Saxon fortified church, very very old. Lots going on there with restorations, and there are actually tour groups, still only about 8-10 people on the site. Mostly Germans seeking roots. My German is coming is so handy here as many Romanians in this area speak German. Prince Charles has a castle in the area and has restored a few houses. These houses are quite different and have a barn attached at the back. None of the other villages have barns with each house, attached or not. In Russia, these were torn down during collectivization as no individual could own livestock.
There is a small museum worth looking at for the organization of the villages and the use of "reconciliation" and "case". Each man had to reconcile accounts with the case. There are a lot of old wooden chests, about 2 feet long, which apparently held all the accounts and possibly the money too. The word case is curious --- I am thinking caisse or cache in French meaning a kind of bank or safe place to keep your money. From http://www.etymonline.com : "receptacle," early 14c., from Anglo-French and Old North French casse (Old French chasse "case, reliquary;" Modern French châsse), from Latin capsa "box, repository" (especially for books), from capere "to take, hold" (see capable).
There was a WC in the village and money to be left on honour system, but a woman with two kids stole the money in front of my eyes 6 feet away. They came running over from a house nearby. I don't think they were the caretakers because I didn't leave the full amount, just loose change, and they didn't demand payment. I am told the government is housing gypsies in these empty villages. I also read the German government paid Romania a bounty of $5,000 per capital for any German in about 1990, and the villages emptied within a year.
After Viscri a long beautiful but tiresome drive across country to Sibiu. Lots more villages and millions more potholes.
Arrived in Sibiu. The Garmin not able to find hotels or streets lately, so it is troublesome to fine my hotel. I stopped at my haven OMV gas station and the young man there went to a lot of trouble to find the hotel on his phone and show me. I then checked Google maps on my computer and then tried the Samsung Maps program which found the hotel in seconds and guided me to it. You just need to be on WIFI to start with (OMV always has good WIFI, good coffee, and nice sandwiches and pastry, plus great staff inside and out. I hope Bucharest is better because the Garmin was finding my hotels fine up to Alba Iulia. I also bought another 7 days vignette as mine was expiring May 25. I have been here a week now.
The Exclusive Hotel in Sibiu is the best one yet in Romania. Almost brand new. Best restaurant, best room, best staff, free parking, great WIF. Faults: sometimes smoke from smokers outdoors and in the bar, but not very bothersome; no BBC on the TV, also okay..
- wooden churches with huge wooden steeples
- gypsies here and there in the villages and cities
- log houses are very common, squared off logs
- middle aged fat women with shirt/blouse removed and wearing bra only (due to heat). I remember this from 40 years ago!
- bright red metal roofs replacing old red tile roofs in some areas
- people on the road sides picking ? nettles I think
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Random Notes on Romania:
- coffee - terrible everywhere except OMV gas station chain. Even in the luxury hotels. Best bet is an espresso lungo in a bar and hope they have a good machine
- beer - not great. No snacks available when you have a drink. People just drink period. Not unusual to see people drinking at 9 am in cafes. Update: CUIC draft beer is good.
- tourists - I am the only person other than Romanians everywhere I go. Not even German tourists. Update, lots of foreign tourists in Sighisoara though.
- language - very little English spoken. Usually none. Update, met several people who could speak good English and were eager to explain and discuss in Sighisoara. German spoken in Saxon area
- smoking - everywhere even in restaurants and it often seeps into hotel rooms through hallways and ventilation. It's their country and we were there once, but still worth a comment in my review in hopes that they will gradually further restrict smoking on premises or outside windows and ventilation
- WIFI - easy to find in gas stations or even try outside a hotel. Easy to book a hotel somewhere on the road using booking.com. Hotels have WIFI but it's important to verify on booking.com and then also check the comments from reviewers (the non-Balkan travellers) that the WIFI is in the rooms and that it is good
- FX - best to either change money in towns right after the border or look for the BRD bank sign. Euros are sometimes acceptable but change will be in LEI. I write down the exchange rates in a handy place for constant reference (e.g. EU to LEI and vv, CAD to LEI and vv). Also, just before I leave the country, I go to an exchange and change any local currency to next country currency, or change some Euros to next country currency). Small bills will often be an issue and some places are still stubborn about making change even in their own currency, although Romania it's not so much an issue. Be prepared for that though and just be persistent.
- quiet persistence will get you a long way. Any sign of disapproval shuts people down. Speak quietly and a little slowly in very simple English. Act happy, light, and easy going and somewhat low energy. I often got what I wanted after asking a few times in a different way and with a small smile. They are nearly always eager to make you happy so do not be afraid to ask for help or whatever you want. But things change instantly if they think you are not happy. Imagine having to deal with an unhappy tourist speaking loudly and fast in another language even if you are fluent --- very stressful
- language - I always start with a smile and hello. If I know hello in the local language, I use that and hello so they know I speak English
- gas/rest stops - the OMV stations are by far the best. Clean, nice cafe, usually good WIFI, excellent food, coffee, and service
- Garmin - the Garmin GPS is not quite current for the Balkans and I often find new roundabouts or other changes, but it's not usually a problem. The Garmin Text to Voice is not capable of distinguishing numbers, letters, and Roman numerals --- can be confusing at times until I realized that Samantha was actually pronouncing Simeon III as part of the name with eye, eye, eye added on.
Usually invaluable getting in and out of cities and towns, once you make a wrong turn, the Garmin can no longer keep up but I find looking at the tiny map more useful in getting the car back on track once I have made a wrong turn. Also, useful normally plus I use the icon in the top left a lot to make the turns properly and do not make them until you see 0 km on the screen.
Not having much luck finding specific locations such as hotels or streets using it unless the hotel is already listed in the Garmin, but I do eventually find my hotel. I have had to resort to stopped at an OMV in the city outskirts and then using my computer and Samsung phone Maps app, which is like GPS as long as you set up at a WIFI location. Learning to use the add on route function.
- driving speed - it's very important to drive the speed limit and not pass unless allowed (never in a village). The roads are fairly well marked and the Garmin shows the speed limit for the exact area you are in, and there are usually signs. There are police in most towns and they are often out checking for speeders. The oncoming cars and trucks will often blink to signal police ahead
- driving - signs - most signs are international and names spelled out in English or at least in English alphabet but Cyrillic is also common in Bulgaria, so learn a few key letters and become familiar with names of a few towns and cities there
- the roads - roads vary from really good to really terrible but all perfectly fine to drive. Just enjoy the drive and do not be in a hurry. Keep alert at all times for strange things on the road and strange moves from cars and trucks, horses and carts, ducks, sheep, sheepdogs, very suddenly the road changing from 2 to 1 lane, children, old people, wobbly cyclists, huge pot holes, construction without warning, somebody waving a red table tennis paddle, police, ambulances.
Never drive in the dark ever. EVER.
Drivers tend to try to pass, so be prepared to move over a little to accommodate several cars abreast more than the road is designed for. For this reason do not stay abreast of trucks for any longer than necessary to pass (or any other vehicles). Do not drive faster than you feel safe driving
- the road rules are similar to the rest of Europe and the signs are international
- driving style - as in all Europe, stay in the right lane and only move to the passing lane if you are actually passing. Do not feel compelled to pass if you are on a 2-lane highway, but let others pass you, by moving slightly to the left if the car behind you is closing up to pass
- trucks - as everywhere in the world, do not drive beside a truck unless you are passing and have a clear pass. Trucks may have to move over fast and you do not want to be in their path. Trucks pass too, and that can get hairy, so watch them for that. Trucks try to stay at one fixed speed so do not cut them off or they will drive right into you, especially on a hill
- border crossing - you will need passport and the registration for the vehicle. They will take it away and bring it back within 5-10 minutes. Very polite. Little English spoken or understood, but relaxed little smile, quiet voice, polite nods and gestures get you everywhere
- food in hotels - usually not great. The often have processed or low quality food, the breakfast buffet hot food is not kept hot, they have wieners and disgusting scrambled eggs, terrible coffee, no fruit or rotten or dried out fruit. It seems once you are booked in and or they have your cc number, they try to save pennies at your expense.
After leaving Szeged, Hungary, around noon (so hard to get moving, so much to research, ha!), I found a gas station and then got going. I like to start the day with a full tank.
The Garmin had trouble getting me out of town, so I ended up following signs. Maybe because I programmed in the nearest gas station. Probably better to just find one on the way, trouble is that method is dicey if they are all on the other side of the road.
The other thing to be dealt with was currency --- use up my Hungarian, save enough for any incidentals, and get some Romanian. I did that in Szeged.
I crossed through the border into Romania pretty smoothly There are still customs inspections because Romania is not a Schengen country although in the EU. A Schengen country is one of 25 European countries that have abolished border checks and passport requirements for their citizens. Also, this would affect me if I stay more than 90 days anywhere within the Schengen countries --- I'd have to get a long-stay visa. The border officials inspected my passport and car registration and that only took a few minutes. Update: A hotel receptionist told me that Romania is indeed a Schengen country but that Romania requires the vignette only if crossing by car from Hungary.
Take note Lonely Planet -- Immediately after the border, there is a ramshackle little booth and two huge signs with charts (that look pretty official) about buying a vignette (road tax). I am not exactly sure what the vignette means but I have heard about it and was penalized for not having one once in Czech Republic. All signs were in Romanian of course and the lady in the booth spoke not a word of anything but Romanian, but I got my 7-day vignette for 3 euroes or RON I forget which (RON or lei is the Romanian currency). I wanted a 30-day vignette as the country is pretty interesting and big, but her computer would only allow her to sell 7-day vignettes. She said I could buy extensions at a Tankstelle (German for gas station). My amazing language skills got me through that. She spoke Romanian and I just somehow understood her. Nothing said about a vignette for Romania in LP, but there is a good explanation of Schengen countries and it does mention the vignette requirement when you cross into Bulgaria.
Roads in Romania are paved, probably the main difference since 1973, when I last passed through this country. As I remembered, the people are more "can do", and they cheerfully give you change for big bills and waive the toilet fee. The villages and towns are rundown and the houses the same as they were in 1900. I had a very good coffee and a kitkat for lunch at a gas station (OMV chain only, other gas station serve the horrible powder). I also bought some cherries, strawberries, and tomatoes beside the road (they have plastic bags now, but the fruit including strawberries is just in a huge heap. Tomatoes look good but are soso.
Driving was okay, but very disjointed, with little stretches of highway, lots of hilly narrow roads, lots of trucks, etc. There are no shoulders (either gravel or paved) on the roads and sometimes there is a horse and wagon, semi-truck and a car all tandem passing. Also a pedestrian or cyclist. I saw people stooking hay by hand as well. The stooks are constructed around a couple of tall poles and the hay is formed into a curly top not. Very cute and crazy. Lots of sheep herds. Farms and forests.
I drove all the way to Hunadoara the first day with intension of seeing the Roman city of Sarmeigetusa Ulpia Traiania nearby. Unfortunately Garmin took me the long way around. In future, I must also check the map with the Garmin directions to make sure the route is correct. I don't know how you check that on Garmin or how you change the route like you can with Google maps. All this is sooooo easy with Google maps. Anyway, I researched a bit more online and found out there are two ruins about 40 km apart --- one Roman and one Dacian, so I am opting for the older Dacian one. Sarmizegetusa Ulpia Traiania is the Roman one and Sarmizegetusa Regia is the Dacian. So get that straight and also the spelling if you ever want Google and Garmin to have a chance. It is not easy to research without really good guidebooks.
I booked a hotel on booking.com once I arrived in Hunadoara (just parked outside a hotel on the outskirts and used their free WIFI). The Corvini-Ana after the nearby Castle. It is something else. First the town, extremely industrial or was, the factories are very old and mostly falling down. Nuclear power plant (can't imagine what state of repair that's in). There's an Assa Abloy plant here too (hey Meg). The hotel is old and dusty, plus allows smoking in the lobby and dining room (everywhere in Romania). Very dusty and dirty carpets but good bathroom, good WIFI, free parking on the street, clean bed but uncomfortable ---- perfectly adequate and the price (23 euros) brings the hotel average down nicely. So much for the plan to splurge tonight. The food is the frozen and deep fried variety (even here). Local beer not great. The breakfast not worth the 4 euros. Coffee bad (no 3 cups today). Went for walk up to the castle but not motivated to enter. Very nice on the outside though.
May 20, Wed. Alba Iulia, Romania
First thing in the morning, I drove up the mountain to Sarmizegetusa Regia. The last 18 km of the road is dirt and has many potholes. That section takes about an hour. On the way back down I was very glad of the manual transmission, as it is easy to coast down in first gear and not have to use the brake. The site itself is lovely, quiet, only a few people walking around. Good interpretive signs. A guard and ticket taker. The site has a lot of interesting walls, temples, altars, pillars (very large diameter rounds -- about 6 feet in diameter and 10 inches thick, convex both sides), upright stone circles (like stonehenge but different shapes), paved roads, etc. Two kinds of stone, a very black stone, and a light sandstone. The Romans pillaged it extensively for building stones.
Then on to Alba Iulia, former Roman garrison, with later fortress built on top. Very much restored and beautified with a luxury hotel inside. I stayed there (Medieval Inn). Walked into town for a beer --- Stella this time, sick of the eastern European beer. Very hip bar. Dinner in the hotel was mediocre but the wine was good. Would not stay in this hotel again --- I hate those hot rooms on the top floor with small high windows. I had the fan on all the time. The hotel itself was extremely beautiful. The breakfast wasn't great and the restaurant was average. Very little English spoken.
May 21, Thursday, Seghetu Marmatei, Romania.
I left Alba Iulia early and went to the gas station and exchange bank (BRD) to change Euros into Lei. The hotel was pretty fancy but not prepared to take cash unless I had exact change. I paid in Euros no problem with the published rate. The bank rate was very slightly less.
On down the road north to Seghetu Marmatei near the Ukraine border. Very quickly came to Auild, which has a great fortified Saxon church. Had a look. The town seems very nice and lively with restaurants and lots of people about. Kept driving and stopped at an OVM for sandwich and coffee. Tried WIFI but could not get on. After Baie Mare, the world changed drastically. Back to 1900.
The Hotel Gradina Morii by the river was nice enough (except for the breakfast) but it was my first and only experience so far with not getting the Guaranteed Best Price. The staff who booked me in gave me their regular posted rate for a single of 170 (less than the booking.com price) but the next morning the woman on duty changed it back to the higher price. So, something to watch for. Usually it is cheaper on booking.com at least less than the posted rate. You might get a better rate just walking in especially if you are local.
Here's what I wrote to the family:
"After Budapest (falling down, but great museums) and Szeged (wine festival), I drove into Romania, which is very backward. It sounds mundane, but it's been quite a trip. I roamed around for a few days, saw a pre-Roman Dacian fortress and worship sight (kind of like a stone henge and Mayan temple combined) way way up in the mountains. I had to drive about 50 km and the last 18 km on a dirt road with a million pot holes. Good thing I am an amazing driver.
After one night in a kind of Transylvania spooky old hotel by a river next to a castle not too far from the nuclear reactor and falling down soviet era factories for 25 euros (nice but very dusty and old), I decided to splurge and stayed in a luxury hotel (still only 80 euros) inside a restored fortress the next night. Very posh, and I walked into town and had a Stella in a trendy bar (sick of the eastern European beer). Both hotels included breakfast, free parking, and strong WIFI.
Today I headed north to the Ukrainian border where it is like 100 years ago. I am nearly to my destination now, and have stopped for "coffee" and to book a hotel online. This northern area is through the looking glass. Normally, the drivers here obey the speed limits meticulously because there are cops everywhere. But in this area, they are nuts. There is one highway in Romania with paved verges so they use the verge as another lane. At one point, one car passed another car passing the first car (3 cars and a semi abreast on the 2 lane highway). Also, somebody passed me on the right and left at the same time. On those paved edges, there can be horses and wagons, parked cars, old people, people wobbling on bicycles (drunk?), so again, good thing I am sooo skilled.
Just when I thought that was enough excitement, I passed a funeral procession which of course, also had to walk on the highway. The coffin was on an old wagon with horse pulling it. Every body walking ahead and behind. The coffin was covered in spruce bows and flowers and they were carrying big bows and flowers and crosses (kind of Christmassy). Everybody dressed in black. I am keeping my eyes opne for gypsies (Roma) but so far only one lady last night in the town.
Just for variety, I visited a fortified Saxon church this morning. Who knew there were Saxon settlements here in the 1400's. Another chapter of history to check out. The museums explain a lot, so I try to make time for those. "
May 22, Friday, Sighisoara, Romania.
Long drive from the north, through very poor country. Not a great first impression of Sighisoara but I now love it. I was exhausted from too much driving, so need a break from it all. No crazy about Villa Franka at all.
I had a great dinner at the Alte Post, German restaurant, a huge smoked pork hock with beans. Breakfast the next morning was nauseating and could not get the smell out of my nose for 24 hours.
May 23, Saturday, Sighisoara, Romania.
Needed a longer break, so I am staying here. I found a better hotel --- Central Park within a block of Villa Franka, same price and 100 x better. The owner Mihai was extremely helpful and gave me a nice room with full windows and balcony. Booking.com said they were full, but walk-in got me a room (in the morning). I love this hotel. Free parking courtyard, lovely interior patio, very nice helpful staff. For only 65 Euros a night.
Took a short drive through the country side looking at Saxon fortified churches. Very lovely and interesting. Some of the villages esp. off the main road are incredibly poor and the dirt road just peters out in a mud hole. Farming is done with hand made hoes and rakes, horses and old wooden wagons in much of Romania.
I had a salad for lunch at the hotel and then just whiled away the afternoon and evening in the hotel. I needed rest. Great WIFI, did laundry, and slept.
May 24, Sunday, Sighisoara, Romania
Woke up to a nice fresh day. Hotel Breakfast was quite good. Coffee average, even had orange, and eggs and bacon were hot, bread not so good but fresh croissants. Before 9 am, I walked up through the town to the Saxon graveyard to see if there were any names similar to the Mennonites (none, although Reimer is in the list of Saxon names). The town is a lot nicer than I thought. I waited until the church opened at 10 am, well worth the wait. The fellow in charge is half Saxon and was very informative. Nearly all the Saxons (Germans) left. Saxons came from Franconia, their dialect is apparently Luxembourgish. The few Saxons (Sash as they are known here) came starting in the 12th C. in order to defend the borders. They built fortified churches, farms, etc.
There are a number of these "Bradeni" (after the church where about 100 were found) or "Stollen" chests at the church (also called Vorrats Truhen which means hoard/reserve/stash chest/trunk). They were used to store dry goods such as flour, dried fruit, etc. Each family had one in the loft of the church in case they were attacked. They also stored "lard" which was a side of pig in the church and one tower and each family could slice off one week's worth from their "lard" after church each Sunday. The lards were hung on numbered hooks, one per family. The church guide tipped me to the Monastery church where I could hear the Sash dialect, so I went there to wait until 11 am and church was out. The remaining Sash people here --- very well dressed and nice cars came out and indeed spoke their dialect. Wow!. The Sash converted from Catholism to Evangelical Lutheran in 1544. German is commonly spoken here.
Today I met an older couple from Seattle travelling by train through the Balkans.
I had lunch at the Alte Post today --- beer, sausage, and cabbage. I am really enjoying the cabbage. Tomatoes should be good but are disappointing.
May 25, Sibiu, Romania, Exclusive Hotel
I left Sighisoara but could have stayed longer and really enjoyed the Central Park Hotel. I met a nice Canadian family living in Budapest and was invited to stay with them anytime. That would be fabulous as I would like to spend more time there and they are great people.
I drove to Viscri, another Saxon fortified church, very very old. Lots going on there with restorations, and there are actually tour groups, still only about 8-10 people on the site. Mostly Germans seeking roots. My German is coming is so handy here as many Romanians in this area speak German. Prince Charles has a castle in the area and has restored a few houses. These houses are quite different and have a barn attached at the back. None of the other villages have barns with each house, attached or not. In Russia, these were torn down during collectivization as no individual could own livestock.
There is a small museum worth looking at for the organization of the villages and the use of "reconciliation" and "case". Each man had to reconcile accounts with the case. There are a lot of old wooden chests, about 2 feet long, which apparently held all the accounts and possibly the money too. The word case is curious --- I am thinking caisse or cache in French meaning a kind of bank or safe place to keep your money. From http://www.etymonline.com : "receptacle," early 14c., from Anglo-French and Old North French casse (Old French chasse "case, reliquary;" Modern French châsse), from Latin capsa "box, repository" (especially for books), from capere "to take, hold" (see capable).
There was a WC in the village and money to be left on honour system, but a woman with two kids stole the money in front of my eyes 6 feet away. They came running over from a house nearby. I don't think they were the caretakers because I didn't leave the full amount, just loose change, and they didn't demand payment. I am told the government is housing gypsies in these empty villages. I also read the German government paid Romania a bounty of $5,000 per capital for any German in about 1990, and the villages emptied within a year.
After Viscri a long beautiful but tiresome drive across country to Sibiu. Lots more villages and millions more potholes.
Arrived in Sibiu. The Garmin not able to find hotels or streets lately, so it is troublesome to fine my hotel. I stopped at my haven OMV gas station and the young man there went to a lot of trouble to find the hotel on his phone and show me. I then checked Google maps on my computer and then tried the Samsung Maps program which found the hotel in seconds and guided me to it. You just need to be on WIFI to start with (OMV always has good WIFI, good coffee, and nice sandwiches and pastry, plus great staff inside and out. I hope Bucharest is better because the Garmin was finding my hotels fine up to Alba Iulia. I also bought another 7 days vignette as mine was expiring May 25. I have been here a week now.
The Exclusive Hotel in Sibiu is the best one yet in Romania. Almost brand new. Best restaurant, best room, best staff, free parking, great WIF. Faults: sometimes smoke from smokers outdoors and in the bar, but not very bothersome; no BBC on the TV, also okay..
So catch up on Romania. I loved Romania, very interesting country, and would stay another week at least if I didn't have so much more to do. It is a road trip after all, and an overview.
So Transylvania is the most interesting because of the German people who lived there for 800 years and then left in 1990 (500,000 Germans or Saxons as they are called left). They were the ones responsible for any prosperity there. There are 250 villages left empty, with gorgeous fortified churches, and lots of houses and farms. The Romanian government took ownership of everything. Romanians and gypsies have been moved in. Still, there are great larger towns there like Sighisoara my favourite. The hotel was owned by a Canadian-Romanian family --- great people. I had fun looking around the cemetery and standing around after church to listen to the Saxon dialect (no Mennonite names, no plautdeetch), except for the name Reimer and some people were saying things like gundach (good day).
I have also been looking into the Jewish history here in the Balkans. Mostly of course, all dead, but there are synagogues that are museums and give tours and history.
Bucharest was not a great city, all falling down, and museums a mess, mostly closed for renovations. The collections are marvellous and they only show a small amount, but not much English explanation. The art museum is amazing (although the Brukenthal in Sibiu is more interesting). The history museum has an incredible gold horde, and the peasant museum is amazing. The most amazing thing in Bucharest is the Palace of Parliament, the largest office building in the world, and very gorgeous built in the 1980's by the infamous Ceausecu. All marble, they say all the resources of Romania are in that building. I did a tour and the guide was great, provided a lot of extra information.
I found one good restaurant and ate there 3 times --- Romanian live music every night --- free and fantastic, and good Romanian food and of course good wine. Not a word of English, but we managed.
Things seen:
- huge flock of sheep and huge fluffy dirty matted sheep dogs (like a very big English sheep dog) and shepherd with Tyrolian hats- wooden churches with huge wooden steeples
- gypsies here and there in the villages and cities
- log houses are very common, squared off logs
- middle aged fat women with shirt/blouse removed and wearing bra only (due to heat). I remember this from 40 years ago!
- bright red metal roofs replacing old red tile roofs in some areas
- people on the road sides picking ? nettles I think
-
I don't know what I'll find in Bulgaria --- not keen on monasteries, but I'll check out Plovdiv --- it has a Roman amphitheatre.
- coffee - terrible everywhere except OMV gas station chain. Even in the luxury hotels. Best bet is an espresso lungo in a bar and hope they have a good machine
- beer - not great. No snacks available when you have a drink. People just drink period. Not unusual to see people drinking at 9 am in cafes. Update: CUIC draft beer is good.
- tourists - I am the only person other than Romanians everywhere I go. Not even German tourists. Update, lots of foreign tourists in Sighisoara though.
- language - very little English spoken. Usually none. Update, met several people who could speak good English and were eager to explain and discuss in Sighisoara. German spoken in Saxon area
- smoking - everywhere even in restaurants and it often seeps into hotel rooms through hallways and ventilation. It's their country and we were there once, but still worth a comment in my review in hopes that they will gradually further restrict smoking on premises or outside windows and ventilation
- WIFI - easy to find in gas stations or even try outside a hotel. Easy to book a hotel somewhere on the road using booking.com. Hotels have WIFI but it's important to verify on booking.com and then also check the comments from reviewers (the non-Balkan travellers) that the WIFI is in the rooms and that it is good
- FX - best to either change money in towns right after the border or look for the BRD bank sign. Euros are sometimes acceptable but change will be in LEI. I write down the exchange rates in a handy place for constant reference (e.g. EU to LEI and vv, CAD to LEI and vv). Also, just before I leave the country, I go to an exchange and change any local currency to next country currency, or change some Euros to next country currency). Small bills will often be an issue and some places are still stubborn about making change even in their own currency, although Romania it's not so much an issue. Be prepared for that though and just be persistent.
- quiet persistence will get you a long way. Any sign of disapproval shuts people down. Speak quietly and a little slowly in very simple English. Act happy, light, and easy going and somewhat low energy. I often got what I wanted after asking a few times in a different way and with a small smile. They are nearly always eager to make you happy so do not be afraid to ask for help or whatever you want. But things change instantly if they think you are not happy. Imagine having to deal with an unhappy tourist speaking loudly and fast in another language even if you are fluent --- very stressful
- language - I always start with a smile and hello. If I know hello in the local language, I use that and hello so they know I speak English
- gas/rest stops - the OMV stations are by far the best. Clean, nice cafe, usually good WIFI, excellent food, coffee, and service
- Garmin - the Garmin GPS is not quite current for the Balkans and I often find new roundabouts or other changes, but it's not usually a problem. The Garmin Text to Voice is not capable of distinguishing numbers, letters, and Roman numerals --- can be confusing at times until I realized that Samantha was actually pronouncing Simeon III as part of the name with eye, eye, eye added on.
Usually invaluable getting in and out of cities and towns, once you make a wrong turn, the Garmin can no longer keep up but I find looking at the tiny map more useful in getting the car back on track once I have made a wrong turn. Also, useful normally plus I use the icon in the top left a lot to make the turns properly and do not make them until you see 0 km on the screen.
Not having much luck finding specific locations such as hotels or streets using it unless the hotel is already listed in the Garmin, but I do eventually find my hotel. I have had to resort to stopped at an OMV in the city outskirts and then using my computer and Samsung phone Maps app, which is like GPS as long as you set up at a WIFI location. Learning to use the add on route function.
- driving speed - it's very important to drive the speed limit and not pass unless allowed (never in a village). The roads are fairly well marked and the Garmin shows the speed limit for the exact area you are in, and there are usually signs. There are police in most towns and they are often out checking for speeders. The oncoming cars and trucks will often blink to signal police ahead
- driving - signs - most signs are international and names spelled out in English or at least in English alphabet but Cyrillic is also common in Bulgaria, so learn a few key letters and become familiar with names of a few towns and cities there
- the roads - roads vary from really good to really terrible but all perfectly fine to drive. Just enjoy the drive and do not be in a hurry. Keep alert at all times for strange things on the road and strange moves from cars and trucks, horses and carts, ducks, sheep, sheepdogs, very suddenly the road changing from 2 to 1 lane, children, old people, wobbly cyclists, huge pot holes, construction without warning, somebody waving a red table tennis paddle, police, ambulances.
Never drive in the dark ever. EVER.
Drivers tend to try to pass, so be prepared to move over a little to accommodate several cars abreast more than the road is designed for. For this reason do not stay abreast of trucks for any longer than necessary to pass (or any other vehicles). Do not drive faster than you feel safe driving
- the road rules are similar to the rest of Europe and the signs are international
- driving style - as in all Europe, stay in the right lane and only move to the passing lane if you are actually passing. Do not feel compelled to pass if you are on a 2-lane highway, but let others pass you, by moving slightly to the left if the car behind you is closing up to pass
- trucks - as everywhere in the world, do not drive beside a truck unless you are passing and have a clear pass. Trucks may have to move over fast and you do not want to be in their path. Trucks pass too, and that can get hairy, so watch them for that. Trucks try to stay at one fixed speed so do not cut them off or they will drive right into you, especially on a hill
- border crossing - you will need passport and the registration for the vehicle. They will take it away and bring it back within 5-10 minutes. Very polite. Little English spoken or understood, but relaxed little smile, quiet voice, polite nods and gestures get you everywhere
- food in hotels - usually not great. The often have processed or low quality food, the breakfast buffet hot food is not kept hot, they have wieners and disgusting scrambled eggs, terrible coffee, no fruit or rotten or dried out fruit. It seems once you are booked in and or they have your cc number, they try to save pennies at your expense.
Saturday, May 16, 2015
Balkan Road Trip - Days 3-6 (May 15-19), Slovakia, Budapest & Szeget
Driving: I left Krakow late on Friday morning, May 15, driving about 400 km. and arriving around 6 pm in Budapest. I am having no desire to get going early --- I am tired and a little overwhelmed by all the travel detail.
Using the trust Garmin also known as sat nav. or GPS, it was a easy driving out of Krakow and into Budapest. Again, I drove directly to my hotel without a problem.
But there was a strange hitch along the way. The Garmin directed me on a side trip through tiny country roads --- why --- a short cut, avoiding construction. It was worrying at the time, as the road was barely a road. It was 4 pm by then but I reminded myself I was safe as long as I was in my car.
One more problem arose with the car --- a warning light went on, and there were some beeps. Of course I was very concerned about what to do --- find a service station, phone Peugot. Finally, this morning I looked up in the manual, but it was in French, and so I translated using my computer online. It turns out to be tire pressure. Hope it's not a flat. Will deal with that when I leave on Monday.
Before I left Krakow, I had to figure out what funds to exchange to pay my Polish hotel bill, guess what I'd need on the road before the Slovakia border, and change some Euros in florints. I ended. Next challenge, getting gas (diesel) in Poland. Just making the hotel reservation was a big decision, but I think I am getting back to normal.
After the cantor, I walked over to my parking lot with luggage, programmed my Garmin, and took off.
I filled up the tank just before the Slovakia border and used my credit card. I saw a Statoil and decided to check it out. Also had a hot dog and coffee. I was in kind of stupor --- still tired and overwhelmed I guess.
Slovakia: The drive through Slovakia was pleasant and the roads are good. There are no motorways between Krakow and Budapest. It's 2 lanes nearly all the way, through every village, town, and city, with many many turns, intersections, cross-walks. The speed limits are low and nobody speeds, not one km over the limit. The country side is really beautiful, small picturesque villages, snow covered mountains and rolling hills in the distance. Small towns and farm lands all the way, kind of alpine with lots of log cabin houses, interesting roofs, lots of heritage looking wooden churches, but alas no time to stop, even to eat or gas up.
Hotel: My Budapest hotel (Benczur) is not in the centre, but it's okay, and only 60 euros plus 13 euros parking. I have been walking a lot and it feels great. Breakfast is okay, and the coffee is much better here in Hungary.
The first evening I was exhausted but walked into the centre to an area with lots of bars. It didn't work out -- the bar couldn't serve food, so the beer really hit me. Walked back to the hotel in the dark through a very bad area. There is no street lighting in Budapest at night. I ate at the hotel, but that was not great. I had goulash and the dumplings were raw dough, so they brought me a dessert instead which I did not want. Fell asleep immediately. Oh yes, also hit my head pretty hard in the parking lot ducking under the gate.
The room is really nice, with a little balcony, so next morning, I decided to book 2 more nights on booking.com and got even better rate.
First on the agenda, find a FX place to change Euros into florints (about 300 florints for on Euro). Then walked all the walk down to the Parliament Buildings and found the Art Nouveau Museum. Very nice, had a coffee and sour cherry cake. Then walked along looking for Art Nouveau. The Gresham (Mariott) Hotel is outstanding. Next went to the Museum of Fine Arts. Outstanding building and exhibits. The buildings is falling apart and is mostly closed with a small exhibit. They are renovating it. The Museum of Fine Arts is also closed for renovations until 2018. I recommend coming in a few years when all these renovations are finished.
Today I found a lovely coffee shop and a fabulous restaurant near the hotel. There isn't much in this area and it is a bit dark to be walking far at night.
The whole city is falling down and have not been maintained since before the war. The buildings are late 19th C. and up to 1930's. Lots of them are empty, with broken windows, or a bit of boarding. Some have rough covered walkways in front for safety of the pedestrians. Only around the Parliament Buildings, things are glitzy and slick. I am quite amazed about the state of the city --- it might as well be 1973 when I was last here.
On the way out of town, I stopped at a gas station and the fellow very cheerfully adjusted the air in my tires with a portable machine. The warming light was still on but the booklet indicated some kind of reset was required. I thought perhaps restarting the car but within a few hours discovered the button for that purpose. I also played around with the cruise control. The controls are directly behind the steering wheel and cannot be seen while driving.
Szeged -- I drove to Szeged, it's not far, with the trusty Garmin. This is a very lively town. The Korona hotel was a big surprise and very cheap. It looks terrible outside but is a gem inside for the price, with a lovely dining room (in the basement of course), and good breakfast and coffee except no fruit. The location at first glance is awful with a tram running within a few feet, but it's actually right on one of the main squares, and a few blocks from everything.
I had a good walk around, there was a wine festival going on with about 50 of those little cabins in the square, and lots of good food. The town is in disrepair with the river walk fenced off. A few terrific Art Nouveau buildings to look at too.
Using the trust Garmin also known as sat nav. or GPS, it was a easy driving out of Krakow and into Budapest. Again, I drove directly to my hotel without a problem.
But there was a strange hitch along the way. The Garmin directed me on a side trip through tiny country roads --- why --- a short cut, avoiding construction. It was worrying at the time, as the road was barely a road. It was 4 pm by then but I reminded myself I was safe as long as I was in my car.
One more problem arose with the car --- a warning light went on, and there were some beeps. Of course I was very concerned about what to do --- find a service station, phone Peugot. Finally, this morning I looked up in the manual, but it was in French, and so I translated using my computer online. It turns out to be tire pressure. Hope it's not a flat. Will deal with that when I leave on Monday.
Before I left Krakow, I had to figure out what funds to exchange to pay my Polish hotel bill, guess what I'd need on the road before the Slovakia border, and change some Euros in florints. I ended. Next challenge, getting gas (diesel) in Poland. Just making the hotel reservation was a big decision, but I think I am getting back to normal.
After the cantor, I walked over to my parking lot with luggage, programmed my Garmin, and took off.
I filled up the tank just before the Slovakia border and used my credit card. I saw a Statoil and decided to check it out. Also had a hot dog and coffee. I was in kind of stupor --- still tired and overwhelmed I guess.
Slovakia: The drive through Slovakia was pleasant and the roads are good. There are no motorways between Krakow and Budapest. It's 2 lanes nearly all the way, through every village, town, and city, with many many turns, intersections, cross-walks. The speed limits are low and nobody speeds, not one km over the limit. The country side is really beautiful, small picturesque villages, snow covered mountains and rolling hills in the distance. Small towns and farm lands all the way, kind of alpine with lots of log cabin houses, interesting roofs, lots of heritage looking wooden churches, but alas no time to stop, even to eat or gas up.
Hotel: My Budapest hotel (Benczur) is not in the centre, but it's okay, and only 60 euros plus 13 euros parking. I have been walking a lot and it feels great. Breakfast is okay, and the coffee is much better here in Hungary.
The first evening I was exhausted but walked into the centre to an area with lots of bars. It didn't work out -- the bar couldn't serve food, so the beer really hit me. Walked back to the hotel in the dark through a very bad area. There is no street lighting in Budapest at night. I ate at the hotel, but that was not great. I had goulash and the dumplings were raw dough, so they brought me a dessert instead which I did not want. Fell asleep immediately. Oh yes, also hit my head pretty hard in the parking lot ducking under the gate.
The room is really nice, with a little balcony, so next morning, I decided to book 2 more nights on booking.com and got even better rate.
First on the agenda, find a FX place to change Euros into florints (about 300 florints for on Euro). Then walked all the walk down to the Parliament Buildings and found the Art Nouveau Museum. Very nice, had a coffee and sour cherry cake. Then walked along looking for Art Nouveau. The Gresham (Mariott) Hotel is outstanding. Next went to the Museum of Fine Arts. Outstanding building and exhibits. The buildings is falling apart and is mostly closed with a small exhibit. They are renovating it. The Museum of Fine Arts is also closed for renovations until 2018. I recommend coming in a few years when all these renovations are finished.
Today I found a lovely coffee shop and a fabulous restaurant near the hotel. There isn't much in this area and it is a bit dark to be walking far at night.
The whole city is falling down and have not been maintained since before the war. The buildings are late 19th C. and up to 1930's. Lots of them are empty, with broken windows, or a bit of boarding. Some have rough covered walkways in front for safety of the pedestrians. Only around the Parliament Buildings, things are glitzy and slick. I am quite amazed about the state of the city --- it might as well be 1973 when I was last here.
On the way out of town, I stopped at a gas station and the fellow very cheerfully adjusted the air in my tires with a portable machine. The warming light was still on but the booklet indicated some kind of reset was required. I thought perhaps restarting the car but within a few hours discovered the button for that purpose. I also played around with the cruise control. The controls are directly behind the steering wheel and cannot be seen while driving.
Szeged -- I drove to Szeged, it's not far, with the trusty Garmin. This is a very lively town. The Korona hotel was a big surprise and very cheap. It looks terrible outside but is a gem inside for the price, with a lovely dining room (in the basement of course), and good breakfast and coffee except no fruit. The location at first glance is awful with a tram running within a few feet, but it's actually right on one of the main squares, and a few blocks from everything.
I had a good walk around, there was a wine festival going on with about 50 of those little cabins in the square, and lots of good food. The town is in disrepair with the river walk fenced off. A few terrific Art Nouveau buildings to look at too.
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