After leaving Szeged, Hungary, around noon (so hard to get moving, so much to research, ha!), I found a gas station and then got going. I like to start the day with a full tank.
The Garmin had trouble getting me out of town, so I ended up following signs. Maybe because I programmed in the nearest gas station. Probably better to just find one on the way, trouble is that method is dicey if they are all on the other side of the road.
The other thing to be dealt with was currency --- use up my Hungarian, save enough for any incidentals, and get some Romanian. I did that in Szeged.
I crossed through the border into Romania pretty smoothly There are still customs inspections because Romania is not a Schengen country although in the EU. A Schengen country is one of 25 European countries that have abolished border checks and passport requirements for their citizens. Also, this would affect me if I stay more than 90 days anywhere within the Schengen countries --- I'd have to get a long-stay visa. The border officials inspected my passport and car registration and that only took a few minutes. Update: A hotel receptionist told me that Romania is indeed a Schengen country but that Romania requires the vignette only if crossing by car from Hungary.
Take note Lonely Planet -- Immediately after the border, there is a ramshackle little booth and two huge signs with charts (that look pretty official) about buying a vignette (road tax). I am not exactly sure what the vignette means but I have heard about it and was penalized for not having one once in Czech Republic. All signs were in Romanian of course and the lady in the booth spoke not a word of anything but Romanian, but I got my 7-day vignette for 3 euroes or RON I forget which (RON or lei is the Romanian currency). I wanted a 30-day vignette as the country is pretty interesting and big, but her computer would only allow her to sell 7-day vignettes. She said I could buy extensions at a Tankstelle (German for gas station). My amazing language skills got me through that. She spoke Romanian and I just somehow understood her. Nothing said about a vignette for Romania in LP, but there is a good explanation of Schengen countries and it does mention the vignette requirement when you cross into Bulgaria.
Roads in Romania are paved, probably the main difference since 1973, when I last passed through this country. As I remembered, the people are more "can do", and they cheerfully give you change for big bills and waive the toilet fee. The villages and towns are rundown and the houses the same as they were in 1900. I had a very good coffee and a kitkat for lunch at a gas station (OMV chain only, other gas station serve the horrible powder). I also bought some cherries, strawberries, and tomatoes beside the road (they have plastic bags now, but the fruit including strawberries is just in a huge heap. Tomatoes look good but are soso.
Driving was okay, but very disjointed, with little stretches of highway, lots of hilly narrow roads, lots of trucks, etc. There are no shoulders (either gravel or paved) on the roads and sometimes there is a horse and wagon, semi-truck and a car all tandem passing. Also a pedestrian or cyclist. I saw people stooking hay by hand as well. The stooks are constructed around a couple of tall poles and the hay is formed into a curly top not. Very cute and crazy. Lots of sheep herds. Farms and forests.
I drove all the way to Hunadoara the first day with intension of seeing the Roman city of Sarmeigetusa Ulpia Traiania nearby. Unfortunately Garmin took me the long way around. In future, I must also check the map with the Garmin directions to make sure the route is correct. I don't know how you check that on Garmin or how you change the route like you can with Google maps. All this is sooooo easy with Google maps. Anyway, I researched a bit more online and found out there are two ruins about 40 km apart --- one Roman and one Dacian, so I am opting for the older Dacian one. Sarmizegetusa Ulpia Traiania is the Roman one and Sarmizegetusa Regia is the Dacian. So get that straight and also the spelling if you ever want Google and Garmin to have a chance. It is not easy to research without really good guidebooks.
I booked a hotel on booking.com once I arrived in Hunadoara (just parked outside a hotel on the outskirts and used their free WIFI). The Corvini-Ana after the nearby Castle. It is something else. First the town, extremely industrial or was, the factories are very old and mostly falling down. Nuclear power plant (can't imagine what state of repair that's in). There's an Assa Abloy plant here too (hey Meg). The hotel is old and dusty, plus allows smoking in the lobby and dining room (everywhere in Romania). Very dusty and dirty carpets but good bathroom, good WIFI, free parking on the street, clean bed but uncomfortable ---- perfectly adequate and the price (23 euros) brings the hotel average down nicely. So much for the plan to splurge tonight. The food is the frozen and deep fried variety (even here). Local beer not great. The breakfast not worth the 4 euros. Coffee bad (no 3 cups today). Went for walk up to the castle but not motivated to enter. Very nice on the outside though.
May 20, Wed. Alba Iulia, Romania
First thing in the morning, I drove up the mountain to Sarmizegetusa Regia. The last 18 km of the road is dirt and has many potholes. That section takes about an hour. On the way back down I was very glad of the manual transmission, as it is easy to coast down in first gear and not have to use the brake. The site itself is lovely, quiet, only a few people walking around. Good interpretive signs. A guard and ticket taker. The site has a lot of interesting walls, temples, altars, pillars (very large diameter rounds -- about 6 feet in diameter and 10 inches thick, convex both sides), upright stone circles (like stonehenge but different shapes), paved roads, etc. Two kinds of stone, a very black stone, and a light sandstone. The Romans pillaged it extensively for building stones.
Then on to Alba Iulia, former Roman garrison, with later fortress built on top. Very much restored and beautified with a luxury hotel inside. I stayed there (Medieval Inn). Walked into town for a beer --- Stella this time, sick of the eastern European beer. Very hip bar. Dinner in the hotel was mediocre but the wine was good. Would not stay in this hotel again --- I hate those hot rooms on the top floor with small high windows. I had the fan on all the time. The hotel itself was extremely beautiful. The breakfast wasn't great and the restaurant was average. Very little English spoken.
May 21, Thursday, Seghetu Marmatei, Romania.
I left Alba Iulia early and went to the gas station and exchange bank (BRD) to change Euros into Lei. The hotel was pretty fancy but not prepared to take cash unless I had exact change. I paid in Euros no problem with the published rate. The bank rate was very slightly less.
On down the road north to Seghetu Marmatei near the Ukraine border. Very quickly came to Auild, which has a great fortified Saxon church. Had a look. The town seems very nice and lively with restaurants and lots of people about. Kept driving and stopped at an OVM for sandwich and coffee. Tried WIFI but could not get on. After Baie Mare, the world changed drastically. Back to 1900.
The Hotel Gradina Morii by the river was nice enough (except for the breakfast) but it was my first and only experience so far with not getting the Guaranteed Best Price. The staff who booked me in gave me their regular posted rate for a single of 170 (less than the booking.com price) but the next morning the woman on duty changed it back to the higher price. So, something to watch for. Usually it is cheaper on booking.com at least less than the posted rate. You might get a better rate just walking in especially if you are local.
Here's what I wrote to the family:
"After Budapest (falling down, but great museums) and Szeged (wine festival), I drove into Romania, which is very backward. It sounds mundane, but it's been quite a trip. I roamed around for a few days, saw a pre-Roman Dacian fortress and worship sight (kind of like a stone henge and Mayan temple combined) way way up in the mountains. I had to drive about 50 km and the last 18 km on a dirt road with a million pot holes. Good thing I am an amazing driver.
After one night in a kind of Transylvania spooky old hotel by a river next to a castle not too far from the nuclear reactor and falling down soviet era factories for 25 euros (nice but very dusty and old), I decided to splurge and stayed in a luxury hotel (still only 80 euros) inside a restored fortress the next night. Very posh, and I walked into town and had a Stella in a trendy bar (sick of the eastern European beer). Both hotels included breakfast, free parking, and strong WIFI.
Today I headed north to the Ukrainian border where it is like 100 years ago. I am nearly to my destination now, and have stopped for "coffee" and to book a hotel online. This northern area is through the looking glass. Normally, the drivers here obey the speed limits meticulously because there are cops everywhere. But in this area, they are nuts. There is one highway in Romania with paved verges so they use the verge as another lane. At one point, one car passed another car passing the first car (3 cars and a semi abreast on the 2 lane highway). Also, somebody passed me on the right and left at the same time. On those paved edges, there can be horses and wagons, parked cars, old people, people wobbling on bicycles (drunk?), so again, good thing I am sooo skilled.
Just when I thought that was enough excitement, I passed a funeral procession which of course, also had to walk on the highway. The coffin was on an old wagon with horse pulling it. Every body walking ahead and behind. The coffin was covered in spruce bows and flowers and they were carrying big bows and flowers and crosses (kind of Christmassy). Everybody dressed in black. I am keeping my eyes opne for gypsies (Roma) but so far only one lady last night in the town.
Just for variety, I visited a fortified Saxon church this morning. Who knew there were Saxon settlements here in the 1400's. Another chapter of history to check out. The museums explain a lot, so I try to make time for those. "
May 22, Friday, Sighisoara, Romania.
Long drive from the north, through very poor country. Not a great first impression of Sighisoara but I now love it. I was exhausted from too much driving, so need a break from it all. No crazy about Villa Franka at all.
I had a great dinner at the Alte Post, German restaurant, a huge smoked pork hock with beans. Breakfast the next morning was nauseating and could not get the smell out of my nose for 24 hours.
May 23, Saturday, Sighisoara, Romania.
Needed a longer break, so I am staying here. I found a better hotel --- Central Park within a block of Villa Franka, same price and 100 x better. The owner Mihai was extremely helpful and gave me a nice room with full windows and balcony. Booking.com said they were full, but walk-in got me a room (in the morning). I love this hotel. Free parking courtyard, lovely interior patio, very nice helpful staff. For only 65 Euros a night.
Took a short drive through the country side looking at Saxon fortified churches. Very lovely and interesting. Some of the villages esp. off the main road are incredibly poor and the dirt road just peters out in a mud hole. Farming is done with hand made hoes and rakes, horses and old wooden wagons in much of Romania.
I had a salad for lunch at the hotel and then just whiled away the afternoon and evening in the hotel. I needed rest. Great WIFI, did laundry, and slept.
May 24, Sunday, Sighisoara, Romania
Woke up to a nice fresh day. Hotel Breakfast was quite good. Coffee average, even had orange, and eggs and bacon were hot, bread not so good but fresh croissants. Before 9 am, I walked up through the town to the Saxon graveyard to see if there were any names similar to the Mennonites (none, although Reimer is in the list of Saxon names). The town is a lot nicer than I thought. I waited until the church opened at 10 am, well worth the wait. The fellow in charge is half Saxon and was very informative. Nearly all the Saxons (Germans) left. Saxons came from Franconia, their dialect is apparently Luxembourgish. The few Saxons (Sash as they are known here) came starting in the 12th C. in order to defend the borders. They built fortified churches, farms, etc.
There are a number of these "Bradeni" (after the church where about 100 were found) or "Stollen" chests at the church (also called Vorrats Truhen which means hoard/reserve/stash chest/trunk). They were used to store dry goods such as flour, dried fruit, etc. Each family had one in the loft of the church in case they were attacked. They also stored "lard" which was a side of pig in the church and one tower and each family could slice off one week's worth from their "lard" after church each Sunday. The lards were hung on numbered hooks, one per family. The church guide tipped me to the Monastery church where I could hear the Sash dialect, so I went there to wait until 11 am and church was out. The remaining Sash people here --- very well dressed and nice cars came out and indeed spoke their dialect. Wow!. The Sash converted from Catholism to Evangelical Lutheran in 1544. German is commonly spoken here.
Today I met an older couple from Seattle travelling by train through the Balkans.
I had lunch at the Alte Post today --- beer, sausage, and cabbage. I am really enjoying the cabbage. Tomatoes should be good but are disappointing.
May 25, Sibiu, Romania, Exclusive Hotel
I left Sighisoara but could have stayed longer and really enjoyed the Central Park Hotel. I met a nice Canadian family living in Budapest and was invited to stay with them anytime. That would be fabulous as I would like to spend more time there and they are great people.
I drove to Viscri, another Saxon fortified church, very very old. Lots going on there with restorations, and there are actually tour groups, still only about 8-10 people on the site. Mostly Germans seeking roots. My German is coming is so handy here as many Romanians in this area speak German. Prince Charles has a castle in the area and has restored a few houses. These houses are quite different and have a barn attached at the back. None of the other villages have barns with each house, attached or not. In Russia, these were torn down during collectivization as no individual could own livestock.
There is a small museum worth looking at for the organization of the villages and the use of "reconciliation" and "case". Each man had to reconcile accounts with the case. There are a lot of old wooden chests, about 2 feet long, which apparently held all the accounts and possibly the money too. The word case is curious --- I am thinking caisse or cache in French meaning a kind of bank or safe place to keep your money. From http://www.etymonline.com : "receptacle," early 14c., from Anglo-French and Old North French casse (Old French chasse "case, reliquary;" Modern French châsse), from Latin capsa "box, repository" (especially for books), from capere "to take, hold" (see capable).
There was a WC in the village and money to be left on honour system, but a woman with two kids stole the money in front of my eyes 6 feet away. They came running over from a house nearby. I don't think they were the caretakers because I didn't leave the full amount, just loose change, and they didn't demand payment. I am told the government is housing gypsies in these empty villages. I also read the German government paid Romania a bounty of $5,000 per capital for any German in about 1990, and the villages emptied within a year.
After Viscri a long beautiful but tiresome drive across country to Sibiu. Lots more villages and millions more potholes.
Arrived in Sibiu. The Garmin not able to find hotels or streets lately, so it is troublesome to fine my hotel. I stopped at my haven OMV gas station and the young man there went to a lot of trouble to find the hotel on his phone and show me. I then checked Google maps on my computer and then tried the Samsung Maps program which found the hotel in seconds and guided me to it. You just need to be on WIFI to start with (OMV always has good WIFI, good coffee, and nice sandwiches and pastry, plus great staff inside and out. I hope Bucharest is better because the Garmin was finding my hotels fine up to Alba Iulia. I also bought another 7 days vignette as mine was expiring May 25. I have been here a week now.
The Exclusive Hotel in Sibiu is the best one yet in Romania. Almost brand new. Best restaurant, best room, best staff, free parking, great WIF. Faults: sometimes smoke from smokers outdoors and in the bar, but not very bothersome; no BBC on the TV, also okay..
So catch up on Romania. I loved Romania, very interesting country, and would stay another week at least if I didn't have so much more to do. It is a road trip after all, and an overview.
So Transylvania is the most interesting because of the German people who lived there for 800 years and then left in 1990 (500,000 Germans or Saxons as they are called left). They were the ones responsible for any prosperity there. There are 250 villages left empty, with gorgeous fortified churches, and lots of houses and farms. The Romanian government took ownership of everything. Romanians and gypsies have been moved in. Still, there are great larger towns there like Sighisoara my favourite. The hotel was owned by a Canadian-Romanian family --- great people. I had fun looking around the cemetery and standing around after church to listen to the Saxon dialect (no Mennonite names, no plautdeetch), except for the name Reimer and some people were saying things like gundach (good day).
I have also been looking into the Jewish history here in the Balkans. Mostly of course, all dead, but there are synagogues that are museums and give tours and history.
Bucharest was not a great city, all falling down, and museums a mess, mostly closed for renovations. The collections are marvellous and they only show a small amount, but not much English explanation. The art museum is amazing (although the Brukenthal in Sibiu is more interesting). The history museum has an incredible gold horde, and the peasant museum is amazing. The most amazing thing in Bucharest is the Palace of Parliament, the largest office building in the world, and very gorgeous built in the 1980's by the infamous Ceausecu. All marble, they say all the resources of Romania are in that building. I did a tour and the guide was great, provided a lot of extra information.
I found one good restaurant and ate there 3 times --- Romanian live music every night --- free and fantastic, and good Romanian food and of course good wine. Not a word of English, but we managed.
Things seen:
- huge flock of sheep and huge fluffy dirty matted sheep dogs (like a very big English sheep dog) and shepherd with Tyrolian hats- wooden churches with huge wooden steeples
- gypsies here and there in the villages and cities
- log houses are very common, squared off logs
- middle aged fat women with shirt/blouse removed and wearing bra only (due to heat). I remember this from 40 years ago!
- bright red metal roofs replacing old red tile roofs in some areas
- people on the road sides picking ? nettles I think
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I don't know what I'll find in Bulgaria --- not keen on monasteries, but I'll check out Plovdiv --- it has a Roman amphitheatre.
- coffee - terrible everywhere except OMV gas station chain. Even in the luxury hotels. Best bet is an espresso lungo in a bar and hope they have a good machine
- beer - not great. No snacks available when you have a drink. People just drink period. Not unusual to see people drinking at 9 am in cafes. Update: CUIC draft beer is good.
- tourists - I am the only person other than Romanians everywhere I go. Not even German tourists. Update, lots of foreign tourists in Sighisoara though.
- language - very little English spoken. Usually none. Update, met several people who could speak good English and were eager to explain and discuss in Sighisoara. German spoken in Saxon area
- smoking - everywhere even in restaurants and it often seeps into hotel rooms through hallways and ventilation. It's their country and we were there once, but still worth a comment in my review in hopes that they will gradually further restrict smoking on premises or outside windows and ventilation
- WIFI - easy to find in gas stations or even try outside a hotel. Easy to book a hotel somewhere on the road using booking.com. Hotels have WIFI but it's important to verify on booking.com and then also check the comments from reviewers (the non-Balkan travellers) that the WIFI is in the rooms and that it is good
- FX - best to either change money in towns right after the border or look for the BRD bank sign. Euros are sometimes acceptable but change will be in LEI. I write down the exchange rates in a handy place for constant reference (e.g. EU to LEI and vv, CAD to LEI and vv). Also, just before I leave the country, I go to an exchange and change any local currency to next country currency, or change some Euros to next country currency). Small bills will often be an issue and some places are still stubborn about making change even in their own currency, although Romania it's not so much an issue. Be prepared for that though and just be persistent.
- quiet persistence will get you a long way. Any sign of disapproval shuts people down. Speak quietly and a little slowly in very simple English. Act happy, light, and easy going and somewhat low energy. I often got what I wanted after asking a few times in a different way and with a small smile. They are nearly always eager to make you happy so do not be afraid to ask for help or whatever you want. But things change instantly if they think you are not happy. Imagine having to deal with an unhappy tourist speaking loudly and fast in another language even if you are fluent --- very stressful
- language - I always start with a smile and hello. If I know hello in the local language, I use that and hello so they know I speak English
- gas/rest stops - the OMV stations are by far the best. Clean, nice cafe, usually good WIFI, excellent food, coffee, and service
- Garmin - the Garmin GPS is not quite current for the Balkans and I often find new roundabouts or other changes, but it's not usually a problem. The Garmin Text to Voice is not capable of distinguishing numbers, letters, and Roman numerals --- can be confusing at times until I realized that Samantha was actually pronouncing Simeon III as part of the name with eye, eye, eye added on.
Usually invaluable getting in and out of cities and towns, once you make a wrong turn, the Garmin can no longer keep up but I find looking at the tiny map more useful in getting the car back on track once I have made a wrong turn. Also, useful normally plus I use the icon in the top left a lot to make the turns properly and do not make them until you see 0 km on the screen.
Not having much luck finding specific locations such as hotels or streets using it unless the hotel is already listed in the Garmin, but I do eventually find my hotel. I have had to resort to stopped at an OMV in the city outskirts and then using my computer and Samsung phone Maps app, which is like GPS as long as you set up at a WIFI location. Learning to use the add on route function.
- driving speed - it's very important to drive the speed limit and not pass unless allowed (never in a village). The roads are fairly well marked and the Garmin shows the speed limit for the exact area you are in, and there are usually signs. There are police in most towns and they are often out checking for speeders. The oncoming cars and trucks will often blink to signal police ahead
- driving - signs - most signs are international and names spelled out in English or at least in English alphabet but Cyrillic is also common in Bulgaria, so learn a few key letters and become familiar with names of a few towns and cities there
- the roads - roads vary from really good to really terrible but all perfectly fine to drive. Just enjoy the drive and do not be in a hurry. Keep alert at all times for strange things on the road and strange moves from cars and trucks, horses and carts, ducks, sheep, sheepdogs, very suddenly the road changing from 2 to 1 lane, children, old people, wobbly cyclists, huge pot holes, construction without warning, somebody waving a red table tennis paddle, police, ambulances.
Never drive in the dark ever. EVER.
Drivers tend to try to pass, so be prepared to move over a little to accommodate several cars abreast more than the road is designed for. For this reason do not stay abreast of trucks for any longer than necessary to pass (or any other vehicles). Do not drive faster than you feel safe driving
- the road rules are similar to the rest of Europe and the signs are international
- driving style - as in all Europe, stay in the right lane and only move to the passing lane if you are actually passing. Do not feel compelled to pass if you are on a 2-lane highway, but let others pass you, by moving slightly to the left if the car behind you is closing up to pass
- trucks - as everywhere in the world, do not drive beside a truck unless you are passing and have a clear pass. Trucks may have to move over fast and you do not want to be in their path. Trucks pass too, and that can get hairy, so watch them for that. Trucks try to stay at one fixed speed so do not cut them off or they will drive right into you, especially on a hill
- border crossing - you will need passport and the registration for the vehicle. They will take it away and bring it back within 5-10 minutes. Very polite. Little English spoken or understood, but relaxed little smile, quiet voice, polite nods and gestures get you everywhere
- food in hotels - usually not great. The often have processed or low quality food, the breakfast buffet hot food is not kept hot, they have wieners and disgusting scrambled eggs, terrible coffee, no fruit or rotten or dried out fruit. It seems once you are booked in and or they have your cc number, they try to save pennies at your expense.
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