Saturday, May 16, 2015

Balkan Road Trip - Days 3-6 (May 15-19), Slovakia, Budapest & Szeget

Driving:  I left Krakow late on Friday morning, May 15, driving about 400 km. and arriving around 6 pm in Budapest.   I am having no desire to get going early --- I am tired and a little overwhelmed by all the travel detail.  

Using the trust Garmin also known as sat nav. or GPS, it was a easy driving out of Krakow and into Budapest.  Again, I drove directly to my hotel without a problem.   

But there was a strange hitch along the way.   The Garmin directed me on a side trip through tiny country roads --- why --- a short cut, avoiding construction.  It was worrying at the time, as the road was barely a road.   It was 4 pm by then but I reminded myself I was safe as long as I was in my car.

One more problem arose with the car --- a warning light went on, and there were some beeps.  Of course I was very concerned about what to do --- find a service station, phone Peugot.  Finally, this morning I looked up in the manual, but it was in French, and so I translated using my computer online.   It turns out to be tire pressure.  Hope it's not a flat.  Will deal with that when I leave on Monday.   

Before I left Krakow, I had to figure out what funds to exchange to pay my Polish hotel bill, guess what I'd need on the road before the Slovakia border, and change some Euros in florints.  I ended.   Next challenge, getting gas (diesel) in Poland.  Just making the hotel reservation was a big decision, but I think I am getting back to normal.

After the cantor, I walked over to my parking lot with luggage, programmed my Garmin, and took off.   

I filled up the tank just before the Slovakia border and used my credit card.  I saw a Statoil and decided to check it out.  Also had a hot dog and coffee.  I was in kind of stupor --- still tired and overwhelmed I guess.

Slovakia:  The drive through Slovakia was pleasant and the roads are good.  There are no motorways between Krakow and Budapest.   It's 2 lanes nearly all the way, through every village, town, and city, with many many turns, intersections, cross-walks.  The speed limits are low and nobody speeds, not one km over the limit.   The country side is really beautiful, small picturesque villages, snow covered mountains and rolling hills in the distance.   Small towns and farm lands all the way, kind of alpine with lots of log cabin houses, interesting roofs, lots of heritage looking wooden churches, but alas no time to stop, even to eat or gas up.  

Hotel:   My Budapest hotel (Benczur) is not in the centre, but it's okay, and only 60 euros plus 13 euros parking.  I have been walking a lot and it feels great.   Breakfast is okay, and the coffee is much better here in Hungary.

The first evening I was exhausted but walked into the centre to an area with lots of bars.   It didn't work out -- the bar couldn't serve food, so the beer really hit me.   Walked back to the hotel in the dark through a very bad area.   There is no street lighting in Budapest at night.  I ate at the hotel, but that was not great.  I had goulash and the dumplings were raw dough, so they brought me a dessert instead which I did not want.   Fell asleep immediately.   Oh yes, also hit my head pretty hard in the parking lot ducking under the gate.   

The room is really nice, with a little balcony, so next morning, I decided to book 2 more nights on booking.com and got even better rate.  

First on the agenda, find a FX place to change Euros into florints (about 300 florints for on Euro).  Then walked all the walk down to the Parliament Buildings and found the Art Nouveau Museum.   Very nice, had a coffee and sour cherry cake.   Then walked along looking for Art Nouveau.  The Gresham (Mariott) Hotel is outstanding.   Next went to the Museum of Fine Arts.   Outstanding building and exhibits.   The buildings is falling apart and is mostly closed with a small exhibit.  They are renovating it.  The Museum of Fine Arts is also closed for renovations until 2018.   I recommend coming in a few years when all these renovations are finished.   

Today I found a lovely coffee shop and a fabulous restaurant near the hotel.  There isn't much in this area and it is a bit dark to be walking far at night.

The whole city is falling down and have not been maintained since before the war.  The buildings are late 19th C. and up to 1930's.  Lots of them are empty, with broken windows, or a bit of boarding.  Some have rough covered walkways in front for safety of the pedestrians.   Only around the Parliament Buildings, things are glitzy and slick.   I am quite amazed about the state of the city --- it might as well be 1973 when I was last here.   

On the way out of town, I stopped at a gas station and the fellow very cheerfully adjusted the air in my tires with a portable machine.   The warming light was still on but the booklet  indicated some kind of reset was required.   I thought perhaps restarting the car but within a few hours discovered the button for that purpose.   I also played around with the cruise control.   The controls are directly behind the steering wheel and cannot be seen while driving.   

Szeged -- I drove to Szeged, it's not far, with the trusty Garmin.  This is a very lively town.  The Korona hotel was a big surprise and very cheap.  It looks terrible outside but is a gem inside for the price, with a lovely dining room (in the basement of course), and good breakfast and coffee except no fruit.   The location at first glance is awful with a tram running within a few feet, but it's actually right on one of the main squares, and a few blocks from everything.

I had a good walk around, there was a wine festival going on with about 50 of those little cabins in the square, and lots of good food.  The town is in disrepair with the river walk fenced off.   A few terrific Art Nouveau buildings to look at too.  




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